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By rmattiola

"We are all children of mother earth"

In Chile, there are about 10 recognized indigenous groups, although many others exist. The largest two are the Aymara (or Aimara) of the extreme north (aka the region of Arica and Parinacota) and the Mapuche of the Central- South (Arancunia Region).

During class, we received small details about each group, and we occasionally can pick up on personal opinions, but it seems like the program is encouraging us learn directly from the indigenous, rather than from a secondary source from an outsider’s perspective. We quickly learned the significance of Pacha mama (Mother earth) and Inti (Sun) from various artisans and educators in Arica, but I was craving more information.

I was fascinated by a brief lesson taught in a Spanish class about the Andian Cosmovisión (roughly translates to “world view”). The surviving Andian communities are the Quechua and Aymara who share many aspects of their world beliefs. This ancient group is thought to have migrated from Lake Titicaca in Tiwanhaku, Bolivia to the coast of Chile and Peru well before the conquistadors arrived in Latin America. We learned of the strong community connection rooted in familiar ties between the inhabitants of Aymara towns. Apparently, the hardest and most important work is often shared. The whole community will come together to dig a canal, or plant seeds, or harvest potatoes, and then feast together afterwards. We learned of the belief in 3 worlds:

Uku or Alak pacha: the world below the earth; the roots; where the dead live—but not to be mistaken for “underworld”—uku pacha has a lighter connotation. It is a respectful resting place, rather than a punishment. In fact, apparently the Aymara will pour out a little wine or milk or liquor on the ground for their ancestors (called antepasados) before drinking the beverage themselves.

...continue reading "Putre: “Somos todos hijos de la madre tierra”"

By vgosalvez11

Now I am not actually sure if that is a real nick name for Valpo or not but I really think it is should be. Valparaiso is a Chilean port city which is famous for its steep funiculars, the incredible street art and the numerous colorful, clifftop homes. Valparaiso was also once home to the Nobel Prizing winning Chilean poet Pablo Neruda. As one of only two noble prize winners from Chile Neruda is something of a national hero, and several of his houses and other important buildings have been turned into wonderful museums and monuments to him.

The city of Valparaiso and its sister beach town of Vina del Mar are very important to any Santiago study abroad experience. At first glance Santiago could sometimes be mistaken for many other modern cities in Europe and North America. It is large and busy, a bit dirty (but less so than NYC) and generally seems pretty modern and westernized. If you don't know where to look you might miss the history. Valparaiso on the other hand allows you to see more of the art and culture of  staring you right in the face. And it is so close to Santiago that it will surely be visited by and exchange student. You can get to either Valpo or Vina from Santiago in just a quick 90 minute bus right that costs between $5 and $10 US Dollars.

Since I have been in Santiago (about 8 weeks) I was hearing so much about other people's trips to Valparaiso. i had made it out to the beach at Vina but Valpo was very much lacking in my life. So on Friday morning I fought against my impending cold and we dragged our selves through Semana Santa (Easter Weekend) traffic to Valpo.

...continue reading "Valparaiso: City of Colors"

By vgosalvez11

Just a few hours ago I returned home to my host family from what has got to be one of the best trips of my life. On Thursday morning the 10 members of the GW group and our program coordinator pulled ourselves out of bed at 5 am and loaded into a van for the airport. We headed to San Pedro de Atacama, a small tourist town in an oasis of the Atacama desert (which by the way, is the driest desert in the world). Now I have never been to a desert (save Las Vegas, and I never left the strip) so I wasn't sure what to expect. But despite my high hopes Atacama blew me away. Everything about it, from the winding dirt roads, to the mountain views, to the beat up historic tourist town was amazingly gorgeous. I tried my best to drink in the sight of the mountains across the endless horizons and huge number of stars around the ridiculously big and bright full moon. I was astounded by so much in this unique corner of the world.

When I wasn't looking around in awe we found lots else to do. We started with a tour of Valle de La Luna and incredible sunset views over the valley. Then we check out El Saldo de Atacama which is massive and impressive salt flat in the desert. (It also happens to be location where the most lithium in the world is produced). In this busy day we even got squeeze in an incredible bike ride, where we passed over rivers and through the desert then climbed over salt crusted hills. But the best part of this ride was the two stray dogs who followed us the whole way for over two hours, waiting for us every time we stopped. Then the next morning we got up at the crack of dawn and saw the sunrise over the Andes while making our way to see the El Tatio Geyers. At 14,000 ft at 7 in the morning (-7 degrees C, apparently)  I couldn't stopped shivering but also was so interested in how this phenomena happens. But the most enlightening part of the journey was this morning before we left, getting to visit the home of a native of Atacama.

This man invited us into his community for a tour and to show us the way he and his people have lived for thousands of years. We got to see how the houses are built, the set up of their farms and learned about some of the most sacred rituals and their meanings. Further, we got to learn about the importance of choclo (corn) in the Atacamanian community and the many different kinds that are still grown. We even got to taste a variety of their foods and see how they were prepared.

...continue reading "Cultura Indigena"

This week was relatively chill as I am feeling more and more at home here in Santiago. So without anything big or drastic to comment on I figured I could write a blog to answer the question all my family members ask when they call, “what are they feeding you”. So today I will treat you all to my personal review of  the food I have had hear in Chile so far and how this differs from American food. Before coming to Chile, I did not have a specific opinion on Chilean food.

I thought it should be similar to other Latin American foods, like Mexican food or Peruvian. I assumed there would be a lot of chicken and rice and the typical Chilean foods like choclo, empanadas and carne a lo pobre. I was hoping that Chileans would like spicy food and hot sauce (like the country’s name suggests) because, I love spicy and flavorful food. Based on Chile’s geography I assumed that the Chileans eat a lot of fish because it is a country with so much access to the sea and the fishing industry. Also, I thought Chile had meat as good as Argentina's very famous meat. But since my arrival here in Chile my perception has changed a lot.

First I want to say something, I do not hate Chilean food, it is not terrible and could be much worse. Above all, I'm very lucky because my host mother is a very good cook. She is retired and takes great pride in cooking delicious and healthy foods and cooking with lots of variety. I understand that this is not very common because in some of the other student homes their host parents make the same food almost every day. It can be especially difficult for vegetarians, as vegetarianism is not very common in Chile and they often don’t know what to make of it.

...continue reading "Comida Chilena"

By vgosalvez11

This week, one of my program friends casually mentioned to me that we are already 25% through our program. (((The total is 20 week and we only have 15 left.))) I was astonished by this. I can already feel that this semester is going by so fast! It feels like I have been here forever, but at the same time, as if I should have endless time ahead of me.

I think a major contribution to my comfort level and immersion here in Santiago is living with a Chilean host family. Living with a host family has its pros and cons, of course, but at the moment I feel like it’s the best decision I could have made.

My hosts are an older married couple, Julio and Santina, who have been retired for years. They have been absolutely lovely, making me feel at home and teaching me about Santiago and Chilean culture and politics. I have my own area in the house—in fact, it is a building that is separate from the main house, with my own little bedroom and bathroom and even a little couch area. It appears me that this was probably the area for a Nana (a Chilean live-in maid). (((So I am very comfortable here.))) However, I can’t help mentioning that even the house is significantly different from ones in the US. There is no gas or central heating at all, so when winter comes, we will be using gas or electric space heaters to keep warm. The water is heated by gas and there is no hot water tank, so it heats as it comes out. (Luckily, it’s still in the 70s-80s here, so no problem with a little cold water so far).

For my meals, I eat with the family, which is lovely. I get an authentically Chilean meal for breakfast, lunch and dinner, and the company of at least my host mother and often my host father. My host mother is a pretty great cook, and I know this is not something to be taken for granted. Generally speaking, Chilean food can be famously bland (probably like English food). The major staples seem to be rice, chicken, avocado, tomato and a variety of bean soups.

...continue reading "Home Stay Sweet Home Stay"

By rmattiola

Thus far, I’ve toured and observed 6 health centers with in the public sector: Two CESFAM (centro de salud familiar: Family Health Center) one CESCOF (centro comunitario de salud familiar: Community Family Health Center) one Posta Rural (rural post), UNACESS (la unidad de atención y control en salud sexual:a sexual health center) and Teleton (a center for children with motor disabilities).

A brief explanation of the private and public system before I begin with my observations and opinions:

The public system is entirely government run. In fact, the level of government involvement in health care is surprising. It is easy to classify their system of health care as “socialized” although it is not universal. However, there is still an obvious connection to social medicine (which studies the social determinants of health). Between 80 and 90% of Chileans have public insurance called FONASA (Fondo Nacional de Salud) which has 4 levels, A, B,C, and D. Those with A and B receive free health care. Those with C and D pay a percentage of their fees to the government for their health care (10% and 30%, respectively). The public sector adequately covers primary care, although the region of Arica and Parincota is seriously lacking in emergency care centers, and specialists. In fact, there is only one SAPU (urgent care center) and one hospital where specialists are difficult to utilize. Apparently, all the specialists are concentrated in Santiago.

Regarding the private system, I only know that insurance is much more expensive, there are more specialists, and wait times are supposedly shorter (there is plenty of justified complaining from locals about wait times in both sectors). As far as I know, the government only regulates the private industry and has no other involvement.

...continue reading "Chilean Health Care 101"

By vgosalvez11

I wish there was some sort of invention or way for me to track and catalog how I have grown since arriving here in Santiago. Its amazing how things that felt so foreign when I first arrived feel so natural now. Plus, I can't even quantify the amount of Spanish and Chilean I have learned in the last few weeks. It's insane to think there was a time where I hadn't heard of piropos and gringos and so many of the other things I have learned about already.

Class is definitely in full swing (in fact, I should probably be doing readings right now). After trying out about 8 different classes, I think I have finally settled my schedule. I am taking two classes offered by GW, a Chilean culture/Spanish class, and a Historical Memory and Human Rights class, which focuses on the history of the recent Chilean dictatorship and the many human rights abuses suffered during that time period. In addition, I am taking two business classes through the best business school in Santiago. Unfortunately, these two classes are in English, but my classmates are from all over the world and the subject matter focuses on business challenges in Chile and Latin America.

The business school has been a wonderful asset to me so far, and I have met some wonderful and incredibly helpful Chilean friends! Finally, I am enrolled in two classes directly in our other host university. In these classes I am pretty much the only gringa (Chilean word for anyone from North America—its not offensive, I promise). One class is Chilean and Latin American film and literature, and the second is a theatre class! It is absolutely wonderful to be able to take these cool elective classes that I never get to take at GW! The Chilean classes have been a really interesting challenge so far, getting to be in class with only Chileans is really important for immersion. So far I am enjoying all of them, even if the three hour class blocks can be very very draining.

...continue reading "Putting the "study" back in "study abroad""

By rmattiola

I am almost bothered by how constantly I am noting cultural variations. I need to actively tell myself to turn off—stop thinking—just enjoy. Here are some of those never ending cultural observations:

  • Besos (kisses): Here in Chile, and in most of Latin/ Central America, the greetings are more intimate. Handshakes are reserved for men. I made this mistake early on based on instinct, and felt the discomfort from the other person and those watching. Friends of friends and family of friends are automatically qualified for cheek kisses. I’ve even seen doctors give besos to their patients after the appointment. I was nervous about this new greeting style since my family and friends at home are much more casual with greetings, and I had little to no practice with cheek kisses. But I’ve found it’s much less stressful than I thought--the kiss is merely putting your right cheeks together and making a kissing noise while you half hug or place your hand on the other’s shoulder. The Chileans are smoother than I am, and I sometimes feel like I’m crashing into the other’s cheek rather than gently meeting them. The angle of the kiss changes on the intimacy between the couple. For example, family members and close friends will often turn to actually plant a kiss on the other’s cheek. We were warned to be cautious of how close our “kiss” lands to the other person’s mouth, because if you even remotely get close to a kiss on the lips, you are understood to be making an advance towards the other person.
  • Dogs: dogs are everywhere! Most people have one or more dogs, and there is a surplus of street dogs. I hear dog “fights” frequently. Usually these “fights” are more or less playful, and people are unconcerned, but they are very noisy, and last all night.
  • Doorbells: When the doorbell rings, it’s not commonplace to get up and answer it right away. They wait, almost ignore it, talk about who it might be, and after a few minutes will get it.
  • Time: many of the girls in the group are having a hard time adjusting to Chilean time. I however, am thriving in it. It’s normal--and expected--for locals to arrive 30 minutes to 1 hour late to any event that is not class. I believe that this lateness is actually respectful, because if you arrive on time or early to a party, the host might not be fully prepared.

...continue reading "Field Notes"

By vgosalvez11

Things are starting to fall into place little by little here in Chile and I have been able to take in some of the most interested differences which I have been able to note between our cultures.

I have found Chileans to be very self-deprecating of their city and their country. One of the first questions you often get asked while introducing yourself to a Chilean is an incredulous “¿Porque viniste a Chile?” with an insinuation that no one would usually choose Santiago as their travel destination.

They tend to describe their country as less interesting and see Europe as the correct choice of destination. Another comment that Chileans will often openly make is how “machista” their society still is. Machismo, which is commonly related to Latin America, is defined as, “a strong or exaggerated sense of manliness; an assumptive attitude that virility, courage, strength, and entitlement to dominate are attributes or concomitants of masculinity.” In practice it usually means a patriarchal society where it is very important for men to display their strength and masculinity often over women.

I have noticed the machismo attitude in this city already. Women are still mostly expected to do all the house work and men are expected to work and provide for the family. Fathers are not expected to change diapers or participate too heavily in the care of the house or young children. Further in dating and with young men they have specific and sometimes intense expectations of women. Chileans even have their own word for catcalls with what is almost a positive connotation. These comments, whistles or interactions usually experiences on the street are called “piropos”. They range from anything as simple as a whistle to a complex pickup line or being followed down the street by an “admirer”. Chilean women consider this a way of life and know to just ignore and avoid and not to reply back. It is even said that some Chilean women take it as a point of pride. Foreigners are warned not to expect help or sympathy from others on the street if they are receiving piropos, as it is considered normal.

...continue reading "Manly Machismo and Chile"

By rmattiola

Last Sunday, after the earth briefly shook beneath my feet (my first experience of a tremblor), I found my own thoughts and opinions shaken up a bit as well. A week ago, the program director Brian informed me that there is a strong movement amongst the Aymara (indigenous to northern Chile) to assimilate. At the time, I couldn’t understand why.

Over the past few days, I’ve been asked if I was Chilean or not—if I was a student from the US or one of the host siblings. Of course, I was ecstatic to be asked this. Blending in in a different country or culture is something that I consciously work towards and assign importance to. But why do I feel this way? Why am I happier in my dark, dark, Mediterranean skin than my porcelain American skin? Why is it that I’m almost ashamed of the attention attracted by my American body and accent? The reason is now clear: I have a preconceived notion that Americans are perceived as gluttonous, rude, obnoxious and uncultured. I am aware of my own feelings and attempts to blend in, yet I’m shocked when I hear that natives are trying to assimilate because I feel they have a history and a culture to protect.

In reality though, I’m sure they feel (and have felt for many years) just as I do now; happy to blend in and ashamed to be associated with a poorly connoted group. The indigenous live this struggle their whole life, while I will only experience it here for 4 months. So what should be done and thought about indigenous assimilation? What is ethical? Should we ignorantly allow the indigenous to assimilate so they can transcend discrimination? Should we push for measures that facilitate the maintenance of cultural ties? Or should we establish a system that enables self-empowerment and diminishes the pressure to assimilate? It’s interesting how quickly your opinion can change when you put yourself in someone else’s shoes.

Over the last week, classes have really picked up speed. We don’t have homework assignments or true exams, just readings, essays and projects.

...continue reading "Assimilation or Empowerment: to blend in or to stick out"