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By numzzz123

This semester, I chose to study at AMIDEAST in Amman, Jordan. I chose this program because it offered courses related to both of my majors (Economics and International Affairs). This past summer, I interned in Cairo as a research assistant at the Center for Migration and Refugee Studies at The American University in Cairo. Since this semester would not be my first time in the Middle East, I had a clearer picture of what I wanted to accomplish during my time abroad. For me, a semester abroad was definitely not a trip to just have fun and travel. It was an extremely career oriented journey, and that’s why I made a comprehensive list of goals before I left America. With my experience in Egypt this past summer, I realized the importance of using my voice to spread a message, especially since we have the capability and resources to reach large audiences in the West. My plan was to utilize contacts and create a network so that I could find an internship in Amman that would give me the hard skills I needed in my field. Through this work opportunity, I hoped to discover ways in which I could go one step further than just volunteering, by doing some sort of research. With the current refugee crisis in Jordan, working with an organization that deals with refugees is something I have a keen interest in. One thing I constantly heard about study abroad from those who have done it before is that the semester flies by. To avoid a shock at the end of the semester, I drew out a timeline in my agenda with smaller target goals for each month. It is a great way to help me keep track of my journey and make sure that I am on track.

When I emerge from the Middle East, I want to have a clear explanation of what kind of volunteer/research I did, how it left an impact, why it’s important, and what the next step is. This volunteer work is going to be as much for my own understanding, knowledge, and learning as it is for my desire to somehow give a positive contribution to a community.

By Dominique Bonessi

With my first week of classes finished, I can now start my weekly routine.  The Middlebury Language Program at the University of Jordan is quite intense.  Sunday to Wednesday—because the work week starts on Sunday—I have three classes a day.  The best part about this program—if you are a real Arabic nerd—is the language pledge which helps you and your classmates maintain speaking Arabic to each other the entire semester.  Therefore, classes are taught entirely in Arabic with several pages of glossaries to be of assistance.  This program is not for the faint-of-heart and I suggest if you are serious about learning Arabic or any language that you strongly consider Middlebury Colleges in Vermont or any of their programs around the globe.  Their approach is that you will learn more speaking and interacting on a daily basis with the language if you only work in one language instead of switching back and forth.

**As a caveat, I want to say that Middlebury abroad does permit some leeway for emergencies, talking with loved ones (once a week) from home, and writing blogs (like mine!)**

Without further ado I give you my daily routine:

7am: Wake-up and go for a run around my neighborhood

8:30am: Leave for the University of Jordan [UJ] in a taxi a block from my house

9:00am: Fos-ha or Modern Standard Arabic Class

10:40am: Em-iyya or Jordanian Dialect Class

12pm-1pm: Break for Lunch or meeting other UJ students

1:15pm: Sundays and Tuesdays: Gender Issues in the Arab World, taught by the Director of Women’s Studies at UJ

2:00pm: Mondays and Wednesdays: Media Arabic, taught by the director of the Middlebury Jordan Program

3pm: Homework either in Middlebury Office, Library, On-campus, or at home

3:30-5pm: Mondays, Thursdays, and Saturdays: Volunteering at Reclaiming Childhood, a basketball clinic for Syrian, Palestinian, Iraqi, and Special Needs girls.

5-11….sometimes 1 am: Homework, studying, eating, spending time talking to my host family.

The best part about the weekends is that there is plenty of time to either relax at home, commit to doing homework, cooking with my host family, and weekend trips with the Middlebury Program to various parts of the city and outskirts.

By Dominique Bonessi

For a city with few public areas for walking, transportation can also be difficult.

For me, getting to school everyday is a bit of a challenge.  The university is about a 15 minute drive from my home.  I leave my house and walk to the roundabout about a block away.  I then pay about 2 to 3 JD [dinar]--depending on traffic--to a taxi to get to school.  Hopping in a taxi here you give the taxi a well-known landmark and most likely he just knows where it is.  For example, going to the north gate of the University of Jordan, I have to say baba il-shimel fi il-jami3a il-urdunia [north gate of the University of Jordan].

Unfortunately, there are barely any reliable buses that can get me within walking distance to my home.  Buses vary, there are some that are more like big vans that carry many people and go to very specific destination. While others are like more traditional buses in the United States that go to general drop off locations.  However--unlike in the US--buses in Amman run on Arab time meaning ma fish mushkila [no worries], whatever time the driver feels like it.

Not only can getting to school be a bit pricey, but after school when we all want to go to a different part of Amman to a cafe or hang out spot, the taxi prices increase later at night on the way home.  But, there is a silverlining!

Some advice to those wishing to study abroad in Jordan and worried about transportation costs:

1. Splitting a cab with people going to around the same area as you is more affordable and typically I only have to pay 0.50 JD instead of 2 JD.

2. Don't be afraid to figure your way out by walking to your destination.  Although it is not much of a walking city, if you are in an area that isn't as traffic heavy it is fun to walk.

3. For those trying to practice their Arabic, the forced interaction of directing your taxi driver and possibly having a full conversation is always a benefit of taking a taxi. For example, on my way home the other night for an artsy area of Amman, the taxi driver I met was very nice.  He asked me where I was from and told me about his family from Palestine and why he likes Amman so much.

By Dominique Bonessi

Touchdown! 5:15am. So tired—travelled all night from Spain on Turkish Airlines into Jordan.  Upon arrival I was greeted by the bright lighting in Jordanian airport and a long line at passport control, but after a exchanging some money and  few yawns I was off in a taxi with another student from my program for my host’s home.

Sam, my companion in the taxi, has already been to Jordan doing an internship over the summer and had a better grasp on the Jordanian dialect.  Between the two of us we managed to get Sam to his host neighborhood and I was able to direct the driver to my home.  The best part about getting to my home was that my roommate provided perfect directions.  Rebecca has already been in Jordan for a semester and she is well-accustomed to the culture by now.  It is great having someone to show me the ropes and get me acquainted with my surroundings.

The taxi drove up to the green gates—exactly as Rebecca’s directions said—I got out gave him 15 dinar for my trip and 15 dinar from Sam, and rang the buzzer.  I wasn’t sure upon arrival if this was a house or an apartment complex, but the housekeeper, Ruma, came out to greet me and show me to my room.  Finally meeting Rebecca, I settled into our apartment that is the loft beneath the main house.  I can’t believe my eyes the room has a sitting area, wide screen TV, one queen-size and one twin bed, a full kitchen, washer/dryer, and small full-bathroom.  After a seven hour nap, Ruma, came knocking to see if I was hungry.

We made our way up through the garden to the main house.  The house has a warm glow of colors and at the center of the house a beautiful courtyard with grass, a fountain, and beautiful shrubs all around. I meet my host Lamia in the kitchen talking with her sister, in Austria, over Skype.  She quickly greets me with two kisses on each check and asks if I am hungry.  She has prepared for me stuffed zucchini and eggplant with bread.  I didn’t realize exactly how hungry I was, but the homemade food was absolutely delicious.

The host family I am staying with feels like an Arab version of Steel Magnolias. Lamia, the cook and the head of the house hold.  Then Ruma, the young help and kind soul, Saya, Lamia’s daughter and looks like an Arab version of Beyounce, and two of Lamia’s friends all meet in the kitchen.  They drink strong Turkish coffee, smoke cigarettes, talk about their weight, and exchange habibi [love] every other word.  And there is Lamia’s husband, who I have not met yet, but it seems like these women are independent and make up a family.

I can’t believe I’m finally here. It is going to be a great four months.

By numzzz123

Ahlan wa sahlan! My name is Anum Malik and I am a junior at The George Washington University, double majoring in economics and international affairs. This past summer, I ventured into Egypt to do research, but ended up finding myself in the middle of the 2013 Egyptian Counterrevolution. It challenged my way of thinking and I emerged as a person with a newfound understanding and curious passion for the Middle East. I will continue my learning adventure by heading to Jordan this semester to not only study, but also conduct a volunteer/research project so that I can find the most efficient way to leave an impact on the region. Thanks to this past summer, I am expecting the unexpected as I head back into the Middle East, and I am extremely excited to once again step out of my comfort zone and embrace what is yet to come.

By Dominique Bonessi

With less than a month until my program in Jordan begins, my anxiety has reached its’ peak. So much to do prepare and plan for; I find myself avoiding my first post for fear that I will sound too formal or too anxious or too idealist or digressing in getting to my point—which I have already done.

I have been studying Arabic for three years now and the Middlebury Program at the University of Jordan will advance my Arabic.  If you haven’t heard of the Middlebury Program let me give you an idea of how intense this language program can be.  A friend of mine went to the Middlebury campus in Vermont over the summer after one semester of French and never really being able to learn a language and came out speaking fluent French.  My program is a little different.  I will be living with a host family in Amman, taking four classes entirely in Arabic, and signing a language pledge that says I will only speak, think, read, and write in Arabic.  For the next five months I will be eating, sleeping, living, and breathing completely, 100% in Arabic.

In order to brace myself for what is to come in two weeks and three days I have made the following preparations. First, I have been reviewing my Arabic vocab and grammar so I can place into the proper level for my placement test.  Second, I have downloaded an Arabic language pack on my computer so I can type in Arabic.  This was preceded by making my own stickers to put on my keys in order to learn the Arabic keyboard.  Finally, I have taken the initiative to read news about Jordan in both English and in Arabic in order to keep up with current events.

In addition to the language classes, I am also anxious and excited to live for five months in an Arabic speaking country.  I realize Jordan is probably not the most westernized country there is to study abroad in; therefore, there will be challenges to overcome.  As a side note, I am currently writing to you from the comfort of my friend’s family’s house in Madrid, Spain.  I’ve know them since I was 12 when I came to visit in the summer and this is my fifth trip back to Spain to visit.  Like most of Europe, Spain is modernized there is always some form of transportation to get around, walking around is very easy and safe, and there is little in the way—for me—of a language barrier.  Going from Spain to Jordan maybe like jumping into a pool of ice cold water, where transportation isn’t as simple, walking around my neighborhood may not be safe to do alone, and I have yet to learn conversational Arabic.  These challenges differ from the challenges of my classes as they are more difficult to prepare for because until I arrive in Jordan I don’t like to have expectations.  I only have one, which is to expect the unexpected.

By nlgyon

This is it you guys--my last post. It's a strange feeling. I'm so excited to see my family, friends, and pets and experience all the creature comforts I left in the states. But I've also just started to really get comfortable here; I've gained a decent grasp of conversational dialect, a good number of Jordanian friends, and several professional contacts. I've spent so many hours establishing a home away from home here, it feels very strange to just leave it all. Plus, there's still so much regional travel I would do if I had the time and the means. But I'll leave on Thursday with no regrets. I've seen, done and learned so much hear that it's impossible for me to leave with anything but gratitude in my heart--for the Jordanians who made me feel at home, for my DPS homies, and for all my professors and advisers.

And on that note, I'd like to thank the people who gave their money and support so that I could experience this rare adventure--my parents. Especially you, mom. I know this hasn't been easy for you, especially with Megan being in the Philippines and all, and I appreciate everything you've done to make this trip as great as it has been, even though I know you just want me to come home. I'm sorry I couldn't make the time to update you on everything that has been going in in my Jordan life, and I can't wait to come home and tell you about everything I forgot to during our Skype conversations. But this probably isn't the last time I'll be away. Until I settle down and start a family of my own, I'm going to keep traveling because the world has too many lessons in it to stay in one place. But just like this semester, I'll always call home, and I'll always come back, hopefully a better person than when I left--a person that you can continue to be proud of. I love you and dad lots, and I can't wait to come home.

 

By nlgyon

For the bigger adventures in Jordan and the region, travel guides do a pretty good job of giving you the low-down, but I thought I'd throw out some of the best aspects of my travels that you probably won't find in a travel guide.

Honorable mention: Sweet Chili Pepper Doritos

These actually might be available in the US but this is the first place I’ve seen them, and they’re really delicious. Especially with hummus. And I don’t even like Doritos usually.

10. Gerard’s

Really great ice cream. ‘Nuff said.

9. Java U

In a town where fast internet is almost as scarce as the water, Java U’s got your back. It’s a little pricey but if you need to download a lot of stuff it’s worth grabbing some argileh and spending the afternoon in this café in Abdoun.

8. The Dagger Store

That’s not actually what it’s called but it doesn’t really matter what it’s actually called because addresses aren’t really a thing here. Google Translate the phrase for “dagger store” and head downtown. If you head up a small metal staircase to the left of the amphitheater you should find a shop with traditional-looking daggers filling the walls and showcases. If you don’t, just ask around and I’m sure someone will point you in the right direction. The man who owns this store is as friendly as he his skilled, which is very. He can inscribe a message or word on a dagger blade for you and can carve a customized wooden hilt. They make for great souvenirs/gifts.

7. Amigo's

I enjoyed going to this laid-back bar/restaurant off of first circle because of: a decent happy hour, a billiards table, good music at a volume conducive to conversation, and it never really gets crowded before 10 PM or so.

6. مطعم زهور (Meta’am Zuhoor)

Literally, "Restaurant of Flowers." If you enroll in CIEE and are placed in their Jabal Amman residences, this restaurant is located really close--right behind Le Royal. you can get a plate of falafel, cucumber tomato salad, two scrambled eggs, a bowl of hummus with pita, and tea for only 2.5 JD (about $3.50).  The owner is super nice, and either doesn't know much English or doesn't use it, so it's a good place to practice your Arabic as well. Good times.

5. Al-Quds

.50JD for unanimously the best falafel sandwich in town. Located on Rainbow Street.

4. Al-Reem

My go-to shawerma shack. Probably will be the best shawerma sandwich you’ve had. Located on 2nd circle.

3. Bassam the Taxi Driver

When you go to see the Dead Sea, Wadi Rum, Petra, Ma’in Hot Springs, Desert Castles, Jerash, Baptism Site, or any other domestic tourist attraction, call this cabbie. His friendly personality and eccentric CD collection turned our 1-hour cab ride into a 1-hour karaoke dance-in-your-seat-to-terrible-music-that-everyone-knows party. Needless to say, he won’t try to rip you off as some cab drivers are known to do. And don’t get your expectations up, but we were treated to juice and snacks on our return trip.

Basssam Al-Shalabi

Cell: 00962 79 693 1381 OR 00962 78 640 5015

Email: bassamshalabi_81@yahoo.com

2. Moodi Abdalla

If you're going to the Bethlehem/West Bank area, you'll want to meet this man. Some friends and I ended up running into him while looking at some of the art of the separation wall. He's a very talented street artist and super nice tour guide who will show you around some of the famous Banksy paintings in the West Bank for a reasonable price. You can email him at mooditour@gmail.com, or find him on Facebook: "moodi abdalla".

1. Café du Paris

Located on Paris circle, this café-by-day-bar-by-night fills up with ajnabiein, “foreigners” every Tuesday for an absurd special on shots of a certain alliterating spirit. It’s nice because, like Amigos, it doesn’t charge for entry, has a very laid back atmosphere, and the music is usually on point. The real value of this place, though, is in the people you’ll meet. It’s a great chance to make friends from all over the world. Oh, and if you’re into hip-hop, the Jordanians that frequent Paris can show you around the Amman scene. If you’re lucky you’ll get to meet a man known as the Beatbox Elephant (go on a do a Google search)—a very talented artist and genuinely fun guy to be around.

Top ten things your travel guide won't tell you about Jordan. #GWAbroad #GWU #Jordan #countdowns #food #tourism

By nharnish

WEll, it's been a fun journey in Jordan. My research has come a long way in the last months and I'm happy to say I'm leaving this country with so much more knowledge then I had before. My argument is much different then I thought it would be coming into this semester, but I know that this reflects the difference in how much I know about water scarcity and water development int he region.

I've finished my paper, and the argument revolves around the concept that Jordan must work with it's neighbors to tackle the growing water issues. In particular, I believe that Israel offers the best choice in this endeavor. Not only would both nations benefit from mutual water projects and policy, but they could accomplish so much more then being on their own. Projects like the Red to Dead canal are perfect chances for Israel and Jordan to establish political networks and methods in which coordination between he two could be improved. Without efficient coordination, the Red to Dead will fail and be a complete waste of money and time. A successful system of communication would guarantee success and allow similar projects to begin. I also make arguments for projects that revitalize the Jordan River Valley, and looking into the possibility of a Med to Dead canal.

Many of the things necessary for greater water sharing is dependent on Israel's ability to open up and make concessions. For instance, revitalizing the Jordan River Valley would mean the Stat of Israel letting water flow into Jordan once again, taking water from the Sea of Galilee. The benefits of such action far outweigh the loss, not only would Israel be working with Jordan to save the Dead Sea (which maintains a 600 million dollar industry for both nations), but it would push jordan to share its water resources in the south and provide water for the central locations in both countries.

I've had an a amazing time learning more about a subject I love. While I faced a lot of challenges, especially in the interview process and getting officials to be blunt with me, I overcame many of them and certainly learned more about research. Additionally, I plan on continuing my research in the water field, and combining what I've done here with previous work I've done in Egypt. I know I will return in the future, water development has become such a huge part of my academic career that I can't avoid it.

So, farewell Jordan, masalama!

By nlgyon

This year was the first time I spent Thanksgiving with people other my my family members. We wake up and run Parkersburg's annual 5k Turkey Trot. My hometown is one of those nice places where everyone knows everyone so the finish line turns into a social gathering, after which we return to our house in the woods and begin preparing our Thanksgiving feast, and it just so happens that my preparations comes in the form of a post-race nap. You don't want too many cook sin the kitchen, ya know? My family is relatively* small, so the day is relaxing, spent in good conversation over the sound of the television, which switches between dog shows and football games.

My experience here was completely different. Instead of Turkey Trotting, I spent my morning half following along to a business conference in Arabic, aimed at addressing challenges facing Jordan's transportation sector. There were two other Americans in attendance who jokingly cursed me for holding this conference on Thanksgiving.  After the conclusion of the meeting I traveled, still in full business attire, to the UJ campus to attend a CIEE-sponsored Thanksgiving luncheon, at which I was to deliver a short speech about what Thanksgiving means to me, in Arabic. The delivery was mediocre, honestly, but hopefully someone got something out of it. I was just happy to do something new. I'd never spoken in Arabic to a group of more than or 8 or 9 classmates. Afterwards, my friend hosted just about all the kids (there were about 15 people there) in my program for a homemade Thanksgiving dinner, which was delicious despite the scarcity of options for traditional holiday dishes. While we all felt strange being away from out families on the holiday, we made sure that no one felt sad. It was a delightfully raucous occasion. At one point during the feast we each said what we were thankful for, but with each small toast everyone had a joke or comment or story to add so the activity lasted a comically long time. It was a great atmosphere. Everyone was energetic and loud and happy, which I peg as a result of reflecting on the multitude of blessings we all had. After dinner my roommate busted out his guitar and we all sang and talked into the late hours of the night. I have to say though that one culturally-relevant moment is the one moment that will stand out the most from this Thanksgiving. One of my Jordanian friends attended the party, and it was his first Thanksgiving. Just before leaving, he got everyone's attention and said something along the lines of, "I just want you all to know that hearing you all talk about your families, and everything you're thankful for makes me really appreciate being here in Jordan, and I'm really glad I met you all." I was so happy to see someone open his mind to my culture and gain something from it. While I had experienced first had how taking in foreign cultures can be rewarding, I had never thought about it going the other way.

 

*HA. See what I did there?