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By sheldonwongg

One of the really unique aspects about doing an SIT Program is that they all have a one month attached independent study project (ISP) to culminate the end of the semester. During the ISP, you are allowed to travel to anywhere that is relevant to the program focus and given free range to research any topic of your interest. I only have one week left of my ISP time, but it has been one of the most eye opening and educational experiences of my life. I decided to go to Dharamsala, the “capital” of Tibetans in exile. I’ve spent the last three weeks apprenticing a local small business clothing company to learn more about how emerging Tibetan designers use traditional clothing as inspiration for their contemporary designs. I’ve been going into the workshop and working with the tailors to make clothes. I even got to design a few garments. I set out to gain some perspective on what Tibetan clothing means for a group of people that have evolve in exile, and I’m walking away from a deeper understanding of how nuanced this idea of fashion, especially in the context of identity, can be. This experience has given me so much first-hand knowledge about the livelihoods of those who seek to creative and to do so with integrity to their identity.

 

Getting to do an ISP in India is also really cool because it is like I get to study abroad in two countries. Despite being in majority Tibetan communities in Nepal and India, Dharamsala has been really unique from my experience in Nepal. In my few weeks here, I’ve reunited myself with a variety of food that doesn’t include dal bhat, explored little Israel, and walked a lot of hills. I even met the Dalai Lama and got to attend a teaching by him. It’s my last week in Dharamsala before I head back to Nepal for the final week of study abroad, so I’m trying to soak up all of the beauty in Dharamsala before I leave.

I'm not gonna front, before I came to Nepal, I was worried about what it meant to experience poverty. I came with a lot of misconceptions of what it means to live in a country that was deemed poor by outsiders. And sure enough, the first day was a shocking experience. I came off the plane with hundreds of people swarming luggage claim and taxi drivers trying to get anyone to get into their car. But my time in Nepal has taught me that poverty is only a concept. Just because someone makes a certain amount of money, we label them in categories to describe their happiness and self-worth. In reality, poverty is only what we make of it. Yes, my host families in Nepal and India may be, by a definition, poor, but that does not mean that they are deprived of something. In fact, they are happier than most people I know back home. Just from the glimpse of their lives that they have shared with me, their lives are never packing anything. There's always three square meals, things to do, and lots of love to be distributed. So many times in my life, I've equated money and the amount of material things I have ownership over to happiness. Somehow the less I had meant I would be less happy.

It’s been eye opening to see how people across the world live their lives. One that is filled with joy and love and not lacking in any sense. Humans are incredibly resilient, they make due with they lives, and find ways to live abundantly with whatever they have. It really puts things into perspective. I have been thinking a lot about my return to the United States, the life I live and the meaning of the things I own. This experience has helped me realize how my life is lived in measurements of what I need rather than what I have. It’s hard to unlearn what I have been socialized to prioritize, but it’s a lesson that I’m grateful to have learned.

 

By sheldonwongg

“Oh, you’re going to Nepal? That’s … different.”

That most common response I receive when I tell people that I’ll be spending four months in Nepal (Other than where it’s located on the globe) is what I would even gain from going halfway around the world to study a subject that doesn’t even directly relate to my major. I’ve always found this question to be a little preemptive and perhaps a little ignorant. Travelling has always been a source of knowledge and inspiration for me. Whether it was a day trip to a neighboring state, or a month long trek across the world, being somewhere new was always welcomed. In fact, it become somewhat of an addiction. I craved the long bus rides and getting lost in a new city, connecting with new people. It was clear to me that anytime we set forth on a journey that is out of our comfort zones and beyond the realm of our perspectives, we give ourselves room to grow as a human being. Experiencing the world through my own eyes, ears, and touch is one of life’s greatest teachers.
Many of my more practical relatives and friends often ask me about why I spend money to travel instead of saving it for long term investments like a house, a car, or retirement. I can barely decide what I want to eat for lunch tomorrow, let alone a mortgage. And saving money for a retirement that I’m not certain to achieve seems like overkill to me. In John Avedon’s, “In Exile From the Land of Snows”, he simply states that, “If in this present atmosphere, in which everything depends on money and power, and there is not much concern about the real value of love, if we human beings now lose the values of justice, of compassion, of honestly, then in the future we will face more difficulty; more suffering will come (411).” The pressures of achieving a conventionally successfully life often arises in my thoughts, yet when I am travelling, I am brought back to compassion and love for the world. Material objects become unimportant as I am reminded of the greater forces in life driving me.
Living in an entirely new country for four months is completely different from any type of travel I’ve ever done. In many ways, I am forced to look at how I currently live my life and reexamine how it will operate in the context of living in Nepal for an extended period of time. Already, I am discovering what it means to take from the Earth and (literally) carry it on my back. In many ways, I have quickly learned the lesson of less is more. Most importantly, this trip is different because it feels like a pause on life. A break from the stresses of everyday life, thoughts about the future, and intrusive internal thoughts. It feels like a lesson in happiness and I’m so excited to learn.

“Even if we do not succeed in this life, that is all right; but at least we have tried to build a better human society on the basis of love.”

By maxleo43

You will oftentimes hear people talk about the difference between a house and a home. From my experience living in cities, I have found that the turning point occurs once there is a community surrounding your house. It becomes a home when you have people you care about around you, and a physical environment that you appreciate. At GW, I found this very quickly. I made fast friends with my neighbors in my dorm and fell into a rhythm within a few weeks of arriving on campus. Despite living in three different buildings during my year and a half on campus, I found continuity throughout and always felt a sense of attachment to my house. At GW, my house was almost instantly my home. While it took a little longer, I had developed a similar feeling here in Shanghai, until last week when my community changed.

I live in an apartment complex that is slightly down the street from Fudan University’s campus. My building has 12 stories, with no one living on the first floor. The backside of my building faces a two-lane street called Wudong Road. On the backside of the building, there were several businesses including two convenience stores, a western food stall, a cell phone stand, a Korean restaurant with a to-go window, a wonton soup stall, a fried rice stall, another Korean food stall, and a sit-down restaurant. These are the only businesses within a quarter mile of our building, and so they were always popular with all of the international students who lived in the apartment complex. Essentially it would be like living in Potomac Hall and having four or five additional restaurants next to Carvings. It created a community and was just a part of everyone’s lives.

Then it all came to an end this week when the police shut all of the food stalls and restaurants down, with the exception of the final sit-down restaurant listed above. It first started with the police showing up on Sunday night and telling all of the businesses to close up and hanging tarps over their entrances. Then on Monday, the police came and destroyed all of their equipment. Then on Tuesday, several men showed up and piled cinder blocks in front of the stands and completed closed off the restaurants with blocks and mortar. I have heard several rumors as to why the food stalls got shut down but have yet to actually find any solid evidence.

...continue reading "Sense of Community"

By sheldonwongg

One of the things I wasn’t prepared for when I came to Nepal was the mistaking of my identity and how common it would be. Pretty much from day one, people came up to me speaking Nepali and mistaking for a plethora of ethnicities. Coming from a strong Chinese American heritage and the diverse culture of the United States, the case of mistaken identity in Nepal was an unexpected challenge I’ve had to navigate in during my time here. In the US, I almost never get mistaken as anything other than Chinese and if I do, most people have a pretty easy time understand how I can be Chinese AND American. Here in Nepal, people’s gut reaction is to assume that I’m Nepali, and since I interact with a lot of Tibetans, I often blend in with them as well. When I tell them I’m Chinese and I’m from America, I can see the gears in their brain working. They ask, “But where are you from from?” Or “But where are your parents from?” Even though I’m ethnically Chinese, my parents were born in Vietnam and escaped as refugees during the war. Often times, they walk away more confused than before and at first, I was frustrated with my lack of ability to effectively communicate the complex history of my family. It took a lot of thinking to fully comprehend how, even though Nepal is multiethnic and multilingual, the populations perceptions of identities and physical appearance weren’t as detached as mine were. Their perceptions of Americans stems from this idealization of whiteness and despite the reality of America being an extremely diverse country, the fantasy that exists in their minds have a hard time accepting this. By no means is this phenomenon their fault, they are only reflecting what they have been acculturated to, but does bring up the larger questions of what validates a person identity and how that relates in a larger context.

By sheldonwongg

Studying in Nepal is not exactly your traditional study abroad experience. From the transportation, to the customs, to the everyday nuances, you'll find differences from every angle. However, I could not be more grateful to be studying in Kathmandu. In so many ways, I have begun to understand the ways in which the world operates and dismantle the associations I have instilled in myself. I think one of the biggest surprises I've encountered since coming to Nepal was just how wrong my preconceived notions of Nepal and Tibet were. Like most people, I thought Tibetans floated on air and didn't have the capacity to get mad at people. However, they are human, just like any other group. It sounds silly looking back in hindsight, but these stereotypes are ingrained in us and it takes a lot of reflect to fully understand how deeply embedded our ideas of the world are. The greatest form of learning I've done here in Nepal is unlearning. Unlearning what it means to be part of a global society, to associate two things together, to question the purpose of systematic belief.

 

One of the most humbling moments of this trip was hearing Tibetans thanking us for coming to study Tibetan and calling us courageous for being able to leave our country and travel to a place like Nepal and India. It really hit hard to realize how incredibly lucky I am to be able to travel and see life like this, but also have the comfort of knowing that it is temporary and that life as it is right now is only a point in time; a fleeting moment before I move on. I am constantly reminding myself that because of pure luck, I'm in this position and because of luck, they are in that position. I think one of the conversations I had with a member of my homestay sums it up pretty well. He said: Take what you learned here and don't forget about us [Tibetans], but when you go home, you have a place to stay, food to eat. All you have to do is be a good person.

By sheldonwongg

So let me tell you about the food situation here in Nepal. Nepal's food has always been an unique mix of it's neighbors and the multitude of ethnic groups living in Nepal. Being in Nepal, you'll find a huge variety of foods that have it's origins from all over the world. For my program, our focus is learning about Tibetan history and culture so I also eat a lot of staple Tibetan dishes. Here are some of the classic Nepali and Tibetan foods you'll find if you find yourself in Nepal:

 

Dal Bhat

The national food of Nepal, Dal Bhat is a staple of any Nepali household. It consists of lentil soup and rice, and is often served with other various vegetables. Each family has a unique recipe and there are dozens of different variations. Originating from India, it has not only become a common household meal, but part of the livelihood of the people of Nepal.

 

Momos

Momos are probably the holy grail of dinners here in Nepal. Similar to dumplings, these are decedent bite sized balls of dough filled either with meat or vegetables. When done right, each Momo will be filled with hot and steamy juices that will send your taste buds into overdrive. They are best served with homemade chili sauce (the spicier, the better).

...continue reading "The Food of Nepal (And Tibet)"

By sheldonwongg

I’ve been in Kathmandu for roughly two months now and it has been a non-stop whirl wind of a time. During my time here, I have been exploring all of Kathmandu and have come up with a list of must-dos if you ever find yourself in this busy busy city.

 

Boudha Stupa

My home! I’ve been living with a Tibetan family in Boudha, Kathmandu during my time here and it’s considered one of the greatest sites for spirituality in Tibetan Buddhism. It is the largest stupa in the world and thousands of years old. While you’re here, make sure you do some Korra (circumambulating around the stupa), but make sure you are walking clockwise. Many believe that doing korra will earn good merit in life and led to a prosperous life. The stupa is also home to many shops and restaurants that will keep your time (and wallets) for the day.

 

Ason Markets

If you love to shop like I do, then Ason is the go to place for you. Here, you will find the best authentic bazaar shopping in the Kathmandu valley. You can find anything from traditional kurtas, to modern clothing, to miles of accessories, and souvenirs for friends. One of the really unique things that is available in Nepal is really cheap tailoring. My favorite activity is going to a fabric shop to pick out a fabric I think is super cool, then getting it tailored into a custom one of a kind shirt.

...continue reading "The Must-Dos When You Are in Kathmandu"

By sheldonwongg

Before travelling to Nepal, I spent a huge deal of my time researching Nepal, watching vlogs of people travelling through, and reading about the best spots to hit up while studying here. I created a fantasy land, one that would never be able to match the reality of Nepal. For those with preconceived notions of what this country is, no, it is not miles and miles of mountains. Nor is it starving beggars lining the streets of cities. Nepal is a complex and multi-cultural country that is not what I expected a developing country to be. It wasn’t all snow-capped mountains, but also smog and dust. And everywhere I looked, I could see the diversity that Nepal has to offer. There are men in business suits and little children in school uniforms. I came with the belief that I would be totally engrossed in an experience that was completely humbling and life changing. I thought that my semester in Nepal would be filled with constant adventure and experiences that would be pivotal to my life. In my time here in Nepal, I’ve realized that life here in Kathmandu can be just as mundane as it is in America.

 

Yes, I’ve gotten to do really amazing things like stay with a total of five different Tibetan families, hike around the highest mountain range in the world, and see some of the most sacred Buddhist and Hindu sites to exist. But all of that is exceptional, most of my days are filled with studying for Tibetan quizzes and trying to make friends in a completely new country. I think the biggest reality I faced was understanding how the little things in my semester here would end up leaving the biggest impact. All the monasteries and mountains have blurred together, but the nights playing cards and laughter that ensued from the misadventures will stick with me forever.

I’ve celebrated Lunar New Year every year of my life, but since attending college, I haven’t been able to celebrate with my family. This time of year is usually when I get the most homesick which is why I was so excited to have a host family to celebrate with this year. In Tibetan, the New Year is called Losar and it turned out to be really different from what I’m used to. I came with the expectation that the streets would be extremely festive with colorful decorations and people bustling trying to prepare for the holiday. However, Nepal is actually majority Hindu and huge festivals regarding Losar have been suppressed by the government due to Chinese pressure to silence and oppress Tibetan people and Tibetan Buddhism. So in many ways, the act of celebrating was, by nature, politicized. It was a really unique experience to be in a country where this celebration that was so familiar to me became somewhat foreign.

The Baudha Stupa decorated for Losar

...continue reading "Spending Lunar New Year in Kathmandu"