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By rbhargava

Just a few minutes ago I arrived back from my week-long spring break vacation. Along with 5 Germans, another American, and a Chinese student I went on an epic road trip through much of the Western Cape and parts of the Eastern Cape. We drove two sedans over 3,300km and having just gotten back, I am quite speechless about the experience. I hope to capture some of the thrills, adventures, and joys of this trip in this blog post.

The trip started last Friday afternoon when we all left for the Cederberg Mountains, a few hours north of Stellenbosch. We camped in the mountains that night, and wow does it get cold at night. On Saturday we hiked the Wolfberg Cracks, an amazing hike in the mountains that takes you through very narrow cracks in the mountain, many of which you have to squeeze through by going sideways through cracks, climbing over rocks, or even sliding below small openings in the rock formations. Following the hike we drove several more hours to our campsite right on the beach in the Namaqua National Park. Our campsite was right below a beautiful lighthouse, and we arrived late at night so that the eerie beachside campsite was covered in fog, with the only light coming from the lighthouse right above us and a bright moon approaching its full moon stage. We spent a day in a half in Namaqua, going to completely empty beaches, seeing flamingos in a tidal pool, and visiting the famous Namaqua wild flowers which are only in season for a few weeks (but our trip was timed perfectly during peak season). What a sight it was to see fields and fields of blooming wild flowers!

After two nights of camping right on the beach and baring the cold nights far away from civilization (the campsite only had a "enviro" toilet...no running water, to indoor facilities, nothing...), we took another long drive to the Augrabies Falls National Park.  The falls are known to be the 6th largest in the world, and we were lucky enough to camp in another beautiful sight just a few hundred meters away from the fall, so that even in our tents we could hear the roaring of the waterfall. At Augrabies we were able to drive our cars through a game reserve, relax in a swimming pool, hike around the waterfall, and even go on a night game drive run by the national park. Coincidentally, we ran into other friends from Stellenbosch at Augrabies, a pleseant reminder that South Africa is coming more and more like home to me, where no place is too unfamiliar that I won't recognize a face or two. We ended up running into even more friends much later on the trip, but that story is for another day.

After two nights camping in Augrabie, sleeping in the cold (again) and waking up to baboons raiding the campsite and dassies (rock hyraxes), we left for Witsand Nature Reserve. Witsand is part of the Kalahari group, and famous for sand dunes that "roar" in the wind. With only half a day to enjoy Witsand before our next destination, we walked across the great sand dunes and went sandboarding down one of the largest dunes we could find. The experience was like no other, although my few trips down on the boards always ended with a wipeout, one of which was a face first crash into the sand. A few of us ended up finding much more pleasure in rolling down the sand dunes and picking up a ridiculous amount of speed before crashing at the bottom. Once again, we camped at Witsand, and the Kalahari night was, no surprise, quite cold.

Our next stop on the trip was Camdeboo National Park in the middle of the Karoo, a 7-8 hour drive from Witsand. We spent the entire day driving, and arrived at our campsite within the national park as the sun was setting. The next day we drove up to the Valley of Desolation and saw some amazing rock formations on top of the mountains. We then left for the final leg of our trip, the popular "Garden Route" along the south-western part of the South Africa coast. With only a day and a half free before needing to head back to Stellenbosch, we squeezed in a canoeing trip upriver to a waterfall, some hiking, and brief whale watching on a cliff, although unfortunately none of us spotted any whales.

Coming back to Stellies, I'm now much more appreciative of a mattress and sleeping indoors, having spent several nights in a row sleeping in 40-45 degrees on sand, gravel, rocks, and any other uncomfortable surface one could imagine. I've also come to really appreciate and love South Africa as the country is so vast, and almost every landscape you drive through is breathtaking. We covered over 3000+ kilometers in one massive circular drive, but have yet to cover the surface of what there is to see in this country. The trip also made me feel more and more drawn to Stellenbosch, and all those cold nights camping made me think about my bed at my "home" in Stellenbosch rather than my home back in the states. It's great to be back in Stellies, but I can't wait to get back on the road when the semester ends and continue venturing around the country.

By clairemac93

I learned through growing up in a small town in Pennsylvania that if you wanted to go somewhere, it was going to take a lot of creative energy to do so. It was my first introduction to transportation issues, and one that lasted quite a long time until I got my driver’s license and a car half way through my last year in high school. As such, the way to get around in a place is one of the first things I notice.

In Stellenbosch there isn’t much to share. Stellenbosch is out on its own- about an hour outside of Cape Town. Within the town, almost everything is walkable and the streets are friendly. Even at night I have had no problems walking home from any distance. You rarely, if ever, see a taxi here. Though I know they exist, I’ve never seen one. Instead, as is the case all over South Africa and more accurately speaking- all over Africa, they take the mini-buses.

Mini-buses are vans of about 14 spots on a packed day, which have specific routes they go on. In some places, you have a hand signal that you stand on the street with to show which route you’re looking for. Other places, such as in Cape Town, you either catch it at the mini-bus station, in which case the route is marked, or you stand on the street and the mini-bus wingmen scream out where they’re going. If you want to get in, you holler. When I say though, that there is a “specific route”, I mean only that there is a general direction they are going. Once on the bus, you tell the wingman to the driver (he’s the one who opens and shuts the door, takes money, arranges seating, and screams out of the bus as to let the driver concentrate on driving) where you want to stop at. Additionally, this isn’t a taxi, so cross streets just aren’t what they want to hear. Rather tell them, for example, to stop outside the Shoprite near the KFC in a certain area of town. They drive these streets every day, so they’ll know where you mean.

I, personally, love the mini-buses. This is for a couple of reasons. Firstly, speaking from a college student perspective, it’s cheap. A ride of 20 minutes across the city will cost you about R8, that’s US 0.80. This obviously depends on which city you’re in but nonetheless the trip will never cost you much more than a dollar. Secondly, it’s safer than a cab. Cab drivers here are skeevy, to put the most accurate adjective to it. They don’t run on meters, which they don’t do on purpose as to try to rip off unsuspecting tourists or to make up excuses as to why the fare has risen. You have to haggle almost every time you get into a cab, and even then things go wrong. Thirdly, the mini-bus is the most South African way to get around. One of my proudest moments upon getting here was my first ride in the mini-bus, crunched in among 13 locals, speeding across the streets of Cape Town. Lastly, it prevents you from being taken advantage of. Mini-buses don’t leave the station until full most of the time. This is good for you as a tourist, as if anything happens, 13 people just saw it. For example, I was once told a different fare than the rest of the mini-bus, being an obvious foreigner, and the entire bus went into uproar. “Unacceptable”, they said, “Everyone pays the same price”.

The second form of transportation here which is less frequented but still pivotal to the functioning of a work week, is the train. Now, having lived in Germany before, I had to lower my expectations a bit with the train. Germany was exceptional, and to this day I haven’t seen anything as efficient, or dare I say, shiny. South African trains may be a bit more like Septa in the United States. Rickety and outdated, but nonetheless used, these trains are busiest around 7am and 4-5pm. Though many would suggest to you to never take the train due to random gang activity or muggings, I’ve never had an issue. Like the mini-bus, trains are full of people. I take third class instead of first as to increase the amount of people around me. It costs about R11 to go the hour to Cape Town, about US 1.10. As stated, the trains don’t have a great reputation. No one rides them after dark. In fact, you’ll see them sometimes speed past at night and look through the windows to not see one human soul sitting in them. This is a shame, as sometimes the fear of violence breeds violence itself. Or it just breeds a rather inefficient way to run a train system.

Aside from the train and mini-bus, it’s an even mix between driving and walking. When I was in Johannesburg, at the end of a work day you would see huge throngs of people walking home to the townships from various parts of the city. There are deep paths made by many feet before you to wherever you want to go. It’s difficult to tell how many people actually have cars, as living in Stellenbosch is not representative of the greater population. However, considering how spaced out South Africa is, a car could be a beneficial thing to have.

As far as further distances, like Europe- South Africa has domestic airlines like Mango, which offer cheap flights across the country. This is because many people commute for work between Cape Town and Johannesburg. You can also take commuter buses. In fact, Greyhound is in South Africa. Though local travel is quite cheap, flights within South Africa and especially between African countries are incredibly expensive. I believe it’s because less people are using them, and those using them are usually quite wealthy, meaning prices aren’t driven down by higher demand. This means little country hopping like you would do elsewhere but easy travel within the country! I encourage that if you’re ever in South Africa to use the transportation that the locals use. It’s a great way to meet people, and more importantly, to show respect that you are open to seeing, even in the little ways, life from their perspective.

 

By rbhargava

As usual, Week 7 in South Africa was another fun-filled week of fun activities and adventures. Some of the highlights were a braii (barbecue) with classmates from the LSCE course I am in on Friday, a trip to Simonstown on Saturday with some residents of Metanoia, and paragliding in Cape Town on Sunday. This week I'll talk more about life in Stellenbosch and focus on some of the everyday aspects of being a student here.

I may have mentioned it earlier, but in the center of campus is a student mall called the Neelsie - complete with dining options, a small grocery store, pharmacy, barbershop, bookstore, and more. On the top floor is a computer lab and space for student society offices. During the day, the mall is completely packed with students, and is a great place to grab lunch and appreciate how many students are at Stellenbosch, and how diverse the student population is. Although Afrikaans is the language of choice for most students, you'll hear English, Xhosa, German (so many German exchange students), and many other languages while sitting in the dining area of the Neelsie. By far my favorite part of the Neelsie though is the movie theater inside - run by the Pulp Film Society. The movie theater has 2 theaters, each showing 4 movies everyday of the week. Each theater has a selection of 4 movies that it shows everyday, and those movies rotate throughout the week. Members can come in and watch any of the movies playing for free at any time, and can grab popcorn or some snacks from the snack bar. The society also has a large range of dvds that members can rent for 10 rand (about $1). The selection of movies playing both in the theaters and available for rent are superb, and thus I have gone several times to watch movies in my free time. Most recently, this past week was German cinema week in one of the theaters, so I was able to watch two fantastic German films - The Lives of Others and The Edukators. As one can assume, the Pulp Society is quite a dangerous one, as any free time can easily be devoted to going to see a movie for free. Pulp is one of the reasons Stellenbosch is such a great place to study, and I can only hope that GW can follow suit and create a similar society with proper facilities in DC to enrich student life in Foggy Bottom.

Having been in Stellenbosch (or Stellie as many students like to call it) for over a month and a half, there are also many funny details about life here. Although Stellenbosch is a relatively small town and one can walk almost anywhere in the town within 30 minutes, many international students end up renting/buying bikes. The university rents bikes out to international students called MatieBikes and quickly ran out within the second day of international student orientation. The bikes are relatively cheap bikes that a Dutch student astutely pointed out were actually part of a bikeshare program in the Netherlands that the university must have bought are painted over with "MatieBike" written on it.  Many more international students who wanted bikes did not get a MatieBike in time, and therefore were forced to buy the cheapest bike - a "Spider" from a local bike store. By far the cheapest bike in town, the Spider has taken over all the bike racks in town along with the MatieBikes, and local students enjoy laughing at these ridiculously ugly and poor functioning bikes all over town. The fact that the majority of bike riders in the town are international students anyways makes the town an interesting home to the most uniform (and horrible) bike selection in the world - MatieBikes and Spiders.

Although there is much to do in Stellie, many international students (including myself) have all found many different things to do in their free time. For many, this means wine tasting as there are over 200 different wineries in the region. So if you want to become a wine connoisseurs in your free time as a student, this is the place to be. Stellenbosch also happens to be surrounded by beautiful mountains, so many others like to hike the mountains. There are a few nature reserves nearby, and the hikes are absolutely beautiful. From my previous posts, you probably noticed I fall under this category and have hiked several times since getting to Stellie. The last big thing to do around here is of course surfing. Stellenbosch is about 20-25 minutes from some of the best beaches in the world for surfing, and some exchange students here have come primarily or partly because they wanted to surf here. The surfing society here takes students out to the beaches twice a week, where they can escape the stress of university life on the waves. With all that said, between wine tastings, hiking, surfing, and all the other great outdoor options in the area, it is easy for everyone to find something to do around here. Where else can you wake up on a free day and have a million different choices of what to do and where to go. In any given day, students can hike a mountain, surf a wave, go on a safari, whale watch, visit Cape Town...No doubt, it would be hard to find a better place to be a student and appreciate life than here in Stellenbosch!

 

 

Traveling anywhere in Africa, you can’t help but notice the effects of colonization. It’s an eerie thing to see, especially if you’ve traveled to countries in Europe who took hobby in colonizing. I’d seen a brief hint of colonization in being part native, and knowing that what was once estimated as a population of 1-10 million in the United States before the Europeans arrived, now makes up 1% of the population. However, the effects of colonization are much more prominent in African countries.

Similar to the United States, South Africa also had a native people known as the Khoikhoi or the Khoisan. Also similar to the native tribes of North America, the Khoi lived off the land, were primarily nomadic, knew the land better than the back of their hands, and defended themselves with instruments like bows and arrows rather than guns. True to colonizing form, the Dutch-when deciding to finally settle some people in Cape Town (they’d originally just used the area as a place to stop, restock and regroup on the way to India) they made friends with the Khoi, traded their goods, learned their ways of the land, and then brutally murdered all of them.

IMG_0550There remains a small population of Khoi left in the Southern section of Africa- that being South Africa, Namibia, and Botswana. However, even the more modern population of Khoi got the short end of the stick in government policy.The Native Land Act of 1913 aimed itself at “regulating” the acquisition of land by “natives”, or as the rest of the world calls them, blacks. It was the first and arguably most destructive first step in introducing a formal apartheid system- as remember the actual implementation of what we know as “apartheid” didn’t actually happen until 1948.

The Native Land Act stated that only certain lands could be owned by blacks, and by certain lands, they meant 10% of the land in South Africa. Keep in mind, white’s at the time only made up less than 20% of the population, and yet were declaring 90% of the land their own. Imagine this from a practical standpoint. It’s like when packing up my college dorm room, I attempt to, instead of scattering my various things in separate boxes, cramming everything I own into one tiny box. It doesn’t work. People were forcibly removed from their land, and considering many blacks made a living off of farming, their one source of income was taken away. Additionally, the land they were given was so overoccupied and overfarmed that land quickly lost it’s lushness, causing food supply to slowly diminish and people to starve.

But going back to the Khoi- they too lost the land that was so vital to their culture and lifestyle. Between hunting, migrating, and teaching their youth the intricacies of nature and the wild, these things weren’t possible anymore.

IMG_0549
Our Khoi Guide

A couple weeks ago I was lucky enough to go to what might be called a Khoi-reservation, though Khoi don’t actually live there. Rather, it’s Khoi land and one gets to see where, in concept,they would be, and how, in concept, they would have done things like hunt and make clothing and build a fire, etc. I assume this visit would be much like visiting a Native American reservation in a place like North Dakota or Washington, where as enthusiastic your native tour-guide is about their culture and the jokes they tell and the culture they share, you can’t help but feel like it’s a mask for an unfairly dying culture. Our tour guide, as I have no better term for it, seemed to be the single person there who was able to recall the traditional ceremonies, way of dress, and how to hunt. His counterparts were learning as he did things, and the clothes, tools, and instruments were passed around with care and returned to saddles afterwards as they were some of the only left.

It made me sad and slightly uncomfortable to stand there and not think about the elephant in the room. In the years after apartheid law ended, and land restitution act has come forth to give back land to those who lived on it previous to apartheid laws being enacted. Despite the Khoi receiving land back, it’s too late and things won’t be the same when you wait about a hundred years to give a group their land back. It’s a great gesture, but it’s just that, a gesture. It makes me wonder whether populations like this losing their culture or even disappearing constitutes itself as a natural part of the world evolving and moving. Can these populations survive in modern days and live side by side to industrialization? I don’t know.

On a funny note, our guide told us how the Khoi ask someone to marry them. In this case, the male gets a little arrow that almost looks like it’s for a toddler Robin Hood, and they stalk the girl they are interested in before eventually hiding in a bush. They then shoot the girl in the butt with an arrow and if she’s nice but doesn’t like you, she will politely pick up the arrow and hand it back to you. If she’s mean and doesn’t like you she will break the arrow over her knee. If she wants to indicate yes, then she will pick up the arrow and place it over her heart. We proceeded to ask him how many broken arrows he had, of which we got no answer.

 

By rbhargava

This past week was another fun packed week with a many memorable events including a bike ride from Stellenbosch to the Jonkershook Nature Reserve, watching a movie at the student movie theater on Palestine as part of Gaza Awareness week, attending my dorm's House Dance on Friday, going to Cape Town on Saturday and visiting friends from GW at the University of Cape Town (UCT), hiking the frontside of Table Mountain on Sunday, and going to a movie screening of Unearthed (a movie on fracking in the Karoo) in Cape Town and meeting the director of the movie! As always I continue to keep myself busy and take advantage of all that Stellenbosch and Cape Town have to offer. This week I want to talk about two things, the House Dance on Friday and my time in Cape Town over the weekend.

Practically every student residence at Stellenbosch organizes a fancy ball for all its residents called Huis Dance or House Dance. Living in Metanoia, I was fortunate enough to attend the event and enjoy one of the most looked forward to event of the year. This year, the residence had its dance at the Town Hall, a beautiful building in the center of town. It is hard to compare the dance to anything like that at home, but the closest comparison would be a fraternity or sorority's formal event, but slightly fancier...so almost like a high school prom for college students. The guys buy the girls flowers, and only after arriving at the venue did I realize my grey suit and purple shirt was a bit too casual for the event. I was lucky enough to attend the event with a South African date, and sat on a table with a few other international students from Metanoia. We all enjoyed the experience of being at such a formal event in Stellenbosch and one that very few international students have the chance to attend. The night was also full of Sokkie dancing, which is the traditional Afrikaans ballroom dance. Just for the Huis Dance, Metanoia had organized a lesson a few nights earlier, so I was able to learn the basics of the dance and slowly pick it up during the Huis Dance until I was relatively competent in it (I think). The entire experience reminded me how lucky I am not only to be at a university with such a rich student life and culture, but also to be living in a dorm that allows me to get involved in these events.

Moving on, this past weekend my program - CIEE - set up a weekend in Cape Town where the three of us on the CIEE program in Stellenbosch were able to stay at the Alrge apartment building in Cape Town that hosts about 200 CIEE UCT students. On Saturday I was able to run into two friends from back at GW,  which was a nice change of pace as they were the first two faces I had seen in South Africa that I actually knew from home! It is quite interesting to think that for the past 6 weeks I've solely been interacting with people I had never met before. Not too often one has the chance to do that! Talking with my friends from back home,  it was great to discuss our time in South Africa and compare our experiences at UCT and Stellenbosch. I am definitely happy to have chosen to go to Stellenbosch, where my program is all of 3 Americans, whereas their program at UCT has somewhere around 200. I can't imagine coming to another country to study abroad and living in an apartment building solely for Americans. What a waste of time!

During the weekend, I had a chance to experience the famous nightlife of Cape Town on Long Street, which has very similar architecture to New Orleans. We also hiked up the front side of Table Mountain on the Platteklip trail that was an extremely steep, but direct hike to the top. The hike was an intense 2.5 hour trip up, but the views from the top were stunning, and made me appreciate the beauty of Cape Town on an entirely new level. There's not a city like it! On one side of the mountain you could look down and see the city bowl, Robben Island, and all the iconic places of downtown Cape Town. On the other, you can see the beaches of Camps Bay and the mountains that stretch down the peninsula until Cape Point and the Cape of Good Hope. After the hike, we attended a film screening of Unearthed, a movie about fracking in South Africa, at the Labia Theater in Cape Town. The director was also in attendance and it was extremely interesting to see fracking from the South African perspective, especially since that is a topic that I have studied in detail at GW. The film was very similar to the American film Gasland, and we had a chance to talk to the director briefly after the movie. Quite cool to talk to her as she is at the forefront of the fracking debate in South Africa. It's one thing to study abroad and experience living in a new place, and it's another thing to slowly become involved in the issues that you are passionate about back at home in that new country. It's exciting to become increasingly involved in the community here and feeling less like a tourist.

saturday market
Saturday Market

You find yourself with nothing to do on a Saturday morning, but the weather is beautiful. What to do?

Well among the typical South African answers of hiking a mountain, going biking, or any variety of outdoors activities [South Africans love the outdoors], a staple of a weekend morning is going to the market. Now when I share this with friends back home, I can just see their thoughts resorting to the select pictures of far-away markets they may have seen in some National Geographic issue. As such, I want you to take whatever market you are imagining, and upgrade it.

South Africa has markets like what you’re imagining- wooden crates full of fresh fruits and veggies, staples for a week of cooking, maybe even something hot and cheap to eat. However, what few may imagine is that South Africa has some of the most beautiful, diverse, and lively markets out there. Markets like the Neighborgoods Market, which exists in both Johannesburg and Cape Town, sell locally made goods from upscale jewelry to different spreads to fudge to Rooibos flavored beer and beyond. It’s the type of place that you can celebrate the weekend by strolling with friends, tasting tidbits of everything, splurging on something you probably don’t need but must have, and listen to live music. It is, by far, my favorite way to spend a weekend morning and gives you a nice chance to celebrate small businesses and local flavors.

Here in Stellenbosch, despite being a small town, we too have our markets to offer. One being the Stellenbosch Slow Market, and the other being the Route 44 Market. Both, unsurprisingly, are hosted at vineyards, as Stellenbosch is in the heart of South African wine country.

saturday market 3
Checking out the delicious food

True to form, the markets are, though joyful, also a reminder of wealth inequality within the country. Though the prices of goods may not seem high for a Western visitor, or a wealthy white South African, they are not the “place to be” so-to-say for the normal South African citizen. If the cost of your meal at the market is R60 (about $6) or the sweater you buy is R150 ($15) and you are paid the South African minimum wage of R10- that’s 1 U.S. Dollar an hour, these markets just aren’t feasible to visit, nor do they supply the types of goods that you’re looking for. As such, and perhaps this is the case too of Farmer’s Markets in the United States, these markets attract a specific section of the population and though fun, are only representative of the more upscale version of the market.

sheeps head
"Smiley" or Sheep's head

However, markets of a different kind are a staple nonetheless. I’ve gone to township markets where everyone from grandparents to children are playing and eating. In fact, it was there that I first tried a “smiley” which is a barbequed sheep’s head. I’ve also been to markets in Johannesburg that sell locally grown staple foods and working-man’s food for R2 ($0.25). No matter what market you attend, you will find something adventurous to eat, a true taste of the country, and friendly locals who will be glad to have you there. So if you ever have the chance in any country, my biggest suggestion is to find the markets!

By rbhargava

Another week gone and many more adventures to talk about! This past week I was able to visit a game reserve on Tuesday, go on a tour of Stellenbosch with the university's Senior Director of Community Interaction, help paint a classroom at the Lynedoch school, and revisit Cape Point/Cape of Good Hope and the penguins at Boulders Beach on Sunday. At the game reserve I had my first "safari," as we went on a tour of the reserve and saw springbock, zebra, giraffes, kudu, and others. Nothing like a real safari, but its a start! This week I want to focus on wineries here at Stellenbosch (this is the wine capital of the country...and Africa), and my second time to Cape Point and Boulders Beach.

From an economic standpoint, Stellenbosch is known for one thing only - wine. Along with two other towns nearby - Franschoek and Paarl, the majority of wine on the continent is produced here. Just in the Stellenbosch area, there are over 200 different wineries. This means Stellenbosch is one of the richest areas in the country, with some of the poorest people working on some of the nicest wine estates in the world. One can drive from the illegal and informal settlement - Enkanini - to a posh wine estate like Delaire Graff in less than 10 minutes. To see such a stark difference in wealth in one area is always shocking, and I always wonder how the owners of many of these wineries can live the way they do when their neighbors live in such poverty. Thanks to my Cities, Sustainability, and Community class I have been able to learn about some of the history behind a few wineries, and what a few of them are doing to combat the vast inequalities that exist in the Stellenbosch area today, and the problems that apartheid created.

Rewinding a bit, in the early 1990s when it became evident that apartheid was ending, the local government here gave decades-long land contracts to wineries and farms in the area to keep blacks from owning property. This left much of the area as they were before - white-owned wineries with underpaid black employees. Some wineries took a stand. Spier, for example, a few years ago decided to give some of the land that it was unjustly given years ago through these land contracts to a black farmer. This man, Eric, still farms the land today, but officially the land is still owned by Spier. More recently, another winery by the name of Salms Delta excavated the entire site to uncover its history - from Africans living there thousands of years ago to the slave labor that the winery used in the 18th and 19th centuries. The owner of the winery then decided to give back to the community by creating a museum displaying the history and honoring those that were oppressed for hundreds of years at the winery. He also made all the employees at the winery part-owners, so that it became one of the first, and possibly the only, winery in the region that is owned by the workers. Many other wineries in the area are becoming sustainable, both environmentally and socially, which is a great step in the right direction. But as I mentioned earlier, I think there is still a long way to go until the wine industry here becomes a more respectable and conscious industry.

Moving on, today I returned to Cape Point and Boulders Beach on a trip organized by the international students office at Stellenbosch. Luckily, today was the warmest and sunniest day yet, with temperatures going up into the low 80s! Seeing the Cape of Good Hope and Cape Point in the sun was a rare occasion, as the Cape of Good Hope used to be called the Cape of Storms for a reason. The cape is located at the end of the peninsula and marks the south-western most point in Africa (the southern-most point is further east down the coast), and is home to one of six floral kingdoms in the world - the Cape Floral Kingdom. There are over 9,000 species of fynbos in the floral kingdom, with over 2,000 just on Table Mountain...more species than all of the UK. So, hiking up Cape Point and then to Cape of Good Hope meant hiking through one of the most diverse and unique floral regions of the world. We managed to also hike down to a pristine and empty beach in between Cape Point and Cape of Good Hope and run into the freezing cold water.

Following our time at the tip of the peninsula, we drove up to Simonstown to go to Boulders Beach, where there is a large African penguin colony. The African penguin is the only penguin native to Africa, and only lives in South Africa. The beach has raised wooden walkways so that the penguins are not disturbed and can move freely, and every which way you look you can find penguins hiding underneath the walkways, sleeping in the bushes, or chilling on the beach. This time around, many penguins walked right up to the walkway and stared at us, almost as if we were the ones in the zoo. As an endangered species, one has to worry about the safety of the penguins, and Boulders Beach definitely seems like an encroachment of one of the few spaces the penguins have left. While walking back to our bus from the beach, we found a penguin inside a large sewage pipe hiding in the shade. I don't know how he ended up there or if he was stuck, but I hope efforts are increasing in protecting such a wonderful animal.

By clairemac93

It’s funny how when you’re abroad, you realize that once familiar things are actually of foreign origin. Case in point- the band Goldfish. I’ve been listening to Goldfish for years in the States, assuming they were some West Coast phenomenon or just someone’s weird yet awesome basement creation. Turns out, to my astonishment, that the band Goldfish hails from Cape Town. I was half shocked that this band had made an influence all the way across the world, and half disappointed that I had not discovered a diamond in the rough, but conversely a band quite established in South Africa.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CAYltftiBwk

In a way, it hardly surprises me that Goldfish would come from the Western Cape. Though kwaito music is the most popular music genre by numbers, house music or DJ-remixes are much more popular in the Western Cape and among the younger generation. Pretty much anything you can fist pump to is of preference to my fellow students at Stellenbosch as well as many in Cape Town. I like Goldfish because they’re upbeat and different from most bands that are popular these days. Additionally, perhaps inspired by the band the Gorillaz, they use self-created animations in almost all of their music videos. If you can, check out their old music- including songs like Hold Tight or Soundtracks and Comebacks which ties in a lot more jazzy-feels than their current music!

A second band which is worth a listen, also hailing from Cape Town, is Nomadic Orchestra. I was lucky enough during my recent trip to Johannesburg to be able to see them at Kitchener’s in downtown (similar to the Black Cat, for my Washington readers). They were by far the best band I've seen perform live. They’re comprised of a guitarist, tuba player, drummer, saxophonist, and trumpet player. Their music is almost entirely instrumental and has a slight middle-eastern influence. Check ‘em out!

By rbhargava

I’ve been in South Africa for almost a month now…which makes me worry that the next few months will go faster than this one. The good news I’ve been able to knock off all kinds of things from my bucket list so far, and this week was one of the best in that sense. I had several memorable moments, including a tough class with the 7 graders I teach at Lynedoch Primary School on Monday, a tour of Cape Town with a geographer on Wednesday, a visit to a nearby informal settlement (Enkanini) and hike at the nearby Jonkershoek Nature Reserve on Thursday, and a trip to Cape Town on Saturday in which I ran into a massive pro-Palestine protest, went to the famous District 6 Museum, and did the very popular Full Moon Lion’s Head hike in the evening. All were amazing experiences and I would be happy to speak at length about any of them, but I want to focus this week’s blog post on something different altogether – life at my residence hall Metanoia.

I talked about Metanoia a bit in my Week 2 post, but to revisit – Metanoia is the largest university residence with about 500 students. Of those 500 students, there are 9 non-degree seeking international students – 5 Americans, 3 Germans, and 1 Swede. What that means is we are few and far between, and get to experience South African university life like few others. There a few hundred international students here for the semester, but only the nine of us are living in a completely integrated dorm with South African students. The past few weeks have made me greatly appreciate my situation, as most of the other international students are living with one another in buildings specifically for international students, or living in private residences. Two weeks ago the residence had a week-long celebration with all kinds of events from a Game Night, to a Seniors Night, to a massive party in its Quad on Friday, and even a wine tasting on Saturday. This type of community within a dorm is something I never experienced at GW, and is something I best experienced this past Monday when the dorm held its elections for Primarius and onder-Primarius (essentially President and Vice President of the dorm).

The election began around 7pm on Monday, and all students were required to attend, so the cafeteria on the ground floor of the building was transformed into an auditorium as 500 students crowded the room. Each candidate was given 5 minutes to speak, followed by a 5 minutes question period. Many of the questions were quite controversial and direct, and most students were very invested in the election – for reasons I’ll begin to explain later. The elections ended up taking over 3 hours, and we were forced to stay the entire time. Elections for onder-Prim actually ended up spilling over into the next few days as a run-off was needed. The entire election process made Metanoia seem like a cross between a fraternity, a dorm, and student government – which it practically is.

To get a better sense of why there is such a strong sense of community here, let me tell you more about the structure of Metanoia. Although every room is a single, hallways are grouped into sections…which meet once a week and are named – my section is Enkidu’s Kloof while others are more excitingly named such as Norrisville and Helms Deep. Sections meet once a week and typically share communal bathrooms. Because there are no kitchens in the dorm, many students are forced to eat their meals in the dining hall on the ground fall (which is a complete mess, but that story is for another time). This means lots of residents see each other constantly in the cafeteria as meals are served only during a one hour period.

Stellenbosch is also currently in the middle of acapella season, and Metanoia has both guys and girls acapella groups. They both had concerts this week, and in the past few weeks both groups performed multiple times for the entire dorm in the dining hall. Every now and then, an announcement over the loudspeakers will let all residents know that the guys or girls group will be performing in 5 minutes…and everyone runs down to have a listen. It’s a great opportunity to meet students and enjoy all that university life here at Stellie has to offer. What I can say for sure is residential life here is much much richer than that at GW, and I can only wish that schools in the US could learn something from Stellenbosch.

By rbhargava

With my second week in class over, I’ve finally settled down into university life here at Stellenbosch. Having gone to school in DC for the past two years, it’s a refreshing experience to be studying in a “college town.” It only took me a few thousand miles, but it’s great to be at a school where you actually feel like a college kid rather than a pre-professional living in a big city. This week, I want to focus on three separate events – teaching at Lynedoch for the first time on Monday, visiting the Kirstenbosch Botanical Garden and hiking up Table Mountain on Tuesday, and hiking up Stellenbosch mountain twice.

As I mentioned in my post last week – as part of the LSCE (Learning, Sustainability, and Community Engagement) class I am in, I have the chance to teach 7th grade boys at a local school once a week. Monday was my first time interacting with the kids, along with my co-teaching partner Brandon (who also happens to be from northern NJ). In our first class with the students, we showed them pictures of our families, NJ, NYC, and our schools to give them a better understanding of our backgrounds. To get to know the kids better, we then went on to play several different games including 7Up, Four Corners, and Charades. From what we’ve been told, the majority of our students have ADD or fetal alcohol syndrome, making teaching and even playing simple games like Four Corners a difficult task. On a lighter note, I did get a chance to play some soccer with the students during a 20 minutes break, in which I was extremely surprised by how talented they all were and how well they worked as a team. I’m 100% confident they would beat 99% of the teams I played when I was their age in the US. Their talents on the field and struggles in the classroom point towards a background in which playing outside with a soccer ball is much more common than having a book to read at home. Looking back on the students thus far, they are almost identical to the middle school students I taught in India a few summers ago. The students here behaved, acted like, and were interested in the same things as my students in India, and it will definitely be interesting to continue to notice those similarities over the next several weeks.

Moving on, last Tuesday I went with some friends to the Kirstenbosch Botanical Garden near Cape Town. The grounds were beautifully kept and we spent much of the morning walking around the garden and enjoying a rare sunny and warm day. The highlight by far though was a hike up the backside of Table Mountain on the Skeleton Gorge Trail. The strenuous hike took us above the clouds through a never-ending path of log steps, ladders, and climbing a waterfall. The top was well worth the effort though, as we looked down at the clouds below and came across a reservoir with bright white sand. It was quite surreal climbing up so high, above the clouds, and coming across a nice little beach. We took a different route back down – Nursary Ravine – which was anything but easy. Luckily, our walk down coincided with the clouds moving out of the area, so we were able to hike down and slowly begin to see the land below. The hike took several hours, but was probably the most rewarding hike I’ve gone on.

Of course after such a great hike I was eager for more, so on Thursday I hiked up Stellenbosch Mountain with a friend. The hike was much less intense, but offered equally stunning views of Stellenbosch and the surrounding areas. It was clear enough to see Table Mountain and Lion’s Head directly west, and the ocean just south of the mountain. The mountain is just behind my residence, so I returned again to do the hike with some more friends on Sunday. It seems like hiking up the mountain may become a weekly activity for me!