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By meaggymurphy

In the midst of exam study time, I would like to step back and take a moment to make a brief list of all of the things that I have been lucky for so far in my time in Pamplona (Also, this can serve as this year's Thanksgiving "What I am Thankful For" speech that never was). It's nice, every once in awhile, to remind myself of some of the ways that the universe has treated me well/how I have luckily dodged bullets over the past few months.

1. Choosing to study in Pamplona: I got lucky picking "Pamps" (as I affectionately call it) over another city in Spain because it it the perfect place for study abroad; it's not too big or overwhelming, it's got rich history/traditions, it's very authentically "Spanish" (no Starbucks here!), and it's surrounded by beautiful scenery. I gambled a little coming here, but in the end it was a bet that paid off.

2. My housing situation: I feel so lucky that I ended up rooming with three really great girls who are fun, understanding, helpful, and genuinely friendly roommates. I can't imagine how my experience would have been had they been any different.

3. My professors: Although taking classes in Spanish can sometimes be intimidating (presentations and class participation in a foreign language, or any language for that matter, is intimidating!), I definitely feel that I have a great group of understanding professors. Luckily, they all seem to have in mind that I'm here to learn the language and the culture in addition to the textbook material, so they have been very accommodating and always available to answer questions.

4. My health: Apart from one case of food poisoning (never again will I look at Salmon Pizza the same), I have been very fortunate (knock on wood- I've still got over a week to go) to not contract any dire illnesses or break any bones. This is lucky because a)no one likes feeling sick while away from home and b)going to the doctor is an experience I'd rather not have. I guess a pincho a day keeps the doctor away!

5. Spanish culture: One of my favorite parts of this experience has been the opportunity to feel a part of Spanish culture. I've gotten to stop and smell the roses, and I think that this is something that should not be underestimated in importance or impact. I decided to come to Spain for a lot of reasons, but one of the best and most surprising things I've gotten out of study abroad is a different life view that I am lucky to take home with me. I owe Spain a huge thank you for that.

6. My friends: This is last but most certainly not least. Actually, I could write endlessly about them, but I'll keep it short and sweet. I think there must be something in the water here; Pamplona seems to have a high concentration of people with great personalities who have appeared in my life specifically to be their awesome selves and teach me a lot. I've been blown away by how quickly and effortlessly people have welcomed me into their lives, as well as how easily they have become a part of mine. I've gotten to have classes, conversations, experiences, and travels with some of the best people on planet Earth during my time here. They get the biggest shout-out of them all!

By meaggymurphy

Blurb:  Visiting a castle is a pretty decent want to spend a day, and I was lucky enough to get to go see an unexpectedly beautiful castle here in Navarra this past weekend. The fall foliage and beautiful weather made the experience that much more enchanting. The town where this castle is hidden, Olite, was also charming and definitely a hidden gem of the region. The only things that were missing from the experience were the dragons and Gandolf. #medieval #palace #spain #daytrip #GWU #GWAbroad

This past weekend, I got to see two things I love: my friend Sara (who is currently studying in Barcelona) and more of the countryside surrounding Pamplona. When Sara visited, we decided to go visit a nearby town called Olite, about a half hour away from where I live. Bus rides around this region of Spain are painless because of how pretty the mountains and roadside towns are; especially now that it's fall, the colors are changing from sunny greens and yellows to rustic golds and reds.

Once we got to Olite, we decided to stroll around and get situated in the little town. We entered a souvenir shop (where it's always ok to be a tourist) and asked where the center of town and restaurants were. The girl working behind the desk laughed a little and said, "This is it!" Apparently we were already in the middle of the town, which consisted of a plaza, the souvenir shop, a couple restaurants, and town hall. So, first thing's first, we sat down at a table in the plaza belonging to one of the restaurants and ordered some lunch.

After lunch, the next stop was the Palacio Real of Olite. At first, Sara and I almost made the HUGE mistake of being deterred by the entrance fee of 2 euros (later, we marveled at everything we had come so close to missing out on). Thankfully, we decided to go in. I had never really realized that I had never been in a legitimate medieval castle, unless you count Cinderella's Castle in Disney World, which I admittedly did before this visit.

This castle was built between the 13th and 14th centuries by King Charles III "The Noble" of Navarra. It's a Gothic palace, with geometric decorations over windows and spiral staircases leading up to one of two towers that overlook the town and the mountains. It's known for the disorder of it's design, but I thought it was more whimsical than unorganized. My favorite part of the whole palace was a square courtyard surrounded by a covered walkway with tall Gothic windows that allow you to see into the garden in the center. However, this wasn't the best part of the courtyard. The most enchanting part was the vines surrounding the walkway because they were bright, florescent red. After seeing all this, Sara and I were kicking ourselves for having almost not gone into the palace. It was one of the most beautiful things I've seen since arriving here in Spain. It get like walking onto the set of Game of Thrones or into a scene from Lord of the Rings.

After running around the Palace for a while, it was time to head back to Pamplona. Looking back afterwards at the pictures we took, I still can't get over how pretty it all was. Everything was perfect- the weather, the castle, the views, and being able to go with my friend made it one of my favorite days! I've written about hidden gems before, and I'll do it again. They're the best because, like the Palacio Real de Olite, they're surprising and always exceed expectations. And, it's never a bad way to spend a day feeling like a medieval princess.

By meaggymurphy

The border between France and Spain is less than an hour from Pamplona, so I knew I wouldn't be able to leave without taking at least one trip there. I got my chance last weekend, and it definitely expanded my view of Spain and the region I live in.
The friends who I went with thought it was the funniest thing ever that I had brought my passport to cross the border... How was I supposed to know that there is zero border control to enter France from Spain?! The ease at which people can move between the two countries surprised me, but it explains the influence that France has had on northern Spain, as well as that of Spain on southern France.
Upon arrival in Biarritz, France, everyone seemed to speak both French and Spanish. The city itself is a picturesque town situated by the ocean, and reminded me of San Sebastian (in northern Spain) for its architecture and vacation-y feel. The restaurant we stopped in for lunch was serving gazpacho and paella, which are definitely Spanish inventions. The second city we visited, Saint Jean de Luz, was similar in that it was a sunny, charming resort town by the beach.
Despite the similarities I saw between this region of southern France and Spain, I was still able to have my French experience. We stopped for crepes, and I refused to reenter Spain without first buying real French macaroons (this caused us a bit of a detour, but our persistence in the search of macaroons was not in vain, and I returned to Pamplona with a bag of the bright, multi-colored sweets). One of my friends speaks French, so she was appointed Designated Translator and I was able to ask her what everything meant. At one point, we were sitting in a square and realized how quiet it was, despite being full of people. Looking around, everyone was sitting at little cafe tables, contentedly having an espresso or leisurely reading a newspaper or eating a crepe. One guy was even wearing a beret! I don't think I've ever seen a scene so stereotypically French in my life. It was nice to sit there in the midst of so much Frenchness and walk away from it hoping to have soaked up some of the calm classiness of it all.
We spent the day strolling around the streets, window shopping and walking by the water. We stumbled upon a wedding party outside of a church, an outdoor concert, and little parks and monuments throughout both cities. It was a very relaxing day of exploring, and I was glad to have gone not at the height of tourist season. It was beautiful, and seeing how close Pamplona and France really are helped me to understand a bit more about the French influences in northern Spain. At the end of the day, I got to check off "Go to France" from my bucket list, although I hope that it won't be my first and only visit!

By meaggymurphy

I'm learning that hidden gems are the best part of living in this region of Spain. I often get the feeling that people overlook northern Spain... It's not bustling Madrid, international Barcelona, or sunny Seville. However, I've been pleasantly surprised by how much Navarra has to offer. One small example of a hidden gem I recently uncovered is called the Necedero del río Urederra in the Parque Natural Urbasa Andía.

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The Necedero del río Urederra in the Parque Natural Urbasa Andía

One of my friends recent ly acquired a car, which opens up a whole range of possibilities as far as traveling around the region goes. Along with another friend, we decided to take the 40 minute drive to this national park that allegedly had a beautiful, crystal-clear river called Urederra. It felt nice to drive into the mountains (but not so nice once we started climbing the winding roads and I realized I had the misfortune of being in the backseat, a.k.a. the whiplash seat). Once we arrived, it was a short walk through a little, mountainside town of about 20 adobe houses to arrive at the park entrance. At this point, we were joking nervously about how the weather looked like it was about to change for the worst and we were stuck without an umbrella. We decided to chance it, and I'm glad we did.

The walk consisted of a dirt pathway winding through the trees, with sweeping views of mountains and valleys before the forest became more dense. Soon the trees broke and we were looking down upon the most breathtaking river I've ever seen. It was a shade of blue, luminescent and clear, that I didn't know existed outside of the Caribbean. As if the color wasn't enough, there was also a waterfall cascading over the rocks. At first, myself and the two other girls were speechless; as soon as we could talk, we couldn't stop gushing over how beautiful it was!

Continuing on, every view of the river Urederra was more picturesque than the last. Trees growing on the riverbanks extended their roots into the turquoise water, and we could see clearly the rock formations arranged under the crystal cover of water. We stopped and had a picnic (my friends had packed me an extra sandwich, which I thought was really sweet!) and took it all in. Places like the Nacedero del Urederro, which are so unexpectedly and naturally beautiful, kind of temporarily stun you by how perfect they are.

I joked that I would build myself a little cabin right next to the river, and I was only half kidding because I can't think of a better view to wake up to every morning! After a couple hours of continuing down this path (and encountering surprisingly few other visitors), we reluctantly decided to head back to the car. In almost no time, I was back at my apartment, still in shock over the beauty of everything we'd seen.

This day trip was definitely my favorite that I've taken so far here in Spain; I got to see a place that exceeded all of my expectations with great company, and in the end it didn't even rain! I left Urederra feeling extremely lucky. I felt lucky to have found this hidden gem, lucky to have found good friends to share these experiences with, and, most of all, lucky to live here in Navarra!

By meaggymurphy

The best parts of studying abroad are the firsts- first visit to a new city, first conversation after meeting someone new, first time trying a new food. The "firsts" and the "newness" of everything is exciting, especially the firsts that you don't see coming. My favorite, and perhaps most unexpected, "first" since arriving here in Spain has been the addition of a PUPPY to the apartment where I live (I say PUPPY because it's super exciting and deserves to be in all caps).

One of my roommates decided that she was ready to become the proud owner of a dog and went out and bought one.  Luckily, myself and the two other girls I live with are dog people. Or, at least, I was pretty sure I was a dog person, having only ever owned cats in my life. Hence, the big "first" of living with a dog.

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Curro, the cutest dog in Pamplona

The dog's name is Curro, which can either mean "work" or "cocky." It's kind of a cheeky name, but it suits the little guy. He's extremely playful and adorable, but also a lot of work. For example, he's not exactly potty-trained yet, and his favorite activity is taking paper out of the trashcan and ripping it to shreds in the living room. But just when you're about to get angry, he looks at you and tilts his head to one side as if to say, "What? I'm a puppy, I'm too young to know better!" So I usually end up chastising him and quickly going back to thinking he's the cutest thing ever. He knows it, and prances off to find something to chew on or a new hidden corner to do his "business" in.

Curro is, without a doubt, the most popular dog in Pamplona. When my roommates and I go to have a coffee at the cafe across the street, he always comes and all the students returning from classes at the university stop to say hello. Curro sits patiently in everyone's laps and allows himself to be petted and fawned over. It's a hard life, obviously. He'll probably end up being the most spoiled dog in all of Spain, between living with four girls and constantly receiving attention from everyone. But he's just so darn cute!

In addition to being cute, he is extremely intelligent. We have decided that he will learn all of his tricks in English and Spanish, in an effort to stimulate him intellectually. I have been given the task of teaching him English, and he is a very adept student. I'm sure he'll be bilingual in no time.

Curro (though technically not my dog, but we can pretend since we live in the same apartment) is my favorite "first" that I have experienced so far in Spain. I am now positive that I am a dog person, but even more than that, I'm a Curro person.

By meaggymurphy

One of my favorite words in Spanish is "vergüenza," or embarrassment. This is a feeling that I've become quite comfortable with since arriving in Spain. Especially in my classes (oh yes, I have examples).

So far in Spain, I've discovered that I can almost 100% guarantee that if a professor is going to ask for volunteers or give a surprise oral pop quiz, I will be chosen to answer first. I am a person who prefers to go to class, listen, take notes, and participate when I feel that I have something to contribute. I know very few people who relish being called on to speak in front of the class. By the end of my time here in Spain, I will never again feel uncomfortable being called upon to give an opinion or answer a question because it happens in every class here, everyday.

For example, last week in one of my classes we had a surprise visitor: a magician! How fun! Who does he chose out of everyone in class to be his assistant? Me. At one point, he has a coin and asks me to blow on his hand to make it disappear. This is confusing to me. I panic. I know what I heard him say, but what if I misheard?! Why the heck would I need to blow on his hand to make the magic happen? I'm afraid to ask and sound like a dumb foreigner. So what do I do instead? I fist bump him. It was the most awkward fist bump of my life. The class erupts in laughter. I cringe. Two lessons here: Don't be afraid to ask questions, and sometimes the best thing to do is laugh at your mistakes.

Another example was a surprise oral quiz in my Geography class. I am chosen first to answer. I answer correctly (PHEW), except for the professor is looking for one word specifically to describe the geographic structure we're studying. In my panic, I can only think of how to say it in English, and I know it sounds nothing like the Spanish equivalent. So I just say I don't know and move on. Looking back, it probably wouldn't have hurt to say it in English. But lesson learned: always be extra prepared for class with all of the proper vocabulary, just in case.

On the bright side, these moments of panic always result in me making new friends. After the Magician Incident, a few students from my class approached me to say I shouldn't be embarrassed because it was the best part of the entire magic show. Ok, I'll take it. And after the geography quiz, I'm approached by other students who tell me that they didn't know the word either, so I shouldn't feel bad about it. At least I wasn't the only one!

I'm learning that during my time in Spain, as a foreigner, I'm always representing my country to the people here. This is something that they tell you at orientation, but it really becomes a reality upon arrival. Professors aren't trying to embarrass me when they ask what I think in front of the class; they just want to know what someone who isn't from here thinks! At the end of the day, it's worth the occasional embarrassing situation if 9 times out of 10 I can add something constructive to class discussions. So, vergüenza only exists if I let it. Besides, no one ever died from an awkward fist bump.

By meaggymurphy

The first thing to know about eating in Pamplona is that tapas are NOT a thing. Everywhere else in Spain, it's common to go out to a restaurant in a group and order tapas, or the Spanish version of artfully constructed appetizers. Not in Pamplona. What a shame.

EXCEPT. In Pamplona, the bars and cafes in the Casco Viejo, or "Old Quarter," do the residents of the city one better. They have "pinchos" in place of tapas. The only real culinary difference between tapas and pinchos is the name. However, there is a big difference when it comes to the experience of eating pinchos.

The best time to go for pinchos is on a Thursday night for "juepincho" (Spanish for "Thursday" is "jueves," hence "jueves" + "pinchos" = juepincho. Logic). On juepincho, the narrow cobblestone streets of the Casco Viejo are buzzing with people doing the Pamplona equivalent of a bar crawl; first, you enter a restaurant and order an artfully decorated pincho with cerveza or vino for a mere two Euros (this deal is only on Thursdays, which is what draws the crowds). Next, you bring your spoils out to the street, which is lined with tables (standing room only) and get to enjoy the people watching while you eat. Everyone in Pamplona, from university students to elderly couples to young couples pushing strollers through the crowds, turns up on Thursday nights for the festivities.

If you though the experience was over after the first pincho, think again! I believe the formula for juepincho goes something like four pinchos = one dinner. This means that you get to stroll along to another bar, order another pincho (NO TAPAS, remember?), and repeat the process all over again. The people of Pamplona are big fans of this tradition; I've been told that during the winter, despite the chill/rain/snow, juepincho goes on as normal.

Of course, it doesn't have to be Thursday for you to enjoy pinchos. These restaurants have the snacks prepared daily. And vegetarians beware-- chances are, a pincho that looks like it's topped with innocent vegetables probably has ham hidden in it somewhere. The other thing about pinchos in Pamplona is that there is intense competition between bars to have the best pinchos in the city. In my opinion, I don't know how anyone would ever be able to choose. There have to be at least 100 restaurants that participate in juepincho, and I have yet to try a bad pincho!

Pinchos aren't tapas, but they are uniquely from Navarra (the provence in which Pamplona is located), and definitely one of my favorite things about this city. ¡Buen provecho to anyone who comes to Pamplona and participate in this delicious tradition!

By meaggymurphy

Patterns are funny things in life. They are so dependent on variables like timing, culture, necessities, and personality; however, patterns have a way of becoming rigid and invariable. They become routines whether we want them to or not. Part of the reason I chose to come study abroad in Spain was because I have a previously unspoken/unwritten promise with myself regarding routines. This self-contract is that I will always take the opportunity to challenge myself to break out of patterns. I know myself to be a person who becomes easily bewitched into a routine- if I could, I'd wake up at the same time everyday, eat the same thing for breakfast, and go through a series of comfortable motions until bedtime. But where's the fun in that?! Life is about variety, switching it up, and trying new things. This is why I love travel so much; it literally forces you to break out of habitual familiarities and adapt in an unfamiliar environment.

Spain has done a good job of shattering my well-established U.S. routine. For example, somewhere along the line in life, I was bitten by the "Early to bed, early to rise" bug. It's annoying, I know. When I'm in America, I take comfort in the pattern of waking up early, having a cup of coffee, and doing productive things until it's time for class or work. One of the biggest adaptations I've undergone in Pamplona is the acceptance that this routine simply does not work.

The life of a student in Spain is one that tends to start later and end later. Everything here happens later. Breakfast happens when I'm used to having lunch, lunch when I'm used to having dinner, and dinner when I'd usually be fast asleep. Life is very much more nocturnal; this past week I was surprised/horrified to hear a friend telling me that during exams, he prefers to play fútbol at night, return home to eat around 10 p.m., and then study from midnight till the sun comes up. That's his routine. I don't think I'll ever be that much of a night owl. But at basic as it sounds, I like talking to people whose life rhythms are different from mine- simple patterns tell a lot about traditions, preferences, and what people find significant in life. For me, it's just as important to participate in and experience as many life patterns as possible as it is to establish one for myself. Luckily, I'm getting to experience the routine-shattering shift that I was hoping Spain would provide. So far, I'm keeping my promise to myself and adapting. Someday, the time will come when I realize that I'm just as comfortable in my Spain routine as I was in my American routine, and then I'll know it's time for a new challenge. For now, I'll keep enjoying the novelty and freshness of my life rhythm in Pamplona.

By meaggymurphy

Hola from Spain! If my calculations are correct, it's been 16 days since I left the good ol' US of A. After a bit of traveling in Ireland and Madrid, I was able to settle into my apartment in Pamplona, where I'll be living with 4 Spanish roommates for the semester.

I spent a couple days at orientation (1st discovery: the Spanish love icebreakers just as much as Americans) for international students, getting to know the city and lots of students from all four corners of the globe. We took a day trip to nearby San Sebastián (sun! beach! tourists galore!), where I saw my dream house from afar on the top of a mountain in the middle of the bay. Back in Pamplona, I spent a few days indulging in my status as a newcomer, exploring the Casco Antiguo (the old part of the city) and getting lost along the way (2nd discovery: Pamplona is quite fond of its roundabouts, which make navigating to specific places confusing and may or may not have caused me to take a couple hour-long detours on the outskirts of the city).

So far, the most challenging part of arriving here has been, surprise surprise, speaking Spanish 24/7. Luckily, I love learning Spanish. When we began classes this week, I was interested to see whether or not I would regret my decision to take all my classes in Spanish. For example, what if I have a professor who mumbles or has an accent or makes fun of my accent in front of the class?! But after introducing myself to my professors and sitting through the classes, I feel much more at ease. It won't be easy, but I know that if I dedicate myself to understanding and work hard, I'll be glad I forced myself to surround myself with Spanish all day, everyday.

Now, to wrap this up with a couple personal goals that I have for the semester:

1. Speak and learn as much Spanish as humanly possible!

2. Of course, do well in class (not the most exciting of goals, but there it is!).

3. Meet as many people as humanly possible and get to know different points of view (lucky for me, everyone I've met so far has been incredibly friendly and just as interested in my point of view as I am in theirs).

That's all for now! TTFN y adios!