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By rmattiola

This last week was writing week. A week full of headaches and confusion and maybe even some tears if I’m being completely honest. My roommate told me the other day, “This is like finals but a month long instead of a week long”. Thank god for roommates.

This week I was finally able to listen to music while working since I’m no longer transcribing interviews. Often when I listen to music I get a little caught up in the beats or the lyrics and go on song investigation sprees. On one of these youtube browsing-npr podcast searching-consequence of sound-reading expeditions on Bon Iver’s new album, I found a press conference where he answered questions about song titles and lyric inspiration.

He described a soul-searching traveling experience that landed him on Greek islands, stranded and helpless. He started to sing a line to himself, “this might be over soon”. He recorded the verse one night and apparently didn’t make any more music until the next year. So he had this one verse to keep listening to over and over again. Eventually he said, a part of his voice sounded like he was saying 2, 2. This number 22 represented duality for him, and he eventually applied this concept of duality to the line “it might be over soon”. One could be saying, “Thank god, it might be over soon” or “Geez, I can’t believe it, how sad, it might be over soon”.

...continue reading "It might be over soon"

By rmattiola

It’s time to talk about this. I am perpetually congested here in the beautiful south. I returned from Puerto Saavedra to Temuco on Thursday to play field hockey. Once I arrived, I received a text telling me practice was cancelled due to “environmental emergency”. I asked, what does that mean? My friend explained that all the wood burning stoves and heaters in the towns and city produce so much smoke which gets trapped and can dangerously effect their health if they were to vigorously exercise outdoors for 2 hours. On the bus rides back during the evening, I noticed flumes of smoke hovering over the semi-suburban villages outside the city. I couldn’t help but think about Chile’s carbon footprint. Let’s start with excessive wood burning. Toss in acres and acres of cows—happy cows. Recall the constant tacos (traffic jams) throughout all the cities. Wrap it all up with the fact that recycling is essentially non-existent. Loads of plastic and glass get thrown in with food scraps. It’s infuriating. But remind yourself of the 20 or so wind turbines you saw in the desert to Atacama. And remind yourself that the people are just living the system put in place for them by their government. All this though is especially confusing when I listen to my indigenous interviewees teaching me about their strong connection to naturaleza, and how we are all born from mother earth. What’s even weirder is that plenty of people talk about climate change. Not only do they believe it, but they’re experiencing it. And yet they sit, subversive to their government that’s not mandating clean energy and providing extensive recycling services. I vowed to go back to the U.S. and live as environmentally clean as I can. I plan to go completely vegetarian again… nearly vegan due to my lactose intolerance. I plan to learn more than I already do about recycling and sorting. I’ll ride my bike around Coopersburg, like I did when I was a tween. I’ll eat local crops from my dad’s Co-op and the town farmer’s market. I’ll go out to all those rallies back in DC on the national mall, in front of the white house and congress building, and demand a transition to clean energy. If you know me, you’ve heard this before, so I’ll move on.

...continue reading "Wood Burning Stoves and Anthropological Woes"

By rmattiola

My first week in Temuco has flown by too quickly. I am conducting my independent research project here in the south, with the city of Temuco as my basepoint and the towns of Makewe, Puerto Saavedra and Nuevo Imperial as the study centers. The three SIT girls in Temuco are the first group to stay within the city. One girl opted for a cheap hostel as her monthly residence. Sarah and I took up an offer to stay with the family of our friendly bus driver from when we traveled the south a month ago. This is my fourth host family. Originally, I was hoping to rent an apartment on airbnb with the other girls in order to have the most independence and be able to cook for myself, but I figured if given the opportunity to speak more Spanish, I should take it. Also the bus driver, don Pepe was probably the nicest, coolest gentleman we’ve traveled with. I struck gold with this decision. The living situation is perfect. Sarah and I are staying in a gorgeous new apartment in the University district of Temuco. Our host mom, Cecilia, don Pepe’s sister, is a statistician and a math professor at 3 different universities (there are 5 all within a 10 minute drive of the apartment). She is obviously a successful woman, but clearly works hard for her success. I arrived Tuesday evening and did not meet her until Saturday morning. She leaves the apartment by 7am and does not return until of after 11pm. I awoke with a congested head Wednesday morning, and was asleep before 10:30pm the rest of the week. On Saturday I kicked the worst of the cold and was eager to meet Cecilia.

...continue reading "Temuco: Home away from Home"

By rmattiola

When I came back to Arica 2 weeks ago, I felt like I was seeing it for the first time, free of judgment, with eyes wide open. When I left over a month ago, I was tired of the depressed desert, eager to escape the sand and wind. But now, I’m beginning to feel like I don’t want to leave. Of course, at the end of the journey I am finally comfortable. Today I attended the last group meeting before we travel off to our independent investigation locations. Some of my friends are leaving today to hike the W in Patagonia before starting their project. I’m incredibly surprised they pulled it off. I’ll be even more surprised to hear their stories when we return together. I’m heading out tomorrow on a night bus to the town of San Pedro de Atacama, a desert oasis and geological haven. Also home to some of the largest telescopes/ satellites in the world called ALMA. I expect the sights in both the day and the night to be spectacular.

Today, and only today, did I realize that I made some incredible friends on this journey—without trying. I did not seek out friends; rather I allowed relationships to form organically, almost accidentally. Of course I am going to miss everyone over the next month, but I will be eagerly awaiting my reunion with Catherine, Madeline, Rosie and Minerva. Yes, the Rosie/ Rosie issue developed quite early on, so I decided to go exclusively by Rosalie during my time in Chile. Madeline and Rosie are funny Midwestern runners. Catherine is an upstate New York sweetheart with witty, dry sarcasm. Minerva is a sassy, tranquil, Mexican partier. All are great company one on one or together.

The trip to San Pedro was the most relaxing and exciting trip thus far. Well worth the time and money. I took in spectacular sights with 4 other girls, learned a surprisingly large amount of geographical and cultural information, and met tourists from all over the world. On our second day trip, we formed lovely and all too brief friendships with our tour guide, a 22 year old girl named Andrea from Santiago, and the other 5 tourists.

...continue reading "Vacationing but still Learning"

I did it. I can finally say I have experienced the full Chilean culture. Last Saturday, I came home from a night out at 5am, like a true joven chilena. It was the most fun I’ve had yet. The key is to not arrive at the discotec until 1am or even 1:30am when the DJ starts to play the good reggaeton and the dancing gets serious. After that, the hours fly by dancing and laughing with old and new friends. I would have been especially proud of myself if I made it home after my host brothers, but alas, they arrived raucously sometime after 6am from their own carretes (house parties).

Although this weekend was serious fun, this week is serious business. I have been working furiously to complete written assignments, group essays, project proposals and Spanish exams. At the same time I am planning trips to San Pedro de Atacama and Pucón, finding housing and transportation in the Temuco region, and communicating with advisors and other contacts to set up interviews and observations. Oh and I selected courses for next semester and confirmed a summer subletter for life back in DC.

This is a busy, yet exciting time. The “classroom” based portion of the program has ended and the independent research project portion has begun. Although it is still in the process of development, I can explain what I hope I will be investigating. I am interested in the adaptation and modernization of traditional treatments.

...continue reading "Dancing Away my Responsibilities"

By rmattiola

Our trip to Santiago seemed a bit like an obligatory stop at a tourist destination. Nonetheless, we acquired more important information regarding public health and traditional cultures. The two most educational aspects of this week were our visit to the Panamerican World Health Organization and a community ruka (traditional hut) in a highly indigenous section of Santiago called La Pintana. Our group was fortunate enough to have been the first of SIT to have this small conference with the Panamerican World Health Organization.

The information was pertinent and well organized, but I’d like to focus this blog on the observations and information gained from our visit to the urban ruka. Unfortunately, for some reason I struggled to understand a large part of the lectures in the ruka. I felt frustrated and disappointed to know that I was missing out on very important material. Regardless, I feel responsible to share the little information I gathered. It is necessary to share these experiences in order to help make the Mapuche voice heard.

There is an obvious clash between the Mapuche and the government. It seems some are even resistant to the laws and organizations put in place to improve their situation. Our director in Makewe (a community outside Temuco) seemed disguisted with PESPI, the government organization that focuses on the health of indigenous people. This well-spoken, intelligent, calm, professional Mapuche leader crinkled his nose and crossed his pointer fingers in the form of an X when he heard we would be lectured from a PESPI leader.

...continue reading "Urban resistance"

I have a confession. Study abroad is not all pretty views and happy times. Superficially, it can seem like a photo under the Eiffel tower with a picnic blanket splayed of wine and strawberries. In reality though, there are days when we all question what we’re doing here. Those feelings are exasperated by unfortunate situations like 3 week-long traveler’s diarrhea, colds from freezing weather and kitchen smoke, and bed bugs.

Yes, I have experienced my fill of each of these unfortunate conditions. I think it is important to share this “dark side” of study abroad not to scare anyone away from the experience, but to highlight reality. Our social media world is often all too positive. This false reality sets unreachable standards, contributing to disappointment and mental insecurities. I feel that my experience is very real. The reality is, I go to the bathroom expecting there to not be toilet paper or soap—even in the health centers. When someone tells me, “yes, there is wifi” I expect the connection to be shaky at best, and nearly impossible to work with.

The truth is, it is difficult to travel for a month with 23 other compañeros constantly by your side. I envy moments like this, sitting in a café, thinking, writing, and sipping house [tea] on my own. I admit all these negativities in order overcome them and emphasize the positive aspects. Although all these undesirable traits exist, everyday I am grateful for the landscape, the culture, the people, the new knowledge and the overall beauty radiating from all forms of life. Now that I have acknowledged the bad and the ugly, we can go on to the plentiful good. Perhaps this can be a new addition to my weekly blogs—highs and lows.

...continue reading "The Good, The Bad and The Ugly"

By rmattiola

"We are all children of mother earth"

In Chile, there are about 10 recognized indigenous groups, although many others exist. The largest two are the Aymara (or Aimara) of the extreme north (aka the region of Arica and Parinacota) and the Mapuche of the Central- South (Arancunia Region).

During class, we received small details about each group, and we occasionally can pick up on personal opinions, but it seems like the program is encouraging us learn directly from the indigenous, rather than from a secondary source from an outsider’s perspective. We quickly learned the significance of Pacha mama (Mother earth) and Inti (Sun) from various artisans and educators in Arica, but I was craving more information.

I was fascinated by a brief lesson taught in a Spanish class about the Andian Cosmovisión (roughly translates to “world view”). The surviving Andian communities are the Quechua and Aymara who share many aspects of their world beliefs. This ancient group is thought to have migrated from Lake Titicaca in Tiwanhaku, Bolivia to the coast of Chile and Peru well before the conquistadors arrived in Latin America. We learned of the strong community connection rooted in familiar ties between the inhabitants of Aymara towns. Apparently, the hardest and most important work is often shared. The whole community will come together to dig a canal, or plant seeds, or harvest potatoes, and then feast together afterwards. We learned of the belief in 3 worlds:

Uku or Alak pacha: the world below the earth; the roots; where the dead live—but not to be mistaken for “underworld”—uku pacha has a lighter connotation. It is a respectful resting place, rather than a punishment. In fact, apparently the Aymara will pour out a little wine or milk or liquor on the ground for their ancestors (called antepasados) before drinking the beverage themselves.

...continue reading "Putre: “Somos todos hijos de la madre tierra”"

By rmattiola

Thus far, I’ve toured and observed 6 health centers with in the public sector: Two CESFAM (centro de salud familiar: Family Health Center) one CESCOF (centro comunitario de salud familiar: Community Family Health Center) one Posta Rural (rural post), UNACESS (la unidad de atención y control en salud sexual:a sexual health center) and Teleton (a center for children with motor disabilities).

A brief explanation of the private and public system before I begin with my observations and opinions:

The public system is entirely government run. In fact, the level of government involvement in health care is surprising. It is easy to classify their system of health care as “socialized” although it is not universal. However, there is still an obvious connection to social medicine (which studies the social determinants of health). Between 80 and 90% of Chileans have public insurance called FONASA (Fondo Nacional de Salud) which has 4 levels, A, B,C, and D. Those with A and B receive free health care. Those with C and D pay a percentage of their fees to the government for their health care (10% and 30%, respectively). The public sector adequately covers primary care, although the region of Arica and Parincota is seriously lacking in emergency care centers, and specialists. In fact, there is only one SAPU (urgent care center) and one hospital where specialists are difficult to utilize. Apparently, all the specialists are concentrated in Santiago.

Regarding the private system, I only know that insurance is much more expensive, there are more specialists, and wait times are supposedly shorter (there is plenty of justified complaining from locals about wait times in both sectors). As far as I know, the government only regulates the private industry and has no other involvement.

...continue reading "Chilean Health Care 101"

By rmattiola

I am almost bothered by how constantly I am noting cultural variations. I need to actively tell myself to turn off—stop thinking—just enjoy. Here are some of those never ending cultural observations:

  • Besos (kisses): Here in Chile, and in most of Latin/ Central America, the greetings are more intimate. Handshakes are reserved for men. I made this mistake early on based on instinct, and felt the discomfort from the other person and those watching. Friends of friends and family of friends are automatically qualified for cheek kisses. I’ve even seen doctors give besos to their patients after the appointment. I was nervous about this new greeting style since my family and friends at home are much more casual with greetings, and I had little to no practice with cheek kisses. But I’ve found it’s much less stressful than I thought--the kiss is merely putting your right cheeks together and making a kissing noise while you half hug or place your hand on the other’s shoulder. The Chileans are smoother than I am, and I sometimes feel like I’m crashing into the other’s cheek rather than gently meeting them. The angle of the kiss changes on the intimacy between the couple. For example, family members and close friends will often turn to actually plant a kiss on the other’s cheek. We were warned to be cautious of how close our “kiss” lands to the other person’s mouth, because if you even remotely get close to a kiss on the lips, you are understood to be making an advance towards the other person.
  • Dogs: dogs are everywhere! Most people have one or more dogs, and there is a surplus of street dogs. I hear dog “fights” frequently. Usually these “fights” are more or less playful, and people are unconcerned, but they are very noisy, and last all night.
  • Doorbells: When the doorbell rings, it’s not commonplace to get up and answer it right away. They wait, almost ignore it, talk about who it might be, and after a few minutes will get it.
  • Time: many of the girls in the group are having a hard time adjusting to Chilean time. I however, am thriving in it. It’s normal--and expected--for locals to arrive 30 minutes to 1 hour late to any event that is not class. I believe that this lateness is actually respectful, because if you arrive on time or early to a party, the host might not be fully prepared.

...continue reading "Field Notes"