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Spending Lunar New Year in Kathmandu

I’ve celebrated Lunar New Year every year of my life, but since attending college, I haven’t been able to celebrate with my family. This time of year is usually when I get the most homesick which is why I was so excited to have a host family to celebrate with this year. In Tibetan, the New Year is called Losar and it turned out to be really different from what I’m used to. I came with the expectation that the streets would be extremely festive with colorful decorations and people bustling trying to prepare for the holiday. However, Nepal is actually majority Hindu and huge festivals regarding Losar have been suppressed by the government due to Chinese pressure to silence and oppress Tibetan people and Tibetan Buddhism. So in many ways, the act of celebrating was, by nature, politicized. It was a really unique experience to be in a country where this celebration that was so familiar to me became somewhat foreign.

The Baudha Stupa decorated for Losar

The Religious Importance

For Chinese people, visiting monasteries and temples for New Year is a part of celebrating, but definitely not the main event. However, for Tibetans, the first day of Losar is dedicated to visiting all the religious sites around town, almost like a mini pilgrimage. At each temple, you kick off your shoes, and enter into a holy space where you offer money, pray, conduct prostrations, and take refuge in the Buddha. It may not be the most glamorous part of the celebration, but is definitely one of the most important traditions. Being in temple felt safe and like a piece of home was here in Kathmandu.

Inside a monastery where people make offerings

 

Gambling

Although Tibetans don’t have outrageous public celebrations, that doesn’t mean they don’t know how to have fun. Tibetans have a slight obsession with playing cards for the New Year. Many people, like my pa la (host dad) only take three days off from work a year for Losar. And they truly love playing cards like nobody’s business. My host family was up until 2 AM gambling on the last day of Lonsar and STILL got up at 5 AM to go to work. If that’s not dedication, then I don’t know what is.

 

Dressing Up

One of my favorite parts of Losar was being able to dress up in traditional Tibetan clothing. The traditional dress worn by both men and women is called the chuba which consist of a robe fastened at the waist. Underneath, you may be a Tibetan shirt that has a high mandarin collar and attaches across the body, and is usually made with detailed silk fabric. Not only are the outfit super beautiful, but also show how Tibetans are keeping their culture alive even in Nepal. By wearing traditional outfits of Tibet, they hold on to an identity that was trying to be forced out and are able to continue passing it down to their children.


Wearing a trational Tibetan shirt for Losar