This weekend I took a break from Edinburgh and headed north into the iconic Scottish Highlands and the Isle of Skye. As beautiful as they are rugged and misty, the mountains and lochs proved well worth the lengthy bus journey. The trip was organized by the International Student's Center at the University of Edinburgh. About 200 students in four large tour buses embarked on the journey at about 8am on Saturday morning, later staggering to avoid flooding the way points with too many excited students at once. Rain was in the forecast but this being Scotland I expected nothing less.
The one thing I did not anticipate was the mud. Very few people did. The trip packing list, which called for "proper walking shoes for walking and hiking" did not reference the mud either. Now you may be thinking "its just a little mud, I'm sure it cant be that bad," and of course Edinburgh receives enough rain to be consistently muddy as well, but it is usually just a thin layer on top of solid ground. In the mountains of the highland things are just a wee bit different. The entire ground feels like a sponge and the vegetation on top doesn't do anything to change that impression. The mud is everywhere, on the path, next to it, under the vegetation just waiting for your foot to rip though.
It is hard to believe I've already been in Scotland for three weeks. Of those three this most recent one was definitely the nicest weather wise. I still had to take my jacket everywhere for risk of showers but the weather was gorgeous. 60s, sun, I almost (I stress the almost) felt like this wasn't the overcast and dreary land that I was warned about (but then again, I've got no complaints.) I live in a school flat near Bruntsfield which is a bit to the southwest of the George Square Campus where I have all of my classes.
My three quarters of a mile walk to classes runs past and through the meadows, a large park. Half, the Bruntsfield links, (which I can see from my window) offers free golf, and the other half is just open land for sports or barbecues. The walk this time of year is beautiful, some of the trees are beginning to change colors while the grass remains a beautiful verdant green. For the 11 minute hike I get to enjoy a warm sun and a stiff westerly breeze while I take in Edinburgh's impressive intermingling of new and old buildings. The trees do warn that it wont always be this pleasant though. As I walk though the center of the park I can't help but notice they all lean quite obviously and somewhat ominously away from the prevailing winds which makes me glad I've got a good jacket for when winter hits.
I've been getting to classes a consistent ten minutes early, which appears pretty standard for the University of Edinburgh. Students gather to wait around the doors for the lecture hall to empty of students from the preceding lecture and almost everyone enters at the same time. Classes are large by my standards, but, being in the honors program at GW has meant that I was lucky enough to avoid a lot of the large lectures that I would have ordinarily been subjected to.
As the United 757 I was riding on banked around a large and ominous looking cloud formation on descent into Edinburgh Airport I stared intently out my window. I hoped that at any moment my eyes would pierce the lower cloud layer and catch a glimpse of what awaited below. I had never been visited Scotland before, or any part of the United Kingdom for that matter, and despite the vast amount of information available on the internet to help me prepare I was anxious. I felt prepared, or at least I had until the plane's wheels left the tarmac. Then I thought "wow, we're really doing this." Almost 7 hours after that moment I caught my first glimpse of Scotland off in the distance, verdant, hilly, and dotted with rays of sun. It was a huge relief. In the foreground ships lie at anchor in the ocean and as we dropped lower I spotted the iconic Fourth Rail Bridge. A few minutes later the plane made a smooth landing, slightly ahead of schedule, and my day went downhill from there.
The end has finally come…Most of my fellow abroad students have made their way back to the States by now. I cannot look at Facebook without seeing statuses about leaving various countries and returning home for Christmas, and I cannot help but be reminded that I only have a week left before I too have to make my way back across the pond. It sounds incredibly cliché, but the thought of returning home is an immensely bittersweet feeling. On the one hand knowing that I’ll be coming home to a warm Christmas-y welcome from family and friends that I have not seen or really talked to in ages, is a nice thought and I cannot help but look forward to it. It also means I’ll finally be able to catch up with friends that have also been abroad and hear all about their stories and adventures. On the other hand though, going home means leaving Edinburgh, and to be entirely honest, I don’t quite think I am ready to do that yet. Leaving means saying goodbye to good friends and fond memories, challenges and struggles, adventures and exciting experiences. It means I have to say goodbye to a new life I’ve established and return to the familiar grind of regular life.
Coming here was in many ways, like starting college all over again. I knew no one, had no idea how the system worked, but thought I knew myself and understood at least my own outlook on life. And just like freshman year, I am leaving behind wonderful new friends and taking with me a much refined perspective on the world around me, along with a much improved understanding of myself. Knowing no one and not having a program of fellow American students to fall back on for support forced me to reach out of my comfort zone and open up to new people almost immediately, which is admittedly not one of my strong suits, but I eventually managed and in addition to making close friendships with people from all over the world, I was reminded how to relate to people, especially people who come from very different backgrounds from what I am normally accustomed to. In reflection, this was probably my biggest challenge while abroad. The similarities of British and Scottish cultures to American culture, as well has my personality, made most other adjustments relatively easy, especially compared to the adjustments other study abroad students had to make; however, remembering how to make new friends and relate to diverse individuals, with whom you often have to navigate between the cultural similarities and differences, can be incredibly difficult. That being said, it can also be incredibly telling of yourself and a, albeit slightly forced, perfect opportunity to connect and relate to others.
More importantly though, studying abroad, flipped and twisted and confused, a lot of what I thought I knew about the world and myself. Living in Edinburgh reminded me how beautiful and exciting cities could be, an appreciation I had started to lose in DC, and traveling throughout the UK and Europe rehydrated my thirst for adventure and taught me to not be a traveler, rather than a tourist. Actually taking challenging classes outside of my usual focal areas led me to new academic interests and made me reconsider my future academic and career plans. Most importantly though, studying abroad has taught me to see everything as an adventure, to see even the familiar through the eyes of someone who is experiencing it for the very first time, to allow life to unfold before you rather than set expectations that constrain and limit your future, and to appreciate even the small details as something wonderful. When I think of my fondest memories here, most are of experiences I had set no expectations for or had not anticipated. From the Scottish national anthem at the national rugby matches to adventures in Belgium to traditional Swedish Christmas carols sung by friends as a St. Lucia Day surprise this past weekend, the unexpected unprecedented moments have been among the best. This is probably because when you approach a situation, not with expectations, but instead with an open mind, everything comes as a pleasant surprise and you can actually genuinely experience and engage with what’s going on around you. Looking at the world in such a way, also taught me to appreciate the smaller details. Back in DC, I walk past famous monuments, national agencies, and international institutions on a daily basis and rarely bat an eye. In Edinburgh though, since everything is this new, exciting experience abroad, every little statue, street sign, painted door and bird are each unique and beautiful details that you cannot help but notice. I have learned to look at the world around me, not has this static imposition of concrete and stone around me, but as a dynamic integration of color, history, culture and art that flow together to create an ever changing, multidimensional picture. I’ve been reminded how to see the beauty in what’s around me and not just see that beauty with my eyes but as an actual tangible experience. I suppose it can’t get much cheesier than that, but then again, that might be the point. I’ve learning this past semester, that when you are traveling, whether it be across the world, or just around the corner to the store, if you are open to the experience, the world has to much more to offer than you could possibly imagine to expect. And with that, I bid adieu to Edinburgh, at least for now.
Christmas, particularly the time leading up to the holiday itself, is without a doubt my favorite time of year. Since I don’t get back to the states until JUST before Christmas, spending the season abroad was initially a bit concerning – no family, no secret santas, no warm house smelling of cookies and pine to come home to, no rush of Black Friday shopping or trying to sneakily hide gifts. But as the holidays draw nearer, I am starting to really appreciate Christmas in Edinburgh and the UK more generally.
Some things are a bit different of course. The most apparent is probably the lack of holiday buffer. Now I realize that this may sound strange, but allow me to explain. The buffer time that Thanksgiving provides between Halloween and the winter holidays is key to making the season such a magical time. In the UK though, with no Thanksgiving to impede the oncoming headlights of Christmas, garland and ornaments and Santas start appearing just after Halloween-that's an entire extra month of Christmas prep! Not that I am complaining, a little extra holiday cheer never hurt anyone, but it does take some adjustment to get used to not hearing people gripe about decorations in shops in November. There are some benefits though to not having Thanksgiving though, mainly the appreciation for pumpkin pie. I cannot count the number of British people I've met that have never had real pumpkin pie before. Needless to say, I racked up some serious friendship points last Thursday. Now that the Thanksgiving buffer has officially passed, I'm finally able to appreciate all that Scotland has to offer during the holidays. There have been two experiences in particular that have really upped my holiday cheer. The first is the scenery of the snowcapped highlands in the winter. Although the middle and southern belts of Scotland don't really see any snow until late December-January, the highlands up north are already a winter wonderland, with snowy mountains and twinkling lights and little villages full of cottages, all with smoke rising from the chimney. It's just like falling into a Christmas card. Not to mention, up in the Cairngorms National Park, there is an actual reindeer center where you can see an entire herd of reindeer. The other holiday experience was right here in Edinburgh at the city's Christmas Village festival. With so much extra time for prep and anticipation, Edinburgh spares no expense when it comes to the holiday. The entire central Princes Street Gardens are transformed into a Christmas village to rival the north pole, complete with ice skating, a slew of hot beverages, holiday bakery and other foods galore, Christmas crafts and gifts, and a Christmas theatre where the show a different play each week. There is even a giant Ferris wheel that overlooks all the lights and sights of the city. It's literally like being a kid at Christmas again! Of course, even with such magical experiences, being away from friends and family at the holidays is still very difficult, but you just have to make the most of it and enjoy the holiday traditions with a new twist.
I've written a lot about the new experiences and opportunities I've had thus far, which are definitely the more exciting and interesting aspects of the study abroad experience. Admittedly though, they don’t include the majority of what I've actually been doing while abroad. When people think of studying abroad, they usually imagine tasty foods and exotic places, lots of travelling and unique experiences, but that doesn't really capture the “real” abroad experience. So, in honor of the first relaxed weekend I've had since arriving in Edinburgh, I figured I would write about the day-to-day life of studying abroad.
First thing’s first, as I've mentioned in other posts, studying abroad actually involves a lot of well, studying. So naturally, most of my day is occupied by studying and course work. I’m taking four upper-level classes here, all ecology or plant biology focused, which take up quite a bit of time. I usually start the day fairly early in the morning with classes, which are about a half hour walk from my dorm, and am occupied with lectures, labs and coursework until mid-afternoon or early evening. The nice thing about the studying culture here is that while it is common, and almost standard, to study during the day and between classes, studying during the evenings is not usually the norm. So, most afternoons are occupied by study sessions in the library or a nearby café, leaving the evenings generally study-free. Instead, evenings are usually spent at meetings or outings with various student organizations. Personally, I have joined the Hill Walking Club, which is actually a hiking/mountaineering club, and the Beer and Cider Society for the semester. As an exchange student, societies (student organizations) are definitely the best way to meet people, and fortunately, the societies here are all very active and usually meet three to four times a week. Other weekday evening activities typically include the weekly flat mate dinner, a quick swing by the pub, a trip to the gym and other regular errands. As you can probably guess, it’s really not the most exciting of times, but nonetheless, it all manages to keep you busy and active throughout the week.
Luckily, the weekends tend to make up for the normalcy of the weeks and remind you that you are actually in a new country surrounded by a different culture and exciting opportunities. Even quiet or relaxed weekend can be a refreshing reminder of how exciting the experience you’re having is. Take for example this past weekend. I mentioned it was my first relaxed weekend, no trips or excursions out of the city or country, just a trip to the local Portobello beach and a few café study sessions. It all sounds fairly boring, but in addition to just giving myself a chance to recharge, it was a pleasant reminder of the fact that even the small, seemingly insignificant features around you, such as a short beach strip and pier, the local pub, or a small café, are part of a unique and exciting new culture and landscape that you can constantly be soaking in.
It’s happened. I have crossed over to the dark side and officially become a tea drinker. I wasn’t expecting to, and to be entirely honest, was in many ways hoping I wouldn’t, but the conversion has happened. I now regularly drink more tea than coffee, even in the mornings – what has my life come to? Of course I realize how overly dramatic and bizarre I sound with all this, but as I’ve mentioned before, I am a fairly avid coffee drinker and usually a hesitant tea consumer, so the realization that I now drink more tea than coffee in a day came as quite a shock.
So, as I sat there the other morning drinking my cup of lemon ginger clippings tea, reveling in my new realization and listening to my flatmate joke about how British I’ve become, it occurred to me just how many little British and Scottish habits and practices I had picked up over the last few weeks. A lot of people assume the cultural exchange when studying abroad is limited to new foods, dress, and popular culture references, but there are so many more subtle habits and cultural aspects that crossover without you realizing it. These are especially apparent when you participate in a direct exchange program like this where you predominately interact with local students rather than other Americans.
So here are the top four unexpected cultural habits I’ve picked up over thus far:
1. Tea over coffee
This is probably the most generic and stereotypical example, but it’s happened and I’m still coping.
2. Question Inflection
Now I haven’t started to speak with a Scottish accent, but it has been pointed out to me several times that I phrase questions with a British inflection. I’m not quite sure how to describe it, but if you visit or study in the UK, or watch enough British television, you’ll know exactly what I am talking about.
3. Saying “trousers” or “jeans” but avoiding “pants” at all costs
Now I realize that this is another rather strange sounding cultural habit or practice, but it is definitely one that will happen to you if you study or visit here. The term “pants” refers to a very different article of clothing than it does in the States, so you learn quickly that not all statements about your pants are socially acceptable. Like most other Scottish and British slang phrases like “clever” or “bloody,” most people tend to pick up on this one rather quickly.
4. Thinking like a Brit or a Scot
This is another one that is a bit more difficult to properly describe, but over the past few weeks, I have definitely noticed a difference in my normal mindset. For example, I am much more sarcastic and my sense of humor is getting dryer by the day. I also find myself a bit more reserved in social interactions, a characteristic I’ve realized is quite normal and common for many Brits. I’ve also started to notice the differences between North and South regions of the UK and make reference to them on a fairly regular basis. Now of course these are minor details, but it seems that almost everyday I am seeing more and more of the Scottish perspective and more exciting yet, actually understanding and internalizing them.
With all the political uproar about the government shutdown occupying the news both back home in the States and even here in the UK, I figured it’d be a good time to finally familiarize myself with the current state of political affairs here Scotland, especially since Edinburgh is the capital. I also figured it was about time I find out what all the “Independent Socialist Scotland” and unionist posters that coat telephone booths, news boxes and alley walls throughout the city meant. So, here is what I’ve found out in my week of on-the-ground research:
Basic Set-up of UK v. Scottish Political Structure:
1. Scotland, although its own country, is part of the UK and Great Britain.
1a. Great Britain includes England, Scotland, Whales and Northern Ireland.
1b. British does NOT equate to English, but rather anyone from Great Britain. In fact, a lot of people, especially younger generations, identify as British over a specific country ethnicity, like Scottish or Welsh, because there is so much overlap and movement of people across borders within the UK.
2. Although much of Scottish policy comes from the British parliament in London, Scotland also has its own devolved parliament that operates here in Edinburgh in an iconic building.
2a. The Parliamentary building does not contain a single right angle, interior and exterior structure included.
3. Despite a semi-independent government, Scotland still receives a significant portion of its funding from the British government.
Current Affairs & The Referendum:
1. The message behind the posters, is the coming referendum for independence that Scotland is in the process of deciding upon. This is easily the biggest issue on the political plate here and a topic of heated debate almost anywhere you go.
1a. The referendum would declare Scotland an independent state from the United Kingdom and Great Britain, similar to Ireland.
1b. Talks of the referendum first seriously began in 2007, and the actual vote for independence will take place on September 18, 2014.
1c. The Referendum Bill is possible because “Royal Assent” will be given, meaning essentially that it is the decision of the Scottish Parliament, rather than the British Parliament.
2. In November, the official White Paper, as well as the unionist proposals will be published.
3. The vote is split, but it’s very difficult to determine just how evenly it is split.
3a. The young vote will be key for both sides, similar to the importance of the young vote in the 2008 presidential election.
3b. Because of this, residents need only be 16 to vote.
3c. Not all young Scots want independence. Take my flatmate for example. She is very much against it, both economically and nationalistically, as she considers herself British more than Scottish.
4. You can vote as on the referendum as long as you are a current resident of Scotland, which includes 366, 755 English-born citizens, as well as 32,049 Northern Irish and 15,120 Welsh-born citizens.
4a. If you were born in Scotland, but currently live elsewhere in the UK, you cannot vote. That includes nearly 800,000 Scottish-born individuals.
5. The bill only needs more than 50% of the vote to pass. There is no turnout requirement.
I still haven’t figured out all the details, so I can’t make much of an opinion on the matter, but it is definitely one of the more difficult aspects of everyday Scottish life to relate to. The referendum is a daily conversation for a lot of people here, even if they are not very political, but it is difficult to relate anything similar actually happening in the US; just imagine a state voting to remove itself from the country. Sure, there are petitions and jokes that Texas and other states will succeed, but to take those notions as a serious option is somehow unfathomable.
The first thoughts that come to mind when we think of spending a semester studying abroad usually run along the lines of traveling to new and exotic places, meeting new people and trying new things you’d never find back home in the States. Oddly enough though, we rarely include actually studying and taking classes on that list. While admittedly, studying for exams probably won’t be the most fun you’ll have while abroad, if you come at it with the approach, you might end up actually enjoying your time with those textbooks.
1. Café Crawl
If you’re in a city like Edinburgh, you’re likely to encounter quite a few cafes and coffee shops. So rather than limiting yourself to just pub crawls, try a few coffee crawls, (or park, bookstore or museum crawls, or wherever your studying preference may be). I’m personally a fan of coffee shops and cafes, so instead of holing myself up in my flat or the library this first week of classes, which yes, if you study in Edinburgh you will be expected to do actual work starting the first day of classes (and in some cases, before the first day), my flat mates and I spent our Friday morning and Sunday on café crawls, where we tried out the local cafes and coffee shops in search of the perfect studying spot. Not only did it give us a chance to explore the area and hit the books, but it also gave us a taste of the local cuisine and native favorites, like apricot scones and various teas and hot chocolates. It was quite a good learning experience in terms of local culture as well. For example, although not as rampant as the stereotypes would suggest, tea tends to be the preferred and usually less expensive drink of choice here. Also, coffee here typically follows the European example, rather than the American, so a warning for anyone who prefers just a plain cup of coffee in the morning: it’s hard to find. Since plain brewed coffee isn’t a common drink here, if you go into a café and ask for a cup of coffee, the person behind the counter will ask you what kind. If you’re going for plain black coffee, an Americano or a Long Black is usually the best option, but they both vary between shops in what they actually mean, so don’t be afraid to ask.
If you do happen to be studying in Edinburgh or just visiting and need a nice place to grab something to drink and read a book here are my personal recommendations:
1. Beanscene Coffee and Music House
2. Press Coffee
3. Black Medicine Coffee Co.
(All of which are located in the George Square campus.)
2. Take Advantage of Supplemental Learning Resources
This one is pretty simple, especially if you are in Edinburgh. Utilize the unique off-campus resources, like the free national museums like the National Museum or the National Gallery, historical sites like the Edinburgh Castle or the Underground, historical tours, or local and national nature reserves like the Hermitage of Braid. There are usually at least one or two sites that are relevant to whatever you’re studying and since much of the UK education system is based on self-guided study, it is a great way to immerse yourself into the material, as well as the local culture and history, without having to read a book for hours. Or at the very least, it gives you an excuse to do all the touristy-things without having to actually be a tourist.
3. Make Studying a Learning Experience
As I just mentioned, the UK education system is much different than that of the US. Courses are based on self-guided study, which means you have much less class and homework assignments, but are expected to do much more work on your own, including personal research and background reading. Now that can be rather intimidating, but it can also be a great way to explore other ways of teaching, explore your own areas of interest, and maybe even give you some useful preparation and perspective for your thesis or grad school.
4. Learn from a Local Perspective
In addition to experiencing a new teaching style, studying abroad is a great way to get a new perspective on a subject you already study or to learn about something unique to your location. For example, one of the courses I am taking this semester is Conservation Management. Granted, this doesn’t exactly seem like a typical local-perspective based course like Scottish History or Gaelic Culture, but as one of Europe’s leaders in conservation and the sustainability, Edinburgh, and Scotland more generally, offers a very different approach and perspective on conservation methods and techniques that I would never be able to learn or engage with back home. Classes like this are also a great way to learn about related historical, political or cultural aspects of your location without having to take a history or politics course. In my case, the conservation course gives insight to cultural values, historical events that have shaped the current state of affairs and political policies like the establishment of the Scottish National Nature Reserves System and Scotland’s role in international conservation efforts and planning. If you’re not interested in or not able to explore new perspectives, studying abroad is also a great time to take a completely random course unique to your location, like Medieval Scottish History or Scottish Pict Archaeology.
5. Don’t be Afraid of a Challenge
Last, but certainly not least, don’t be afraid to challenge yourself with difficult courses while abroad. For many programs you have the option of take first or second year courses in addition to the upper-level courses. Sure, introductory courses are easier and allow you more time for non-academic pursuits, but they also limit your opportunities. At the University of Edinburgh at least, many of the upper-level courses not only offer smaller, more engaging classes, which means you actually get to meet and get to know new people, but also more chances to take advantage of the unique opportunities in the city and university. For example, my Conservation Management course (a fourth-year course) brings in guest speakers every week from all over Scotland to teach us about policies, methods and current issues in conservation. Similarly, my Principles of Ecology course (a third-year course) involves an in-depth project at a local nature reserve and my Plant Evolution course (a fourth-year course) includes visits to several Scottish agricultural and botanical research sites, including the Royal Botanical Gardens. Of course, these upper-level classes obviously involve more work and can be rather challenging depending on your background, but it’s a fair trade-off for the immersion opportunities that you cannot get with a 200 person introductory lecture.
Halò from Edinburgh, Scotland, where tartan kilts are not uncommon, bagpipe music can be heard at most times from at least a few places throughout the city, and the people are exceedingly kind to atone for the glum daily drizzles and chilly air. Obviously these are all exaggerations and stereotypes that are mostly untrue, although the first night I arrived in Edinburgh there were bagpipes being played for several hours just outside my flat window. Nevertheless, in having these stereotyped expectations shattered, my experience abroad has already proven to be a learning opportunity. There are of course hundreds of little things I’ve learned just in the first few days of being here, but as I am still sorting things out for myself, I’ll keep my sharing to just the highlighted lessons I’ve learned during my first few days here at the University of Edinburgh:
Once I had finally landed in Edinburgh, got through customs and had my passport freshly stamped with a visa, I started to make my way to my flat via the city’s public bus system with printouts of various bus routes and street maps at the ready in my hand. I was all set to take this city by storm, like a true Scottish local. Naturally, I was lost within five minutes of getting off the first bus, which meant my first encounter with a native Scotsman, would be me inquiring about directions. That’s right, my first interaction consisted of me timidly asking a woman at a bus stop if she knew the way to East Newington Place where I was meant to check in. Her response was not only friendly and graciously non-judgmental of my complete lack of local knowledge and, by this point, quite blatant frustration with my own inability to find the way and the weight of the luggage I was dragging along with me. Of course, as most students would, I was quite hesitant to admit defeat so soon upon arrival and rather disappointed that I hadn’t been able to master the tricks of the city’s natives, but it did teach me the very first lesson of studying abroad: Lesson Number 1: You will get lost. You will try to figure it out on your own as to not look like an incompetent American. You will, most likely, inevitably fail at figuring it out on your own and eventually give in and ask someone for directions. In the case of Edinburgh, that individual will likely be exceedingly friendly and helpful, as I have confirmed with the numerous interactions I’ve had since, and, if you are fortunate enough to run into the same woman that helped me on my journey from the Edinburgh airport to Hermit’s Croft (my flat), they may even flag down a bus just to ask the driver the best route to wherever it is you need to be.
Two bus routes and a quick taxi ride later, I finally made it to my accommodation where, after checking in and getting keys, I started unpacking and settling in and meeting my fellow flatmates, another American exchange student, and two Edinburgh students, one British and one Scottish. The nice thing about an exchange program is that you are thrown right into everyday student life just as though you were a normal student starting at the university. In this case, that meant attending Fresher’s Week, which is similar to orientation and Welcome Week at American universities, only it occurs the week before classes actually begin and the only students on campus are the students new to the university. The downside of an exchange program though is that you are also immediately thrown into the deep end of a new culture with no real guidance, meaning you are left to figure out much of the local culture and systems on your own, which can often be a long, albeit entertaining process. Surprises and misunderstandings become quite common, even when you’re speaking the same language as the rest of the country. For example, I am still regularly surprised at how comparatively focused, calm and level-headed freshman here are as opposed to many American students, and that doesn’t even begin to delve into the various subtle differences between US and British cultures. Fortunately for me, my flatmates have been incredibly helpful in this arena and are always happy to explain things to me, especially when it involves my frequently failed attempts to master Scottish and Gaelic pronunciations. For example, I spent all week talking about the Ceilidh, which is a traditional Scottish dance and celebratory event, but was so confused as to why no one knew what I was talking about whenever I mentioned the cee-lid. That was until my flatmate explained to me that the correct pronunciation was actually kay-lees since it was a Gaelic tradition. In other instances I offered to make biscuits, which are cookies in the UK, as a side for dinner, twisted the structures of identity within the UK, particularly in the differences between the UK, the British, and the English/Scottish, (helpful hint: if you’re studying abroad anywhere in the UK, make sure you know the distinctions between these), confused and convoluted the education set-up of courses, and, on more than one occasion, butchered explanations of the various Scottish dishes, like haggis and neeps. And these misunderstandings only begin to scratch the surface of the cultural differences I’ve encountered. However, all these mistakes and missteps on my part have only led to a better understanding of the country and the culture, leading me to the second lesson I’ve learned this week. Lesson Number 2: You don’t have to acclimate to the culture right away. In fact, it’s rather unlikely that you will, and although the differences that exist within another Western country like the UK may not be as imposing or apparent as those that exist within some other destinations, there will be necessary adjustments that you have to make and while subtle, they may not be easy. Despite the fact that we haven’t actually started classes yet, this past week has been an exceedingly valuable learning process, and although most of the differences I’ve encountered have been relatively subtle and unobtrusive to everyday life, they continue to come as little shocks and surprises and take a bit of getting used to. But by slowly adjusting to these differences, rather than trying to acclimate immediately, I’ve been able to actually understand and appreciate the social and cultural differences.
Edinburgh, Scotland
That brings me the final lesson I’ve learnt this past week. Lesson Number 3: It is okay to be a tourist sometimes and it’s alright to embrace being American. When I was preparing to study abroad, I had it in my mind that the best way to have a genuine experience was to integrate myself seamlessly into the culture as though I’d lived in Scotland my entire life. In fact, I had even convinced myself that any inkling of a tourist notion or reminder that I was American would somehow cheapen the experience of being abroad; however, in the past few days I’ve learnt that the opposite actually tends to be true. Since I arrived in the city, I’ve gone to several of the national museums, introduced my flatmates to American s’mores, wandered the busy main streets and, perhaps the most touristy experience of them all, hiked up Arthur’s Seat (an extinct volcano in the center of Edinburgh that overlooks the entire city and the much of the coast). Now of course, all of these blatantly conflict with the ideas I held before arriving, but as it turns out, they have also been some of the most fun experiences I’ve had since being here. As incredibly cliché as it sounds, as I reached the top of Arthur’s Seat the other day, it occurred to me that had I adhered to my conviction that it was best to avoid any main tourist attraction, I would not be experiencing the best view of Edinburgh and the coast. I also would have missed the impressive collections of Scottish art and history within the museums, the Edinburgh castle, the beautiful architecture and rich history of Edinburgh’s Old Town.
Of course, I am by no means suggesting that a study abroad experience be limited to or even based around a tourist agenda or that you spend your semester missing the comforts and amenities of home, but rather just expressing that it is actually acceptable, and often advisable, to take advantage of and embrace those tourist impulses every once in a while, celebrate and share the cultural differences that make you unique, indulge in some cliché adventures. Who knows, they just might lead you to one of the best views of the city.
