I have a confession. Study abroad is not all pretty views and happy times. Superficially, it can seem like a photo under the Eiffel tower with a picnic blanket splayed of wine and strawberries. In reality though, there are days when we all question what we’re doing here. Those feelings are exasperated by unfortunate situations like 3 week-long traveler’s diarrhea, colds from freezing weather and kitchen smoke, and bed bugs.
Yes, I have experienced my fill of each of these unfortunate conditions. I think it is important to share this “dark side” of study abroad not to scare anyone away from the experience, but to highlight reality. Our social media world is often all too positive. This false reality sets unreachable standards, contributing to disappointment and mental insecurities. I feel that my experience is very real. The reality is, I go to the bathroom expecting there to not be toilet paper or soap—even in the health centers. When someone tells me, “yes, there is wifi” I expect the connection to be shaky at best, and nearly impossible to work with.
The truth is, it is difficult to travel for a month with 23 other compañeros constantly by your side. I envy moments like this, sitting in a café, thinking, writing, and sipping house [tea] on my own. I admit all these negativities in order overcome them and emphasize the positive aspects. Although all these undesirable traits exist, everyday I am grateful for the landscape, the culture, the people, the new knowledge and the overall beauty radiating from all forms of life. Now that I have acknowledged the bad and the ugly, we can go on to the plentiful good. Perhaps this can be a new addition to my weekly blogs—highs and lows.
This week was a whirlwind. Last Saturday we arrived in Temuco, the capital of the region of Araucanía, named after the monkey-puzzle tree that grows in the mountains. We spent a night in the city, which we explored in the rain before leaving the next day for a rural town called Makewe. Classes started in Makewe as soon as we arrived—we were surprised to enter ceremoniously into a ruka (a traditional Mapuche hut) for our first lecture.
That evening we were dropped off at our homestays in Makewe. I was and still am enamored by the quaint farm and warm, comical family I was placed into. Quaint is perhaps too small of a term since the farm was about 30 acres with at least 30 pigs, a handful of piglets, turkeys, crowds of chicken, chicks and roosters, a half dozen cows and bulls, geese, sheep, bees, a 90 year old apple orchard, 25 year old grape vines, vegetable gardens, an overflow of cats and kittens and 2 playful, happy puppies.
My host mom, Mercedes, reminded me of my grandma—a hard worker with a kind, healthy heart. She taught my roommate and me how to make bread, flip "tortillas" (very thick vegetable pancakes) and make traditional Mapuche drinks. We were fortunate to share laughs with the “family” (the neighbors) every night we spent with them.
Pictured: Makewe family Mercedes and Allison (student)
Later in the week, we ventured into the woods with a lawentuchefe, a Mapuche herbalist where we learned about the spirituality of plants.
Several other classes were taught each day until Wednesday when we received the“town study” assignment, endearingly termed Survival Araucanía. The 24 of us were split into groups and given a town with the only guidance to “get to know the area”. Finally independent, we were dropped off at the bus terminal in Temuco and waved goodbye. We found our way to Puerto Saavedra, a coastal tourist town, nearly empty when we arrived in the pouring rain.Shivering, we braved the rain and climbed the hilly port town. We spoke with the friendly, curious locals, conducting a total of 11 informal interviews with garden keepers, bar owners, waitresses, restaurant patrons, and the director of the hospital.After 2 nights we took the bus back to Temuco and then to Makewe where we reunited with the host family for one last lunch before leaving for Pucon.
In Pucon we presented the powerpoints about the towns and held open debriefing sessions. In between classes, we explored the breathtaking mountain lakes, waterfalls and thermal baths. Our time in Pucon is too short and the safety restrictions a bit too strong. I will have to return to fully experience this exciting area.
Pictured: Ojos de Caburgua (waterfall) and Volcano Villarrica
I have noticed some patterns throughout Chile.
- The people are kind and enjoy talking to and helping foreigners
- The animals are amiable and accustomed to human life (even falcons sit on park benches… there are lots of falcons in the south)
- The food is rarely gastronomically intriguing. This may be because I rarely eat in restaurants, but of those restaurants I have visited, I was not amazed with the food. Meat, carbs and oils are the staples.
- Stop light performers and vendors can be found in every city, juggling, dancing and soliciting.
- Severely underutilized outdoors exercise equipment is inharmoniously placed throughout every town. I've grown to despise these exercise machines.
- The government loves to publicize itself. Billboards are posted all too frequently to remind the citizens of all the great efforts their government has made.
Mapuzungun word of the week: mari mari: hello