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By allisonray94

Haha jk, that sounds awful. But I do want to take this opportunity to talk about talking politics, particularly since I am studying in a place where politics is essentially inevitable. Almost everyone in my study abroad program is majoring in Political Science or International Affairs. For those of us majoring in Arabic, our textbook teaches us how to talk about politics before we learn colors or foods. This week, an afternoon study session devolved quickly into a debate on Unites States intervention in the Middle East; it was by far not the first political discussion and will not be the last.

...continue reading "Let’s Talk about Middle Eastern Politics!"

By allisonray94

So the first thing we need to talk about this week is the Language Pledge, which has been haunting my thoughts since I knew I would be signing it. All Middlebury Schools Abroad require this pledge, a literal contract in which each student promises to speak only the target language (in this case, Arabic) for the duration of the program. That's right, this past Wednesday was my last day speaking English. Of course there are exceptions: emergencies, Skyping our families, this blog, etc. But I can't stress how difficult it's been over the last three days -- everything from ordering coffee to chatting up other students is a task. Still, it's actually really fun. And I can hear myself getting better already. It just goes to show that three years of Arabic hasn't been a complete waste. Yay!

...continue reading "The Language Pledge (and Other Things)"

By allisonray94

Even if you're in the United States, you are probably aware that this past week the Muslim community celebrated Eid al-Adha. The holiday reminds me a lot of Christmas -- only instead of an old man in a red suit there are lambs everywhere. The lamb is a representation of the story of Abraham's sacrifice to God. In case you are unfamiliar, God commanded Abraham to sacrifice his only son. Abraham was not a fan of this idea, but he trusted in God and prepared to kill his son. At the last minute, God tells Abraham to stop, and that he may sacrifice a lamb instead of his son. Eid al-Adha celebrates Abraham's faith in God and willingness to sacrifice his son. Traditionally, Muslim families who can afford it sacrifice their own lamb for Eid, keeping one third, giving another third to friends and family, and donating the rest to the poor.

...continue reading "كل عام وانت بخير (Eid al-Adha in Jordan)"

By allisonray94

No matter where you're studying in the world, homework will always take up approximately 86% of your time. Classes have started and, as such, I've had so much less time to see Amman. At the same time I'm learning more Arabic than ever. That tends to happen when all of your classes are taught in Arabic. With Fusha (formal Arabic) and Aamiyya (Jordanian Dialect Arabic) classes, that's not so bad. We have vocabulary lists every week. On the other hand, try taking a college-level Literature class in Arabic. In our last class we collectively struggled to describe personification in Arabic. The Language Pledge is like a game of Taboo that never ends.

...continue reading "صفوفي (My Classes, etc.)"

By allisonray94

IMG_2868!مرحبا

My name is Allison and I'm blogging this semester from Amman, Jordan. Today was my first full day in Amman and the beginning of the Middlebury School's orientation. Orientation Week is particularly crucial for this study abroad program, as it's the only time during the semester that we will be allowed to speak in English. It's all Arabic after this.

Orientation was helpful, but by far the best experience of the day began afterwards, when we met our mentors (مرشدون) and began to explore Amman. We grabbed coffee at a local shop (where smoking indoors is still very cool) and talked for a while. The mentors are all University of Jordan students. It's really calming to talk to someone your own age who understands both Jordanian culture and that of American study abroad students. The mentors also give us some idea of what modern Amman is like. The female mentors all wore hijabs, but one of them cursed continually and talked openly about politics. Lara, my mentor, wears skinny jeans and loves Dan Brown books. None of this is particularly earth-shattering I guess, but every new detail about their lives feels like a small piece to the intricate puzzle of Jordanian identity.

So far, my only other source for extended interactions is my host family, who live in the house above mine and my roommate's basement apartment. We have the most contact with Eman; as the mother, she is in charge of the children (including us). She has four children, one live-in servant, and a husband who I have yet to meet. She's also in charge of feeding us breakfast and dinner, which is great because she's an excellent cook. Tonight's dinner was mansaf. The national dish of Jordan, it's lamb and rice soaked in a yogurt gravy. And it's delicious. IMG_2869

Overall, my first day has been filled with anxiety. Everything is different here, and that's a concept that my mind is having trouble accepting. Still, my interactions with Jordanians so far have taught me that, however different-minded we may be, at the end of the day people are just people no matter what country you're in. Maybe it'll be different once I start speaking to the mentors and my host family in Arabic, but right now the best cure for anxiety is a long conversation with another person. It makes everything strange or foreign melt away until I'm left with the warm, familiar feeling of getting to know a new friend.

That's all for now.

!مع السلامة

By kfarishta

After another month of travel, I have finally arrived in Nepal—my last stop. Before arriving in Kathmandu, we had a very impactful experience in Jordan. I am still left with many unanswerable questions and a yearning to do more.

Upon arriving to Amman, our country coordinators told us to “put on our refugee caps.” This was their metaphoric way of saying: Jordan is a country of refugees. You cannot understand the political, economic, and social factors if you do not understand and recognize the refugee situation. Within the first few weeks of the program, we visited Al-Baqaah Camp (the largest and oldest UNRWA Palestinian Refugee Camp), Al-Za’atari Camp (the second largest refugee camp in the world and the largest Syria exodus settlement), and the Al-Hashimi Al-Shamali region (the largest urban settlement of newly arriving Iraqi refugees in Amman).

Visiting Za’atari gave me a critical perspective of the refugee camp conditions and provided meaningful insight on how family structures affected support, security and stability. Food supply coupons were provided based on a formula constructed on age, gender, and necessity. If a family member was missing, the entire family bore the burden of limited resources that could help sustain the entire family. As a result, family structures, which were divided within the camp system or separated between the Syrian and Jordanian border, required their children to engage in labor to generate supplemental income for the family’s day-to-day living expenses. In particular, we met with a mother, her son (13 years old) and daughter (11 years old). They came from the Dara rural area of Syria where the Syrian crisis had started. The husband was a government soldier in Syria, but during the conflict when he retracted his allegiance to Bashar’s regime, he was deserted and sent back to Syria. Consequently, without him as a father figure who primarily earned the income in the family, the son was forced into labor. He pushed carts for 1 Jordanian Dinar for over two kilometers, bearing 50 kilograms of weight. This prevented his access to education because he was burdened with providing for his family. The daughter, when asked about her father cried and could not answer. The mother said, although the daughter has the chance go to school, without money to pay for a uniform she is unable to go. The mother noted that without her husband the family could not survive in the camp much longer.

We also met with Palestinians who escaped in the exoduses of 1948 and 1967. The conditions had marginally improved over the decades and the right to return home was a distant illusion. Food stipends were halved. A single mother we met was struggling to make ends meet for her disabled son and herself. In the Iraqi settlement, the survivors fled the atrocious and inhumane torture from ISIS. One woman accounted that her brother was executed with a nail drilled through his chest. Escape was the only way out of violence.

What is happening in the Middle Eastern region is a huge burden for host nations and conflict nations alike. There is painstakingly clear evidence of genocide, crimes against humanity, etc. There is immense injustice and immeasurable human suffering. Such human rights violations will be tumultuous for progress to occur. How can the international community practice its ‘responsibility to protect’ to stop genocide?

Thank you for reading. I hope all of us can open our minds and comprehend this grave human rights condition and also keep these resilient people in our hearts.

Genocide cannot continue.

By Dominique Bonessi

As my trip is winding down I find myself distinguishing between the things I will miss and the things I could live without.  But instead of focusing on the things I dislike I will concentrate on things that I can’t get enough of here in my country.

  1. The Food: Shwerma, Hummus, Beans, Mansef…..and the list goes on.  I will not be able to go back to the states and eat hummus from the container; rather I will go back and try to create my own hummus—probably cheaper too.  My host mom has also taught me so much about Jordanian cooking from stuffed olive leaves, to summer watermelon and cheese, and almond cake.
  2. Desert Visits: I recently just got back from Wadi Mujib and the Dead Sea—my favorite trip so far—and I realized how beautiful the desert of Jordan is with various places to hike, swim, bike, and explore.  Each wadi with its own unique beauty, colors, and secrets.  This weekend trips have been great for rest and relaxation especially between busy weeks with studying and homework.
  3. Cafés: I know there are great café’s in DC, but as it is in a city they tend to be busy all the time with no space to spread out and get work done.  The café’s in Amman have been my sanctuary for work and--of course—my coffee fix.  Each café has comfy music, couches, and atmosphere to get work done without it being stressful and time consuming.  In DC, I don’t get the same atmosphere for studying with hundreds of people around and students sweating over their books to cram for the next exam.
  4. MBC on TV: Middle East Broadcasting has been a great source for me to simply turn on the TV and listen to Arabic.  In the states I have to dig through the internet to listen to Arabic channels and it is not as enjoyable as sitting in front of the TV with my host mom as we talk about our days and the celebrities on TV.  I especially have come to enjoy the Turkish soap operas and I can understand the storyline better now.
  5. Friends: I have had the opportunity and the honor to meet some of the most amazing Jordanians here and my time here would not have been as enjoyable if it wasn’t for them.  I am truly grateful for their friendship and the time I have spent with them, and I hope they come and visit me in the states and/or I have time to go back to Jordan to see them.

By Dominique Bonessi

Look Up!!!

I finally get what this guy is saying.

This weekend I had the wonderful opportunity of taking a trip to Wadi Feynan.  If you ever come to Jordan most of your trips will be to desert valleys [wadi] with beautiful multi-colored rocks, uncharted paths, and kind locals.  The tourism industry in Jordan has made a killing off of weekend expeditions from Amman to the valleys including transportation, meals, accommodations, and activities.

I have had several opportunities to stay in traditional Bedouin tents, biked across the desert, watch the sunset, and sleep in the Econo Logde, an eco-friendly hotel in the middle of Wadi Feynan.  And through it all I did it without a phone, a computer, or wi-fi—what a concept.

But really, on a daily basis I don’t have wi-fi or access to internet for at least two-thirds of my day.  I go to school I talk with people in Arabic, I meet with friends and have coffee, and I look up when I walk from place to place.  Disconnecting from my phone and technology has really made me realize how much I use my phone in DC and at school.  But what for?—It is such a distraction and doesn’t allow you to live in the moment.

I also realized that not being constantly connected to a phone also helps me with my Arabic.  Instead of being on my phone I take the time to engage in conversation and focus in on the target language.  I have heard that the iPhone is killing the art of conversation and I agree; we look for any excuse not talk to people who are in the same room as us, and for what?—Take time to turn your phone off and enjoy time with the people you love.

When I go back to GW I think I will try to turn off my data when I don’t absolutely need it and avoid receiving Facebook and Snapchat updates at all hours of the day. I also want to start only using my phone if I have a wi-fi signal and saving those important moments for myself instead of constantly having to share them with the world.

By Dominique Bonessi

They were waiting for three hours.

In Mafraq, just a 12 minute drive from the Syrian border, sitting in crowded oven-like room refugees--women, men, and children—needed clothes.

One-by-one they were escorted by a volunteer to the tables piled with lightly used pants, skirts, hijabs, shirts, shoes, and anything else the volunteers had collected.  The flee market was an organized system with a section for men, women, boys, girls, shoes, and bed sheets.  Many of the refugees were women picking up clothes for a family of two girls and two boys with a baby on the way.

I was working the hijab table, unfortunately, it was the smallest table in the flea market of clothes.  Each woman in the family was able to select a scarf, but we only had one box and a bag of hijabs.  After an hour we had to start turning women away looking for scarves.  Eventually, I gained the confidence to escort a few women to find clothing for their children and husbands.  Many of them just needed the essentials, which made me really rethink the amount of clothes and extra things I don’t need on a daily basis.

After two hours crowds were restless and started pushing on the makeshift barrier between the flea market and the waiting area for the refugees.  Women and men entered the store clenching small blue books given to them by the UN.  One volunteer explained to me that these books were to receive help and services by the local governorate of Jordan.

My volunteer experience was with a group of 50 engineering students from the University of Jordan devoting their labor day to serving the fellow Arabs.  These young college students from Amman who have everything at their finger-tips realize how fortunate they are with the ability to attend a university, have a roof over their heads, and clothes on their back.

Whoever said Arab pride and nationalism were dead has never seen a well-oiled machine quiet like this one.  The truth is, any day the shoe could be on the other foot—no pun intended—and it may be Syrians reaching out to Jordanians to supply clothes, food, or clean drinking water.  Syrians, Jordanians, Palestinians may be the places they comes from, but at heart they have a greater common denominator as Arabs.

By Dominique Bonessi

Amman may not be a New York or a DC with plenty of areas to spread out and study in the sun or walk around, but there the one thing they do have are awesome cafes for studying.

Every weekend I have made it my job to find the best of these cafes by word of mouth, the internet, or just walking around popular areas in Amman.  Here are my top three favorite study places in Amman:

  1. Turtle Green Café: Rainbow Street near 1st Circle.  If you’re missing home and need a place that offers reasonably priced beverages and food Turtle Green is the perfect vibe for you.  This tiny two floor coffee shop is just the surface of the hipster culture in Amman.  The beverages range from Jordanian classics like lemon-mint juice to lattes to green tea shakes.  The salads are also made with fresh ingredients and zesty dressings.  For a study space the café has everything, couches and desks for comfort, free wifi, and the perfect calming tunes of study music.  And if that wasn’t enough there are also really turtles swimming in a tank next to the window.
  2. Beanoz: Across the street from the North Gate of the University of Jordan.  This café has become a hang out spot for my friends and I in between class periods.  The study and relaxation mood changes on any given day along with the music varying with everything from rap to old school Beatles music.  There are very few food options but their omelets, sandwiches, and ice teas are the perfect lunch that is a little more expensive than a regular lunch option, but good for once a week. The barista is also very friendly with everyone and always asks if we need anything.  Finally there is always wifi and chess to play for our entertainment.
  3. Café Paris: Paris Circle Downtown. This isn’t as much of a study place as it is good for a study break.  Tuesday nights are a popular night around 9pm to 12am for drinks, good dance music, and a fun time with friends.  If you couldn’t guess from the title the café is very popular for Jordan hipsters and study abroad college students.  The music varies from hardcore rap to 80s Michael Jackson music, but always a fun time.  The once issue may be the immense about of smoking there is in a given night leaves your clothes smelling nasty, but if you can see past the smoke—no pun intended—you can see this swanky café/lounge offers the best of Jordanian youth culture.