Jordan – Page 7 – GW Blogs from Abroad

All Mansaf Everything

AdminJanuary 30, 2014

Fortunately, but unintentionally, I spent this weekend literally swimming in mansaf. Okay not literally swimming, but you know, it was pretty close.

What is mansaf, you ask? It's a traditional cuisine that Jordanians proudly consider their national dish. While styles of mansaf vary from region to region, it is generally a big ol' plate with a base of flatbread, topped with large-grain rice, sometimes mixed with almonds or pine nuts, which serves as a nest for the most important part--the meat, which is usually lamb or chicken. This mountain of meaty goodness is then doused in a fermented yogurt sauce that is far more delicious than it sounds. Because it is slow-cooked in broth, the meat is ultra tender and slides right off the bone, which come in handy, because traditionally it is eaten without utensils (Get it? Handy. Did you see what I did there?) The name of the dish comes from the Arabic word that literally (actually literally) means "large dish" or "large tray."

The meal is served on special occasions like weddings or birthdays, or in my case to honor guests. This weekend, the members of my program (Diplomacy and Policy Studies) was invited to our director's hometown of Ajloun to tour an ancient castle there, tour her old school, and attempt to play soccer against some of her family members, who also served us mansaf. The following day I was lucky enough to have the opportunity to volunteer at a local primary school. Some other CIEE participants and I helped to repair the wall surrounding the school and spruced up the faded exterior with some bright yellow, blue and green paint. At the end of the end, we were served mansaf in appreciation for our work. Yesterday, my Arabic professor, excited to spread an important part of his Bedouin culture, came to our apartment building and cooked mansaf for our class. The latter was served in a more traditional fashion, with the cooked head of the lamb placed in the center of the dish, jaw open and tongue out. Many were peer pressured into eating eyeballs, brains, lips, tongues. Unfortunately, there wasn't enough to go around for me. Darn.

Mansaf is a part of this culture you definitely need to experience before leaving, but this advice goes without saying because it is--wait for it--literally impossible to be a guest here without being offered mansaf at least once before leaving.

Water issues and UmQais

AdminNovember 18, 2013December 17, 2018

A view of The Sea of Galilee (Lake Tiberius) and Golan Heights from the Um Qais Jordanian military outpost.

I knew it was going to be a great day when one of our coordinators began doling out falafel sandwiches as I sat down having barely got dressed in time to make it to the bus, let alone find food. I wolfed two sandwiches and dozed off with the rest of the bus for the two-hour trip north to the Sharhabil Bin Hasna Eco-Park. When I awoke we were on a dirt road, surrounded by as much greenery as I'd witnessed since my expedition to the Ma'in hot springs; olive orchards spanned the clearings on either side of the road, which was lined with some other type of tree that I didn't recognize, but whose color was just as refreshing to see. A few minutes later we arrived at our destination, which is the home of an organization call Friends of the Earth Middle East (FoEME). There a representative of the organization briefed us on the issue of water shortages in Jordan, which I was aware of but had not spent much time pondering.

It's easy to get wrapped up in the controversial issues in America--balancing the budget, finding an adequate health care system, debating gun laws and immigration reform are all important issues whose political outcomes will impact thousands, if not millions of Americans. But as I sat in a classroom in the woods discussing strategies to find a sustainable source of water in Jordan, these issues seemed relatively inconsequential. The most concerning thing was that this isn't even a front-running issue. Jordan is forced to ration its water supply at 145 cubic meters per person per year, which is 355 less than the UN standard to be considered to have an "absolute scarcity" of water, and sources of freshwater are shrinking. This in itself is alarming. Now consider how the depth of this problem is compounded by the presence of even more publicized issues such as youth unemployment, refugees, poverty, and public and private sector corruption. So not only do activists have to focus on solving what is clearly an urgent problem, they also have to find a way to spread awareness and lobby for government cooperation. However, Jordanians are a driven people, and I look forward to witnessing the evolution of the kingdom as it tackles all of these issues.

The day ended with a sunset tour of a nearby ancient Roman city first built by Alexander the Great called UmQais, which had a spectacular view of the Sea of Galilee and the Golan Heights. If only I could find a way to continue this lifestyle of knowledge, adventure, and falafel when I return...

Islamic New Year

AdminNovember 16, 2013December 14, 2018

By nlgyon

Happy New Year, everyone! You might be thinking, "Nick, what are you talking about? Don't you know it's only November?" Indeed. But yesterday marked the celebration of the Islamic New Year, or the Hijri New Year. This holiday signifies the beginning of the Islamic calendar, which started in 610 AD, when the Prophet Muhammad emigrated from Mecca to Medina, a journey known as the Hijra, hence the term "Hijri New Year." The first day of the first month of the New Year varies from country to country; some calculate it based on local moon sightings, and others rely on astronomical calculations.

While of little significance to a non-Muslim such as myself, I was happy to hear the Prime Minister announce that Thursday, November 7 was an official holiday. I decided to take the long weekend to chill out at home and work on some long-term projects/job searching. As far as I could tell, there weren't any huge public celebrations like there are for the common new year; it seemed like more of a family-oriented holiday, celebrated by attending mosque and perhaps having guests. There were, of course, fireworks. As often as I hear fireworks, I imagine the complement every holiday or celebration. At least I hope they're fireworks.

I'm sorry I don't have any adventures for you this week; they will resume in a few weeks as I reemerge from a deluge of midterm exams, presentations, response papers, case studies, and scholarship applications...

Research continues

AdminNovember 11, 2013December 14, 2018

By nharnish

As the Semester keeps going my research has expanded and taken a new form in Jordan. The past month has been a real eye opener for my topic and the route I want to take with this research.

My original research topic was directed towards the Jordan river and how Jordan utilizes it with its water scarcity issues. However, after some travel and eye opening interviews I've decided to tweak it. I spent my october break seeing the other side of the Jordan River Valley, the West Bank and Israel. Apart from an amazing adventure and great scenery, the experience was crucial fro my research and offered a lot of knowledge. I was astonished a the differences 50 kilometers could make. Not only is the West Bank and Israel much greener, but they actually have still bodies of water int he landscape! I spent a lot of time looking and asking questions about the water issues and Israel and the West bank, and the outlook look a lot better then Jordan to say the least. Israel's direct access to the Tiberius River, and their three very successful sanitization projects contribute a lot to this. The West bank is a different story, they rely on a quota from Israel for their water, and underground reserves as well. Even so, their farming capacity and water availability still outstrip Jordan's.

After witnessing and learning about Jordan's neighbors, I've decided to look more at the relationship between Jordan and Israel over the water within the region. With this in mind, my most important source will be the peace treaty between the two nations. After a first glance, the treaty calls for an annual tribute of 50 cubic meters of water to be given to Jordan from Israel's supplies. However, many of my sources have told me that in times of stress between the two nations Israel has been known to give Jordan 50 cubic meters of sewage water, as the treaty does no specify the quality of the water or its source. Aspects like these are worth looking into, and I will explore them further as my research develops.

With my question in mind, I will spend the next month visiting popular water and development sites while I continue to work with the Ministry of Water and Irrigation while I intern with the USAID. My internship is my best door to find potential and valuable sources for the research, and I've already lined up some great interviews. This saturday I will be visiting the Northern Border facilities for a water conference, which I'm hoping will shed some valuable light on the subject.

For now, my main question are as followed:

What is the future of the water treaty between the two nations? How will water politics influence the future of Israeli and Jordanian relations? and lastly, can Israel be a key player in heling Jordan overcome it's water scarcity issues?

Home

AdminOctober 31, 2013

I usually only go back home one time before the end of the semester (for Thanksgiving). When it comes time to depart from Union Station for my home in the hills, I always look forward to it. I'm excited to return to family, friends, pets, the house I grew up in, and the restaurants that I never really appreciated until I left. We all know the feeling of comfort that accompanies familiarity. Conversely, at the end of long holidays, I'm always ready to go back to DC. I'm excited to return again to my other friends, classes, parties, nightlife, etc. But my desire to return to these two places has never been uncomfortably strong.

However, this past week was the first time I really experienced homesickness. I think a combination of missing both of these homes, in addition to missing creature comforts (like bacon, fresh milk, public transit, burgers, clean streets, English proficiency, good beer, etc...) really just got to me. I kind of just laid in bed, thinking about how great it was going to be to see all my favorite people and places again. Focusing on this made anything else just seem gray.

But after a wasted day filled with a disgusting amount of sleeping, lounging, and Facebook, I just got tired of being homesick; I came to the realization that there's no way I'm going to do everything that I want to do before I leave here, and I'll most likely leave wishing I could come back to experience this that or the other thing. And while I still miss all those things back in the states, I've stopped thinking about it so much. Constantly comparing things to their counterparts "back home" gets you in this terrible state of mind where you fail to fully appreciate what's in front of you. So while I'm still looking forward to my homecoming experience, I've stopped looking ahead to it. That is. I've been focusing on where and when I am right now, and no more, and that has been much more enjoyable.

New friends and new places

AdminOctober 21, 2013

A view of the Old City of Jerusalem from the rooftop quarters of the Citadel Youth Hostel

What a whirlwind of a week. I visited Ramallah, Bethlehem, Jerusalem, and Tel Aviv. I climbed the Mount of Temptation, visited ruins of the oldest city in the world, visited the tomb of Yasser Arafat, slept on a rooftop overlooking the Dome of the Rock, woke up to church bells and calls to prayer, touched the Wailing Wall, visited the birthplace of Jesus Christ, and walked the road to where He was crucified and buried. I toured a Palestinian refugee camp and witnessed works by the mysterious street artist, Banksy. I sat in the Mount of Olives and watched the sun set over the Old City, and swam in the Mediterranean. All of these events made for an incredibly surreal week. If you ever study abroad in the Levant or find yourself in the area, these are all things you should be sure to experience. Any further description wouldn't do these attractions justice, though, and if you're interested there Wikipedia articles and travel guides that will tell you anything I could about all of these attractions.

However, what you can't learn on Wikipedia is what you can learn from others. I've always loved making new friends and learning from their life experiences and perspectives, and so far it seems like travel allows you to find new and different experiences and perspectives.

One of the most interesting lessons I learned was from a French girl named Clem. When I met Clem she had just arrived in Jerusalem from New Zealand, where she had spent a few months working and learning English. In our first conversation with her, my friends and I were prone to asking questions like, “What are you doing in Jerusalem?” “How long are you staying?” “What are your plans today?” “What are your plans tomorrow?” “Where are you going after this?” She had come to Jerusalem because she wanted to, and tomorrow she would wake up and do whatever she felt like, and would continue doing that until she wanted to go somewhere else. And then she would do that. It was hard for me to wrap my head around these answers, but it really shouldn't be. Every human lives to be happy, and she's doing exactly what makes her happy. I've always had a plan, and I like it that way. But I had never really considered what else I could be doing, and meeting someone so carefree was really refreshing.

The Wall

AdminOctober 13, 2013

Street art in Aida Camp depicts the community's plight.

As a few friends and I walked strolled past the separation wall in Bethlehem, a voice called at us from across the street. A middle aged Palestinian man was standing in the lot of an old gas station, and the credentials around his neck revealed that he was a tour guide at the Church of the Nativity, where we had just been an hour before. He must have recognized us.

"What do you see in the wall?" he asked.

Confused, I said "The art? Or the wall itself?"

"How do you feel about it being there?"

"Disappointment. Frustration. But I'm not Palestinian, so--"

"We are like caged animals. It is like a prison," he said.

I'm kind of glad he interrupted me, because wasn't really sure what I was going to say. I'm disappointed that such a blatant restriction to freedom exists, that trepidation persists despite all the diplomatic processes put in place to create justice in a tumultuous region. I'm frustrated at my basic understanding of the issue, and even less about what I can do to contribute to the peace process.

As I walked along the separation wall today, I saw graffiti reflecting an air of oppression and the need for drastic change, which was reflected in the words of the locals I spoke to as well. I felt like as a GW student I was supposed to respond with what the worlds' leaders should do about it. I'm still working on that response, but the road to a deep understanding of complex international issue is long. But there's only one way to complete long journeys-- step by step. And after today I'm one step closer.

Settling In

AdminOctober 6, 2013December 14, 2018

By nlgyon

For adventurers like me, the first few days in a new place are exciting, and the newer the place, the longer it stays exciting. I think recently thoughI've reached a turning point where the excitement that accompanies the unknown is starting to wear off, and what shows through this fading layer of excitement are the inevitable lows that make up a real, whole experience. I'm sliding into a routine, which is good for productivity, but makes for a pretty forgettable, boring experience. I've started to use English more readily just because sometimes it's easier for all parties involved in the interaction, which in the end just makes me feel like I'm wasting my time, and that I'm failing to meet my biggest goal. Finally, I'm starting to really miss some things about home (good milk, unlimited fast internet, proximity to grocery stores and restaurants, and more), and even more importantly I'm really starting to miss some people. Life abroad isn't a vacation--you still have good days and bad days.

A lot of times you'll talk to someone that has studied abroad and of course their trip was so awesome, they loved it, etc. People give these types of answers partially out of convenience, because it's impossible to accurately sum up 16 weeks in a small conversation, but also because no one really wants to hear anything negative. It puts them in an uncomfortable position; the listener for some reason feels obliged to comfort someone when they hear they had a negative experience, and feels bad that they had to experience it.

Despite sliding into some of these not-so-amazing parts of studying abroad, I know that they are good for me in the long run because they're not permanent downsides of life--they'll just take some gumption or a change in perspective to overcome. Breaking my routine will help me learn to be more spontaneous. Becoming more persistent in my Arabic usage will yield much better language skills. Letting go of creature comforts will help me be less materialistic and focus on the important things, like friends and family. I don't think I'll stop missing them, but in the end missing them will be a positive experience because of the appreciation I'll have gained for them. I'll leave you with one of my favorite quotes that expresses a very important but very overlooked idea:

"I actually attack the concept of happiness. The idea that - I don’t mind people being happy - but the idea that everything we do is part of the pursuit of happiness seems to me a really dangerous idea and has led to a contemporary disease in Western society, which is fear of sadness. It’s a really odd thing that we’re now seeing people saying “write down 3 things that made you happy today before you go to sleep”, and “cheer up” and “happiness is our birthright” and so on. We’re kind of teaching our kids that happiness is the default position - it’s rubbish. Wholeness is what we ought to be striving for and part of that is sadness, disappointment, frustration, failure; all of those things which make us who we are. Happiness and victory and fulfillment are nice little things that also happen to us, but they don’t teach us much. Everyone says we grow through pain and then as soon as they experience pain they say “Quick! Move on! Cheer up!” I’d like just for a year to have a moratorium on the word “happiness” and to replace it with the word “wholeness”. Ask yourself “is this contributing to my wholeness?” and if you’re having a bad day, it is."

-Hugh Mackay

New states of mind

AdminOctober 1, 2013December 14, 2018

By nlgyon

In the absence of any great adventures, I'd like to describe a useful “skill” I'm acquiring that I think will continue to make my life easier when I return. As a student, you're forced to have decent time management skills. Ensuring that I finish my homework, internalize class material, go to work, maintain my social life and organizational responsibilities, and remember to feed myself takes a bit of foresight. But I slumped into a routine of having a plan in my head of exactly how my day will go. And it usually went that way; when it didn't, I was bothered.

But since I've been in Amman I've learned to let that go a little bit. There are so many more variables here I don't have control over. For example, there are some times on some days you can't count on getting a cab to certain parts of the city. Living outside of a well-organized grid with everything labeled on Google Maps turns finding simple goods and services into adventures, filled with attempts to communicate my needs to locals, and struggling to understand their directions. Without Whole Foods and a billion other restaurants right around the corner to cater to any cuisine my palette desires at mealtime, meals have become less like social events, and generally don't take up much time. It's such an effort to take a taxi to the store for weekly groceries and load up as much as my arms can carry, or walk a mile to the nearest restaurant, I'm happy just to still have something edible in the refrigerator. Even in the realm of leisure, I realize I slid into a routine. Here I have been busy exploring everything this country has to offer. These are just a few examples.

I think practicing this on-the-fly style of time management will be healthy for me when I get back. It has forced me to keep my eyes open and my mind on what opportunities are open to me considering my circumstances.

Adventure and Existentialism in Petra

AdminSeptember 24, 2013

My friend Stephen feels the freedom of an open desert at night.

A view of the deserts and mountains of Ma'an

The Nabataean monastery sits atop one of the highest hills in Petra

While I did a lot of cool things this weekend—camel riding in Wadi Rum, sleeping in a Bedouin camp, romping around the desert, exploring the ancient city of Petra—I really only brought one significant thought from it, one experience for which “cool” is an inaccurate understatement of its reality. It was a weird convergence of realizations that led to a state of mind I've never really been in before.

After walking through an expansive, once-thriving, long-dead city, wealthy enough to support a population of 20,000 people in the middle of the desert, with complex architecture and intricate water conduit system, I climbed to one of its highest points, where the monastery is located. I stared at the building's huge facade, in awe at its sheer size, but more so at the people it stood to commemorate. Then I hiked over the peak of the mountain to overlook the sublime scene of the surrounding rift valley, and for the first time in a long time felt completely insignificant. Like the strong breeze that had just kicked up could blow me away like a grain of sand without remorse.

But at the same time I looked at the people around me--American, Jordanian, British, Italian, and others—and felt a sense of connectedness to them and the world around me. But standing with them in the face of the universe we looked out upon, I felt very at home in this pile of insignificant grains of sand, who, despite wildly contrasting lifestyles and cultures, really have a lot in common. I felt free and happy to be even the smallest part of something so sublime.