By Ty Malcolm
Tell your classmates you're studying in Austria, and you might get a joke about kangaroos. Mention Vienna, and you might spark a conversation about the canals of Venice. Eventually I just got used to these misunderstandings and had some answers ready. What was a little more difficult to explain was my destination for my week-long hiking trip in the Austrian Alps - the Montafon Valley, a mountainous region in the westernmost federal state (Bundesland) of Vorarlberg.
Vorarlberg is the one of the smallest Bundesländer, and it is bordered by Switzerland, Liechtenstein, and Germany. With these neighbors Vorarlberg shares Lake Constance, one of the largest lakes in Europe. Its 380,000 inhabitants, mostly Catholics (78%) and Muslims (8%), live nestled in valleys flanked by towering peaks. With a bustling economy and a dialect that is closer to Swiss German, their culture is a unique mix of old and new. My adventure began with a 8 hour train journey from Vienna - made a bit longer by train issues! Luckily we had a nice view while we waited.
My home base was Schruns, a small town known since the early 1900's for its ski slopes. Many of the techniques for avalanche Search & Rescue developed by this region's ski instructors are still in use today. The village drew several famous personalities, including one of my favorite authors: Ernest Hemingway.
For two consecutive winters in the 1920s, he brought his first wife and their infant son to the Hotel Taube, which almost a century later was happy to take my reservation as well.
During his first winter there, Hemingway drafted The Sun Also Rises, which became his first true commercial success in 1926. Although some of the interior has been rearranged, the Stammtisch (in English, roughly "regulars' table") where Hemingway drank and gambled with the locals, is still in the hotel. "You must sit here!" the owner exclaimed to me in English as I came down for breakfast - Those would be some of the last words of English I heard on the trip. Even in the early morning, everyone is in a good mood - I must have said Guten Morgen! at least 10 times before finishing my breakfast.
Nowadays, there is just as much to do in the Montafon Valley during the summer as during the winter season. As the snow melts, endless hiking trails and high altitude restaurants begin to reveal themselves. By the time of my August visit, only the tallest peaks retain their snow. With the roads clear, there are regular buses out to the trailheads and lift stations. A map is a must - there are just too many options! The hiking buses are filled with Germans and Austrians young and old, chattering about their plans for the day. Everyone is excited to hit start the ascent. We run into a lot of Austria's four-legged inhabitants along the way...
I planned my hikes around an important theme: food! Somewhere between ascent and descent, I wanted to eat the traditional food at one of the many restaurants, inns, and chalets along the way. Some were small and tucked away, while others had large outdoor patios for relaxing. (If this link to the Livecam works, you can see what I mean!) The food was much cheaper here than in Switzerland, and is almost always sourced locally.
I also tried out my GoPro camera! The results are anything but professional, but it's so scenic that no photo can turn out that bad.
Even after the hikes were over, I was still glad to come back to Schruns. It's a pretty town with lots of shops for outdoor gear, traditional goods, and amazing food. I was lucky - the annual Montafon summer festival was in town during my stay. Across the street in the church square was live music and more traditional food all through the evening. It felt good to relax on the hotel patio and listen to the festival. This trip was a perfect way to spend my free time before my program at WU actually starts!
The owner of the Taube wanted to hear all about my time in Washington and Vienna. I told him that orientation and German classes were starting soon, and that after such a great experience, I was definitely sad to leave. As if reading my mind, he asked "You will come back?" --"When I learn to ski!" -- Is it too early to make plans for Christmas break??