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Tag: Brazil

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By marisalgado94

Universidade Federal de Bahia- UFBA

I have now completed three weeks of classes at the Federal University of Brazil in Bahia and in that short time, I have learned so much about Brazil's education system.  UFBA is just one of Brazil's many different public universities and in Salvador, there are multiple UFBA campuses located in various neighborhoods around the city.  Universities in Brazil are much different from the US because students don't live on campus and each campus is centered around a specific area of study.  For public health, we have been attending the Escola de Enfermagem en Canela (the Nursing school that is located in Canela), but there is also an architecture school, a polytechnic campus, and a music school.  The most interesting thing that I learned about universities in Brazil is that public universities are much better than private ones because of the amount of government support that they receive and because they are better educational institutions, spaces are limited and highly competitive.  How does a student get into the university?

It all starts with what sort of primary education you get.  In Brazil, most public schools are only half day and have two sessions- kids either go in the morning or in the afternoon.  Public schools across the board lack the proper resources, funding, and support from the government, and as a result, a lot of students just get pushed through the system.  Private school on the other hand, provide a top notch education for a price that only those in the highest socioeconomic levels can afford.  At the end of your time in high school, all students who wish to attend the government funded and supported public institutions must take an exam.  The results of the exam determine your acceptance to the public university and as a result, those who are better prepared through private primary and secondary schooling take up the spots in the public universities.

For those who do not gain a spot in the public universities, if they still want to attend college they must pay the extremely high fees and costs that private universities charge.  What's interesting is that the elite in Brazil who can afford to pay for private schooling for 12 years then get to attend universities for very low costs while someone who is from a lower socioeconomic level who wants to further their education has to find a way to pay costly school fees.

This educational system has, for many years, privileged the wealthy and marginalized the poor as private school students funnel into public universities, leaving little space for students who did not have the same type of access to education.  Because social class and race are so intricately woven together in Brazil, a large number of Afro Brazilians who wanted to attend universities were unable to because of their inability to shoulder the financial burden of a private institution.  Some universities saw this as an issue and have for many years instituted quota systems in order to diversify their student bodies while also providing opportunities for hard working students.  On a national level, however, affirmative action laws were only instituted by the Brazilian government in 2012.  Although it is still early to tell, the hope is that this will level the playing field and allow for a new and diverse group of students to be attending universities and create a new generation of leaders in Brazil whose backgrounds are more reflective of the population as a whole.

While education in Brazil has a ways to go, I believe that the tide is turning for the better.  I have enjoyed my time at UFBA.  In the next few weeks, I hope to find ways to get more involved on the campus, find ways to take advantage of academic resources as I begin my research, and make some more Brazilian friends!  Every single day here has been a new adventure and I continue to fall in love with the people, the culture, and slowly but surely improve my Portuguese. Fingers crossed for my first exam tomorrow... espero poder passar!

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By marisalgado94

The theme of my abroad program is Public Health, Race, and Human Rights.  The past three weeks, we have spent a lot of time grappling with the idea of race, of how we identify ourselves, and of how that dictates our interactions with people in Bahia.  One of the biggest challenges that I have had to work through is that in Brazil, race is defined as being phenotypical- people are classified and also choose to identify by the color of their skin.  Brazil is a country where the majority of the population is Black.  Before arriving, I knew that many people were of African descent and that Brazil had the highest concentration of Africans outside of Africa, but I did not know that this group made up a majority of the country- 97 million people to be exact.  In Salvador specifically, 82% of people identify as “not white” according to the most recent census, meaning they either identify as being Preto (Black) or as Pardo (mixed race).

In Brazil, although Afro Brazilians are the majority, discrimination and inequality are prevalent.  Race and social class are extremely intertwined in Brazil and the lower socioeconomic classes are made up predominantly of Afro Brazilians.  Many advances have been made in the fight for equal rights for all Brazilians, but there is still a ways to go.   Because of the connection between race and social class, the lighter your skin is, the more privileged you are perceived to be.  The background of students on my program is extremely diverse: African American, Hispanic, White, Sri Lankan, and Indian.  What we have learned in our 3 weeks here is that our different skin tones have, whether we want them to or not, places us into very specific racial categories here in Brazil.  The racial makeup of Salvador especially has made us all very aware of the color of our skin.  If I am just walking down the street or on the bus, my dark hair and facial features allow me to pass as a Brazilian.  The interesting thing, however, is that because of my lighter complexion, I pass as a white Brazilian.  Being classified by Afro Brazilians into a minority group of elite in Salvador can be a bit weird; my identity in Brazil is no longer tied to being Mexican American like it is in the US, but to having light skin and the privilege that gives me here.

Our academic director, after debriefing our first three weeks here, asked us a question: “Did you come to Brazil to fix something, or did you come to let Brazil shape you?”  The Brazilian concept of race and identity reveals a lot about the history of the country: it shows the legacy that over 350 years of slavery has left, it shows how the Black movement has some uphill battles ahead, and it shows that the stereotypical images that most people have of Brazil- of football, Carnival, and happy people on beaches- is not the reality for the majority of people in Brazil.  In order to get the most out of my time here, I need to set aside my own world view and preconceptions and understand the lenses through which Brazilians, especially Afro Brazilians, see the world.  When I begin my research into health care systems, conduct interviews, and interact with people who have been marginalized in Salvador, I need to be sensitive of how race plays a very real factor in the kind and quality of access to healthcare people have. Instead of being uncomfortable with how Bahianos may initially view me because of my own skin color, I need to allow Bahia and its people to teach me things about myself.  I need to embrace cultural differences and use this time to open my eyes even more to the world around me.  My hope is that through my time in Bahia, I will gain a new understanding of my own identity and be exposed to questions that I have not yet had to wrestle with in the US.  I hope to get a new perspective on the struggles that people who face inequality and racism confront every day.  Brazil still has much to teach me, and I am open to learning.  I am ready to let Brazil shape me in a way that only Brazil can.  Three weeks down, twelve more to go, and I can’t wait for what they have in store.

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By marisalgado94

Two weeks down in Salvador and I have had to learn a lot of new things about the city that is my home for the next 14 weeks.  Salvador is a city full of interesting neighborhoods, music, and people.  In order to be able to check out all the wonderful beaches, historic sites, and oh ya... get to school, taking the bus is an absolute must! While some students on my program are close enough to walk to UFBA (Universidade Federal de Bahia), I'm a bit farther out in the wonderful neighborhood of Alto de Ondina.  Buses in Salvador are great, you just need to know how and when to use them.  A little context to the transportation situation: Salvador is a city of roughly 3 million people and its population is growing, pedestrians don't stick to the sidewalk, cars take up two lanes at a time, and buses swerve in and out of traffic like its nobody's business.  Getting around can seem a bit intimidating, but I promise that if you follow these tips, public transportation in Salvador can actually be really great!

1. Know which bus you need to take and at the bus stop, flag it down!- Each bus has a specific route that it goes and certain stops it passes by.  Because multiple buses pass by the same stop, they won't actually stop unless someone is getting off there or you flag it down.  Its like hailing a cab, step out on the sidewalk, stick your hand out, and get ready to hop on!

2.  Get on the back of the bus- That could sound weird, but that's how most buses work: Get on at the back and pay the cobrador (guy who collects bus fare) and then get off at the front.  Buses can get pretty crowded, especially during rush hour, so it helps keep the flow of traffic on and off the bus moving somewhat smoothly!

3. Have small bills on you for bus fare- Buses around Salvador cost 2.80 reais and if you pay with anything more than 10 reais, the cobrador will probably not be very happy about you taking a lot of his change. I keep a small coin purse on me and anytime I break a bill or get change, I stick the 2 reai bills in it to make sure that I always have some bus money.

4. Know key landmarks around your destination- if you get lost and ask for directions, most people aren't going to give you street names.  They'll tell you to go straight towards the soccer stadium, turn left at the big statue, and right at the market where Maria sells acaraje.  If you can learn some easy landmarks, finding your destination once you get off the bus will be much simpler!

5.  Most importantly, don't be afraid to ask people if you are confused!- Bahianos are typically very friendly and if you ask them which bus you should take or when you should get off, they are happy to help you out.  I have only been here for two weeks and I have definitely already gotten lost, missed my stop, or been on the complete wrong bus.  Stay calm, ask for help, and you will get to your destination just fine.

Good phrases to know:

Este ônibus vai para __________? Does this bus go towards ____________?

Que ponto de ônibus está mais próximo a ___________? Which bus stop is closest to ____________?

Muito obrigado/a por sua ajuda! Thank you very much for your help!

Hope these tips are helpful if you are ever taking the bus in Salvador!

Tchau!

Marissa

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Thoughts on my classes here at my university in São Paulo:

  • No electives, only your designated course path! I'm taking classes from three separate departments, which is shocking to some here.
  • The student-professor relationship is much more casual than anything I've experienced before. In one of my classes, we talked about the idea of considering a professor as part of your extended family or of using familial idioms in your conception of a professor, and whether or not it was problematic to call a professor "tia," for example. All of this went under the assumption that if not "tia," your professor was called by their first name. The idea of calling your professor by their last name was, as discussed in the class, shocking and counterproductive to the pursuit of collective learning.
  • Some of the Brazilian students straight up read magazines or talk on the phone in one of my classes. In the other two, if you don't do the readings beforehand, you will be singled out and probably mocked. (Kidding. Just shunned.)
  • Brasil speaks (very) frankly about its colonial history and about the fact that it was a colonizing power/a colonized country, and that the ruling class or powerful group remains rooted in this "colonizador," as it's called here. I can honestly not imagine any university course in the States speaking so frankly about the United States as a colonized space; obviously, the colonial history is different here than in the U.S., especially in the fact that the US was colonized by families seeking a new home and Brasil by single men seeking to exploit resources, but both were--and remain--countries that were built from colonized areas.
  • Brazilian students have a nice system set up in which a few people are assigned the reading each week and they are the ones who present or participate in discussions, leaving me and the rest of the class to nod along in implicit agreement.
  • People do not, in general, like the U.S.'s economic or political strategies, except for the odd neoliberal thrown in there, but they very genuinely view the U.S. as the pinnacle of social and economic development and liberty. For example, during Ferguson--which was widely publicized here, as well as globally, for a few days--two of my three professor and my host mom said to me, "I saw a black person died in the United States. Black people die here all the time." That is, verbatim, what my anthropology professor said. I was unsure of how to respond, or of how to address that depth of a misconception. Issues like racism can be compared between here and there, because certainly racism exists in both places, but, equally certainly, it takes a different form; racism in these two locations cannot, however, be stacked against each other or measured on a scale. It just won't work.
  • A smoke break is taken quite literally. The professor and the students go into the hallway to smoke a cigarette, then go downstairs for a coffee, then back up to smoke another one. I repeat, in the hallway.

Overall, my university here is an incredibly liberal and progressive space, and I am learning so much about how Brazilians view themselves, the global sphere and community, and the United States. I am also learning exactly how much time it takes my sociology professor to smoke two cigarettes. I'm hoping that what I take back with me from these classes (including this aforementioned tidbit) is relevant to what I continue to study, but even if not? Everything I'm learning here is awesome.

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By marisalgado94

Happy Brazilian Independence Day!

Although, funny enough most Brazilians are sad that the holiday falls on a Sunday… they love holidays during the week because then, they have work off!

Anyways, I have arrived in Salvador, Brazil and the past 7 days have been an absolute whirlwind.  From missing a plane in São Paulo and almost losing my luggage, to arriving at a hostel run by nuns and meeting the 20 other students on my program, and finally, to moving in with my host family in the neighborhood of Alto de Ondina, I have had ups and downs.

One of the biggest challenges I have faced so far is that I do not speak any Portuguese.  I grew up learning Spanish and that has helped me to understand a lot of what people are saying.  When it comes to trying to respond, however, every sentence is a struggle that sometimes I win and sometimes I don’t.  The best part is that most people are very understanding and willing to listen to my Spanliguese (Spanish, English, and Portuguese).  I have gotten very good at saying thank you, “obridaga” and please speak more slowly, “por favor fala mais devaghar”!

One of the best experiences I have had so far was when we were sent out in groups of 4, told to take the bus to a certain location, and conduct interviews with locals.  At first, the thought of using a public transportation system that we didn’t know and having to communicate with people when we didn’t speak the language made everyone a bit nervous.  After having the opportunity to explore the Rio Vermelho, our drop off site, we all became much more comfortable navigating the city and practicing our Portuguese.

This first week in Salvador has been full of adventure and I couldn’t be happier.  Isn’t that one of the reasons to travel abroad? To immerse yourself completely in a new culture and learn and experience all the country has to teach you?  This semester won’t be easy, but I know that in the end, it will all be worth it.  I cannot wait to continue learning Portuguese, start digging into my research project (topic to be decided!) and continue to get to know my host family.  Here’s to 15 more weeks in Bahia!

Tchau!

Marissa

 

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On September 3, I will have been in São Paulo, Brazil, for two months; August 28 marked 8 weeks--measure it however you want. I've been in classes for four weeks now, and the four weeks prior were for my Portuguese classes. It feels simultaneously like I've been here for ages, and like I just arrived yesterday. Some background on my time here: I'm here with the CIEE Liberal Arts program, which included a month-long summer session with intensive Language and Culture classes; since the beginning of August, I've been an exchange student in PUC, a private/Catholic university here in São Paulo. I'm living with a host family, although in my case, it's just one woman. She lives in a nice, residential neighborhood about a 30 minute walk from my school. Since classes started, that has been my main focus--I've been fully immersed in Brazilian home and academic culture. The overwhelming sensation since I've been here, that only grows stronger with time, is one of not being a visitor, but of truly living here.

This has its pros and its cons. At the beginning, I was very good about getting out and "experiencing" the city; I went to museums, I walked around neighborhoods, I did the suggested cultural activities that CIEE planned (they are, by the way, incredible about this). Recently, however, I had a crisis--I was not being cultural enough. I was not looking at art, going out to eat, exploring new neighborhoods, what have you. I sat down and I planned itineraries for myself of places I wanted to go, see, do--and have proceeded to do exactly none of them.

I had to think a lot about this, though. I came to Brazil to learn about Brazilian culture and, specifically, to understand the concept of development and community service in Brazil. My concentration in my International Affairs major is International Development and I study Anthropology as well, so here, I'm interested in understanding the work done by NGOs and non-profits in a range of contexts and the role that these play in the lives of Brazilians. In a broader sense, I want to understand the culture of Brazil, in all of its forms and manifestations. I thought that all of that looking at art, going out to eat, exploring new neighborhoods, and, especially, volunteering would be the way to go about this. Instead, I'm finding this to be an exercise in what culture is and where it manifests itself. It is immensely challenging for me, this new approach.

For example, even though I'm here very specifically to have a wide range of community service experiences, I have not started volunteering. But, as my friend pointed out, there is a cultural explanation for this. As opposed to the United States, where the basic unit of everything functional and cultural is the individual, the basic cultural unit here is the personal. It's a difficult concept to explain, but certain things form the base of Brazilian culture here, and none of them is the autonomous individual--instead, social ties form the base of Brazilian culture. All of this is to say, I have not started volunteering because even though people really care about the work that they do with their organizations, finding me, individually, a volunteer spot is not a priority; in other words, it's not about me, because Brazilian culture revolves around something bigger than an individual.

In this absence of volunteering, I've been spending my time doing other things that are also cultural at only more than a first glance. The three classes I'm taking here at my university--which is phenomenal, a very progressive and community-based space--have been incredible: The Sociology and Society of Brazil; Interamerican Politics; and Identities, Culture, and Tourism. My host mom is incredible, and has been so welcoming of me into her home and her extended family, allowing me to tag along to birthday parties, family dinners, soccer-game-viewings, everything. The food is incredible; although I rarely go out to eat in a formal sense of the word, food is everywhere and always very, very good. The bars are incredible--possibly because Brazil is so social, nightlife is very important and very central to the social life as a whole. The beach town that I went to in early August was incredible. The graffiti is incredible. And all of it, even if I have to think about it long and hard, is, in fact, cultural. The challenge, for me, lies in not becoming passive, not letting my time here slide by; I need to start volunteering and I do need to go look at art, walk around, all of that, but I also need to make sure that I'm really thinking about everything and understanding the culture that surrounds me every day.

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By juliaraewagner

It has been a little maddening to operate in a city where I do not speak the language. I've been able to get along fine with English and the Spanish that I know, but I would like to attest to the fact that Portuguese is not simply "Spanish with a Brazilian accent" as the Argentines often say.  It is always a bit sad to hear someone address you and not have the slightest idea of how to respond.

My friends have been great at teaching me some survival Portuguese. I can greet people and ask for general directions. I am okay at ordering simple things in restaurants, but its still interesting when the waiters start asking for difficult orders. At any rate, its a work in progress, as learning a language always is.

I've been interested to learn some new words in Brazilian Portuguese because its such a rich language with so many influences. My favorite word thus far has been saudades which has no translation into English, but roughly means the pleasant nostalgia one feels for past experiences or people. It can even refer to such things that have not yet occurred. My friends introduced the word to me when we were saying our goodbyes at the close of fall semester, but also used it to describe their excitement at the prsopect of me visiting in the next few months. Either way, its that warm, fuzzy feeling in the pit of your stomach that makes you want to jump around in excitment.

I think saudades is a perfect way of encapsulating how I feel about this past year abroad. I've had so many wonderful experiences and met so many special people, that thinking about any of them will always incite the warm, longing feeling of saudades. I will always have a sense of nostalgia for this year. One of the most important things I've learned, however, is that these experiences and lessons do not have to simply remain in the past as a memory. I can incorporate them into my daily life and allow them to live into the present and future. Just like saudades, the good feelings do not need to stop in the past, but can continue into the future.

As I visit my friends and new places around the world, I look forward to carrying these memories with me and making new memories in the future. Cheers to travel!

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By juliaraewagner

On my way home from Buenos Aires, I decided to take one last stop in South America before heading back up North to start the summer. I made some amazing Brazilian friends during my semester abroad with GW Latin America, so I decided to visit them in their home city of Sao Paulo.

I arrived at the airport at 1AM, but the city I encountered was still bustling with life. My friends picked me up, ushered me into their car, and said, "get ready, we're going out!" I was impressed immediately by the city's enormity and vastness; everything  is so big and spread apart. I was also bamboozled by the winding streets and relieved to have my Paulista friends to lead me around.

My first night in Sao Paulo was comprised of drinks and tamaki, a japanese dish much like sushi, but bigger and better. Tamaki generally includes raw fish, rice, and a topping all wrapped up in a large cone-shaped cup of seaweed--resembling a sushi snow cone. It was developed by the enormous Japanese population that immigrated here in the last century, and still thrives in the Japanese neighborhood of Liberdade. Tamaki, however, is popular all over the city, and enjoyed by all as a typical Paulista dish.

Where some cities are known for their beaches and others for their monuments or arts, Sao Paulo is known for its food. Ever since my arrival, I've done nothing but eat my way through the city.

The next morning, I met my friends parents, who took us out for a typical Paulista Sunday specialty: feijoada. Feijoada is a dish from colonial times comprised of beef and pork stewed black beans accompanied with other cuts of pork and garlic sauted greens all over rice. A former vegetarian and bean enthusiast, my mouth was watering as I dug into this delicious dish. My friend asked if I needed anything changed, reminding me of the tradition of "jeitinho brasileiro" or "the Brazilian way," which involves accomadating to a guest's needs. Of course, changes in the dish were wholly unnecessary as I couldn't imagine altering such a tasty dish.

My foodie adventures took me to a delicious pizzeria, which only serves pizza made with tomato sauce imported from Italy. There I also tried a typical Brazilian dessert known as Petit Gateau, which consists of a soft chocolate cake filled with gooey chocolate sauce or dulce de leche and accompanied by a scoop of creamy vanilla ice cream. I asked my friends why it carried the french name, and they had no idea. Since that night though, I've seen Petit Gateau featured on almost every restaurant menu.

Aside from food, I've had the most amazing coffee I've ever had in my life. My friend took me to her favorite coffee shop, where we spent an hour reading up on all of their featured blends before ordering. I decided to go with one of their "coffee experiments," in which I was tasked with investigating how drinking coffee with cheese or chocolate can change its taste. I took a sip of the delicious coffee they had brewed and tried a bit of chocolate before taking a second sip. To my surprise, the second sip had a completely different taste. I felt a similar sensation when I tried the experiement over with the cheese. I'm not sure that Starbucks coffee would necessarily warrant the same reaction.

Since my arrival less than a week ago, I've gone out to eat more amazing meals including delicious chinese, hamburgers, sushi, and more bowls of gelato than I can count. I didn't expect my stay in Sao Paulo to be a foodie's dream, but I'm glad I'm here!

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By haleymb

After three months of waiting and watching friends begin their semesters both at GW and abroad, my time has finally come. Ola, Brazil! In my brief day and half in Brazil plus my 28 hours of travel time, I have had quite the experience. My first shock came at the Orlando airport; when waiting in line at the TAM Airlines counter, everyone was speaking Portuguese. I hadn't thought this through when imagining my trip in the past weeks, and with only a few words of Portuguese under my belt, I was completely caught off guard and incredibly scared when this happened. I called my mom, questioning my ability to go through the program. I finally arrived in Salvador and met the others on my program. Everyone was so kind and joyful, my fears immediately melted away...literally - the bright sun and humidity immediately brought pools of sweat to my skin.

On Sunday evening, I meet and move in with my host family. My extremely limited Portuguese and American culture makes me nervous, yet excited to embrace a new way of life. Beyond living with a new family who I cannot communicate with, I have a lot of adjusting to do, including being more cautious about my surroundings and health issues (i.e. tap water, purchasing more bug spray, etc.). I'm looking forward to beginning Portuguese classes so that I can communicate more smoothly.

The beauty and size of the city took my breath as soon as I left the airport. Bright colors, tropical plants, music, and animals flow through the streets. At the beach today, we danced to the samba music playing loudly from the restaurants. How amazing is it that unlike the US beaches that play the same music to try to make it feel more tropical, this is truly the culture here? All of these things give me confidence and excitement to overcome the challenges that I know I will face next week when orientation ends and I actually have to move about the city on my own.

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By mfretes93

Unfortunately, the clock is ticking down on my time in Rio de Janeiro. As of right now, I've got just under two weeks left in the cidade maravilhosa, which means that I've been spending a lot of time thinking: about the friendships I've made, about the experiences I've had, about how I've grown and changed as a person, generally just about a lot of sappy stuff.

But I've also realized one thing: short as it may be, two weeks is still precious, precious time, which means I shouldn't be wasting it thinking about the past or being nervous about the future. Instead, I should be trying to make the best out of the little time I have left.

So what's the best way to go about that? With a bucket list, obviously.

The idea of a bucket list might seem inherently depressing, but I've found that it will allow me to spend my last few weeks in Rio in the best way that I can. It's a comprehensive list of all the sights I still need to see, all the neighborhoods I still need to visit, all the cultural events I still need to attend. It's a list of all the touristy things I still need to do, all of the typically "Brazilian" things I still need to try out. And of course, it also includes things I still need to buy, all the food I still need to eat, and the (cheap) restaurants I still need to visit.

If it seems like a lot, it's because it is. But now, instead of feeling sad about my dwindling time, I'm excited and ready. I'm making goals for everyday: today I'll do this, tomorrow I'll try that. And now, instead of thinking about how much I'm gonna miss this city, I'm thinking about all the great things I'm going to do during my last two weeks.

See, it's important, when your study abroad time is coming to a close, to sit back and think about your experience as a whole. It can be easy, during this time, to feel sad. After all, you're gonna miss your friends. You're going to miss your host country, miss all the people you'e met. And it can be easy to get scared of what lies ahead: readjusting to American society, going back to school for the first time in months. And of course, it can also be easy to suddenly get excited to see the friends and family you've missed during your semester abroad.

But getting caught up in those feelings means that your last few days are not being spent to their fullest. And when you actually do leave, you'll think about everything that could've been.

A bucket list lets you have all of that on paper. But more than that, it gets your mind off of all the emotions you can be feeling towards the end of your semester. Instead of dwelling on the faraway past or the faraway future, you have concrete plans for the present, things to occupy your mind. Plus, even if you don't get to finish everything--and let's be real, it's almost impossible to do everything you want to do when you're studying abroad--you'll have less regrets when you finally hop on your plane back to America.

As for my bucket list, it includes such things as: buying a pair of havaianas, visiting secret beaches in Barra da Tijuca, seeing a play at the Teatro Municipal, visiting museums, and of course, going up Corcovado Mountain to see the world-famous Christ the Redeemer statue.

Yes, I saved the best for last. What's on yours?

TWEET: I made my bucket list. Are you ready to make yours? #GWU #GWAbroad

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