April 2015 – Page 3 – GW Blogs from Abroad

The Climb

AdminApril 14, 2015

A view of Paris from the top of the Arc de Triomphe

One thing all of my travels have had in common is an overabundance of old (sometimes ancient, sometimes medieval) stairs. Trips throughout Italy, Greece, Portugal, France and, of course, Spain, have all left me waking up the next morning with my calves aching and my quadriceps burning. All of these countries have incredible and unforgettable sights that are only accessible through, yep, you guessed it…stairs. St. Peter’s Basilica in Rome, the Acropolis in Athens, the Arc de Triomphe in Paris, the Torre de Belém in Lisbon, or the hundreds of cathedrals and castles all over Spain (I’ve been to ones in Madrid, Barcelona, Segovia, Córdoba and Seville)—they’ve all got steep and tiny staircases.

FullSizeRender — Me, feeling victorious after a climb up a mountain in Santorini, Greece.

I laugh writing this because such a method of reaching a tourist destination is something I could never imagine being widespread in the U.S. We are a young country, with taller, and more modern buildings that almost always have elevator access. Imagine climbing your way up to the top of the Empire State building? Yea, didn’t think so! Blame it on our age, or blame it on our laziness—whichever the case, America doesn’t do stairs. But Europe, I can tell you, most certainly does.

My various and strenuous climbs all throughout Europe have ironically been some of the most memorable parts of my trips. When my friends and I sit and talk about the memories we’ve made, we almost always end up coming back to the time we were dripping with sweat as we finally reached the top of the Arc de Triomphe, the time we made friends with strangers through our common struggle up St. Peter’s Basilica, or the time I was so scared, that I couldn’t speak without stuttering the whole way down the steps of a Segovian castle. Because of these moments, we actually ended up appreciating the journey more than the actual view that we were climbing up to see. Here, I charter into dangerous waters by quoting the ever so insightful Miley Cyrus: “Ain't about how fast I get there, Ain't about what's waiting on the other side…It's the climb”

11130560_10205229639875146_1026386742_n — My friends and I at the top of a castle tower overlooking the city of Segovia, Spain.

All of those climbs have served as lessons for me, too. There were some pretty great moments when it was about the climb, and what was waiting on the other side. In fact, our journeys up just about a thousand steps are what made what was waiting for us at the top all the more worthwhile. To walk up the hill to the Acropolis and then stand in the presence of some of the most ancient and historical buildings in the world is a truly breathtaking experience—one worth every exerted breath on the hike up. I also learned how unhealthy Americans are, as a society. All of the cathedrals, castles and forts that I climbed, I climbed right alongside people who were three times my age, and maybe even more. Sometimes, they even seemed to be struggling less. For me, it was a true testament to the healthy lifestyle that most Europeans lead, and made me realized that I need to do more things like that once I get back home.

Until next time!

Easter Away from Home

AdminApril 14, 2015December 14, 2018

By Ashlyn

I don't usually go home for Easter in the U.S., but I do usually spend it with my family. For the past two years, my parents have made the drive down to D.C and have taken me and my boyfriend out for Easter brunch to celebrate. This year, 4,000 miles away from home, an Easter reunion just wasn't in the cards. I had accepted the fact that I was probably going to have to spend the holiday alone.

Luckily, my host family swooped in with an offer of Easter lunch festivities. Never one to pass up a chance to learn more Danish traditions (or any offer of food), I eagerly accepted.

The traditional American Easter spread usually consists of either a glazed ham or a roasted lamb, with potatoes and spring salads on the side. Rolls are also usually present at the table, or some other sort of white bread to go along with the meal. For dessert, something light like angel food cake, vanilla custard, or a lemon tart is typically served. Americans tend to eat quickly and the meal usually lasts for only an hour or so.

The traditional Danish Easter is much different. Our lunch was a multi-course affair that lasted five hours (with many between-course breaks, but still). The first course included two types of bread (rye and sourdough), three different types of pickled herring (regular, dill, and curry), hard-boiled eggs, shrimp, crab salad, and fried fish with remoulade. For the second course, we had frikadeller (fried meatballs), hakkebøf (ground beef casserole), and stegt flæsk (roasted pork). After that, a cheese and fruit course. And then dessert: hindbærsnitter (raspberry bars) and my contribution, Easter brownies.

Oh, and beer and plenty of Danish snaps (aquavit).

Also of note: American Easter traditions include opening Easter baskets, usually filled with candy, and hunting Easter eggs hidden around the house by parents. Favorite Easter candies include jelly beans, Cadbury eggs, and Robin's Eggs.

Danish Easter traditions are a little different. Instead of Easter baskets, Danes feast on huge hollow chocolate eggs that are filled with sweet treats. Easter egg hunts do happen, but more popular is the tradition of "gækkebreve" -- you write letters to your friends and family, but leave out your name. The receiver of the letter has to guess who sent the letter. If they can't guess, they owe you a chocolate egg! Easter candy in Denmark includes Haribo gummies and the ever-popular treat of licorice.

But as different as they are, both Danish and American Easter celebrations end the same way for me: with a nice long nap on the couch!

Murals from "The Troubles"

AdminApril 14, 2015December 14, 2018

By kennatim

While I can appreciate a good work of art, I am not much of an art museum person and would not exactly call myself an art aficionado. Rather, my most exciting experience involving art has been witnessing the giant politically charged murals in the cities of Northern Ireland this past week. The tension is still very much in the air, after hot conflict known as “The Troubles” occurred all throughout the area between Catholic unionists and Protestant loyalists from the 1960s to the 1990s. The violence, bombings, and riots tore the area apart, and neighborhoods are still visibly divided.

Last week I went for a 2-day, 1-night trip to Belfast with each member of my CIEE Dublin program. It was incredibly interesting to tour the City Centre, neighborhoods which had experienced so much violence, and even the dry dock where the Titanic was built. What made it even better was that I got to take it in with 32 friends. The most interesting section to me was the murals and the memorials surrounding the Catholic and Protestant neighborhoods where violence took place. They were colorful and diverse in nature: involving memorials for murdered children, hatred towards the other side, people picking up arms, commemorating a bombing, international figures like Nelson Mandela and Martin Luther King Jr., support for Palestine, and general intimidation and territory-marking in what could essentially be considered a turf war.

We spoke in hushed tones during our tour, as the city is still vibrant and the effects still lasting. I could not get over how well done artistically many of the murals were, but also the differences in rhetoric between Catholic and Protestant neighborhood murals. While a Protestant mural might reference a heinous crime by a “republican murder gang,” a Catholic mural referencing the same event might commemorate the “heroic IRA freedom fighters.”

The only thing that could come close in tension to Belfast was Derry. I found Derry (called “Londonderry” by loyalists) to be even edgier, as it was a majority Catholic city in Protestant Northern Ireland. Therefore, the majority that felt repressed by the minority (where the famous “Bloody Sunday” took place) was very active in their speech and action against the British and loyalists. There was no shortage of fiery murals here as well. Included in this post is a picture I took with a pro-British mural, an obvious reference to British dominance and destruction of Catholics in Derry, taken in one of the small Protestant neighborhoods. There were murals of children approaching tanks, men ready for war, of more international peace leaders, etc. Some black & white and some in vivid color, some the size of entire buildings, and some accompanying a memorial garden.

I found Derry to be more interesting than Belfast, mostly because I was given a tour by my distant cousin from Galway, Joe McDonagh, who grew up hearing about new violence occurring in Northern Ireland on the news just about every other day. He gave firsthand insight of the importance of the sites, and helped me to understand how different the environment was less than twenty years ago. I also recently found out that a distant cousin of mine was an MP in English Parliament who fought for the rights of Catholics in Northern Ireland, named Bernadette Devlin.

My two escapes to the North were eye opening. We as young Americans can have such an American-focused view towards the world that we do not realize how much emotion and conflict can consume a country we consider to be well civilized and modern. The many murals in Derry and Belfast helped to give me this insight. I hope it is not the last time I visit the North, and I hope the next time I do, it will be continuing its journey to a peaceful society as it has been for the past two decades.

5 of My Favorite Things

AdminApril 12, 2015December 14, 2018

By kaandle

This weekend has been refreshingly warm so don't mind my emphasis on lazy outdoor activities where lounging on the grass and soaking in the sun is finally do-able without the addition of a heavy down jacket.

1. Mauerpark

The translation is literally wall-park. The large grassy area is overlooked by a graffiti-filled wall that stands at the top of a hill. Every Sunday, rain or shine, regardless of holidays, a large flee market opens and holds everything you could possibly desire. From bags to jewelry to furniture or bratwurst, you can easily spend your entire day here. Now that the weather is finally getting warmer, the grass lawn and hill just outside the market come to life on Sunday's as well. There are large ampiltheaters built into the side of the hill where karaoke takes place with an enthusiastic crowd. Musicians, artists and singers set up all around, performing mini concerts and competing for audiences. There is definitely a 90s music festival feel to this place and you'll never leave feeling like you've wasted your Sunday.

2. A Drink by the Spree

The Spree is the river that runs through Berlin and creates a small island filled with impressive buildings - both due to their external architecture and their inner contents. This area is revered to as "Museum Isel". On the other side of the Spree, overlooking one of the most notable museums, the Bode, a casual and relaxing area for pedestrians has been created. There are a few restaraunts and bars along the back that all put out folding chairs and provide blankets incase the weather turns. If you don't want to perchase anything there is plenty of green and wall space to sit, lounge and make a day or afternoon of hanging with friends. With all of Berlins alternative and more edgy space, this is an unusual spot where you can momentarily remember Berlin's old anddefinitely European history.

3. Tempelhof

This is another space that has a bit of a retro feel to it. Built as an airport in 1923, the original layout of Tempelhof, including tar mats, transport roads and terminal structures still remain. When the site was shut down in 2008, Berliners protested for the area to be open to the public rather than sold to private investers and they succeeded. Today Tempelhof is a public park, but there have been no structural changes to the property. With so much free space - both green and black - the activities that go on here are endless. Walking from one end to the other (a poor decision on my part as I was trying to meet up with people and did it factor in the massive size of an airport landing strip) I passed people riding bikes, skateboards, wind boards and segways, rolling on skates, jogging, lounging, barbecuing and picnicking. Kites were flying and everywhere you looked there were large amounts of people, yet you never felt like you were running out of room. Absolutely a wonderful place to spend a beautiful day.

4. People Watch

Personally, I think coffee shops are the best place to people watch. There's a continuous flow of people and on top of being entertained there is a constant supply of food and coffee. There are such eclectic people to be found in Berlin. Sometimes it's just absolutely necessary to sit back and observe the awesomely individual spirit of Berlin. You see people's personalities through heir demeanor, clothes and hairstyle. Middle aged women with colorful (and by that I mean colors of the rainbow) hair and innovative fashion grabbing their coffee with a briefcase in their hand that you later realize is for their job as a lawyer or teacher is a very cool dichotomy we don't have the pleasure of seeing very often in the U.S.

5. Museum Hunt

On top of Museum Isel, mentioned above, almost every street has some kind of museum - whether that's one room or an extensive exhibit it to be determined, but my point is museums are everywhere. For the classics Museum Isel has the ancient and impressive collections. Nephertiti's famous bust, for example, is on perminant display at the Neues Museum. Additinally, there are museums for all aspects of Berlin's history - some bring you through the entirety of Berlin's history since the 13th century while others are specifically highlighting the histories of East and West Berlin before German reunification in 1990. Moreover, apart from historical and archeological museums there are more contemporary hideaways and art galleries sprinkled all around the city. The Smithsonian museums in D.C. Have definitely spoiled me with free admission, but it's worth the small bill to experience the museums Berlin has to offer. But if you don't feel like spending a few bucks, just walking around Berlin is an art galery in itself.

Top Five Favorite Things to Do in Maastricht:

AdminApril 3, 2015December 14, 2018

By glaveym

BIKE. Biking in The Netherlands is as commonplace to Dutch culture as our reliance on cars in the U.S. It is not only the main mode of transportation, it a social phenomenon for university-age students. As a GW student might walk to class, split a cab, or rent a zip-car, with a friend, biking is always better when done with your friends. It has a special novelty here in Maastricht, as the border with Belgium is a brisk ten minutes by bike. The Netherlands is a country with bike paths that equal in length to freeways, and a country with a population of over 16 million, but over 18 million bikes.
VISIT THE REPURPOSED CHURCHES. Dutch culture, throughout its long history, has always placed a particular emphasis on religion. However, in more modern times, the country has increasingly moved more and more towards a society of complete secularism. Not a people to waste, the Dutch, and citizens of Maastricht, have done a wonderful job of repurposing no longer used churches to fit a variety of purposes. Boekhandel Dominican, an over 1000 year-old church in the center of town, now functions as a book-store, with modernist architecture and thousands of titles for any variation of book-enthusiast. Even more impressive is the Kruisherenhotel Maastricht, a design hotel that just happens to find itself in a church dating from the 15^th Not only is its architecture regal, it has been known to house the Dutch Royal Family on their many visits to Maastricht.
GO TO SCHOOL. University College Maastricht has been a truly pivotal part of my study abroad experience. A small community of liberal arts students, coming from all over the world to study or study abroad, it truly feels like an oasis in the hustle and bustle of exchange life. The classes are formatted to be twenty students or less, and the range of class offerings offer a truly multi-disciplinary academic experience. Being involved enough was a concern of mine coming into my study abroad experience, but UCM has facilitated my transition nicely, and the countless extra-curricular offerings and nightly events quench my thirst for learning outside the classroom.
STUDY ON THE WALL. UCM is located just along the old Roman city wall of Maastricht, which foundations were laid when Maastricht was established as one of the oldest towns in The Netherlands, in approximately 500 BC. The wall, although dauntingly tall, provides a wide enough ledge to sit on and look over the city, and on especially sunny, clear days, a place to study, listen to music, or enjoy the company of friends.
EAT DELCIOUS DUTCH TREATS. Although The Netherlands may be known for its tulips, water, and cheese, an often-overlooked aspect of Dutch living is the delicious food. As I live in the very south of the country, in a province known as Limburg, my experience comes with a whole host of delicious delicacies unique to Limburg. One of my personal favorites has to be vlaai, a crossover between a pie and a tart, served with a variety of different fresh fruits and fillings. It is always freshly made daily across the city, and if you’re lucky enough, you can catch a smell as you bike by the bakkerij, or bakery.

A Week with Istanbul

AdminApril 3, 2015

One of the amazing things about my abroad program is that twice during the semester all 19 of us pick up and travel to another country for a week. This past week I spent my time in Istanbul, Turkey and it was incredible. Our time consisted of lectures from impressive university faculty, tours of the historic areas and free time to explore on our own.

Inside the Hagia Sophia - a building that has served as both a mosque and church over the centuries. It has been a museum since the 1920s.

Istanbul is one of the most different places I have ever been. In the moments when the entire city was engulfed by the call to prayer being played from each of the more than three thousand mosques I felt the need to stop, listen and absorb the environment around me. The uniqueness of Istanbul's complex history was especially apparent when I was standing in a Greek church and the call to prayer began, echoing off the walls and highlighting one of the things that makes Istanbul so intriguing and beautiful.

It's a cosmopolitan center where religion, culture and history have overlapped for centuries. The depth of Istanbul's past is almost unfathomable. Walking through the Basilica Cistern, Hagia Sofia and old, but operating, bazaars puts you directly in contact with Istanbul's history, but it's still hard to comprehend that this is a place that has functioned as a city since the 600s BC and served as the capital for three empires - Roman, Byzantine and Ottoman. Clearly with so much history and so many sites to see I was happy to have an entire week to explore, but my time here could have easily been extended.

Intricate tile domed ceiling of the Blue Mosque.

Now it's time to return to normal class schedules after a week of midterms and a week of adventuring. While this would normally be the moment to interject an objection to returning to school, homework and extensive reading requirements, I'm surprisingly excited to continue my schedule. All the classes offered aim to relate, compare and discuss common ideas and principles between metropolitan centers. After this week I definitely have a lot I'd like to discuss.

On the backpacker trail

AdminApril 1, 2015December 14, 2018

By practiceyogadistrict

With a three-day weekend, a world of freedom opened so two friends and I decided to travel up to the north of Thailand to explore Chiang Mai, Chiang Rai, and Pai. The north is known for it’s lush green foliage and gorgeous mountains. Unfortunately we chose to go at the worst possible time because in the month of March, all the rice farmers burn their fields in order to grow herbs and mushrooms that sprout from the ashes. Though it’s an effective practice for the farmers to earn a little extra income from the second crop, it is horrible both for the environment and visibility, so our mountain views were a little less spectacular. Even so, getting out of our Khon Kaen bubble was fun and exciting.

Khon Kaen, as it would be, is the farthest thing from a tourist destination in Thailand. Comparatively, Chiang Mai, Chiang Rai, and Pai are major tourist destinations. As we disembarked our bus in Chiang Mai, we saw countless white faces in the crowds of Thai people. I was a little taken aback, being used to being one of the only farrang around in Khon Kaen. Even more shocking was when I arrived in Pai. Pai is a world of dreaded, tattooed, pierced European backpackers. I could walk down the street without seeing a single Thai. It was a place completely catered to tourists. There were even people dressed in Karen hill tribe cultural dress performing on the street to give the tourists a taste of the ‘culture.’

As I spent time in these tourist locales using my Thai language that I have garnered so far, I spoke in Thai with locals about my life and asked them about theirs. I found that the Thais I spoke with were pleasantly surprised and even excited to encounter a farrang who had more permanence in Thailand than other tourists. I became more than just a walking moneybag to them. Gaining even the simple ability to communicate on a deeper level gave me more humanity in their eyes. One friend I made along the way, an elephant trainer, even asked my friends and I to come back and work on the elephant farm with him.

What I realized through my long weekend is how blessed I am to get more than just a few days or weeks in Thailand as a tourist, but rather months studying and seeking to gain as much understanding as possible about the culture in which I am living. Tourists who make their rounds of Thailand go to the beaches in the south, Bangkok for the big city experience, and then Chiang Mai/Chiang Rai/ Pai in the north to see pretty mountains. They stay on the tourist trail where it is easy to communicate in English. They see the sights, buy some trinkets, and then they move along to the next country. Though I have four short months, I am getting far more than any tourist might. I am gaining empathy.

Licorice, Birthdays, and Respect

AdminApril 1, 2015December 14, 2018

By Ashlyn

"You don't have to swallow it," my friend Carly told me, wincing as though she could feel my pain.

"When I start something, I finish it," I replied, though I'm sure my face was full of regret. And my mouth was full of -- what else? -- salty licorice, a favorite snack of the Danes. But this was the strongest, most powerful salty licorice I have tasted in all of my days.

How did I get in this position? Let's rewind several hours and I'll explain.

I woke up early on Saturday. Carly and I had been invited by our visiting family to a lunch and birthday party that afternoon. At DIS, a visiting family is a Danish family that the school matches you up with to spend time with throughout the semester. It is for students who are not in a homestay -- a chance to get a taste of everyday life for a Danish family, to practice your language skills, and to meet new people.

Our visiting family lives about a 20 minute drive from Copenhagen in a nice house in the Danish suburbs. They have a sweet dog and a teenage son. We arrived round noon and found an incredible lunch spread laid out for us: seared duck slices; homemade rye bread; brie and fresh jam; lumpfish roe and blinis with creme fraiche; salmon and cucumber roulades; Danish meatballs with red cabbage on the side. We feasted and talked about the day's plans. A nephew was having a birthday -- he was very young. It would be a chance to see how the Danes celebrate. In Danish class we learned that there is usually singing and some sort of cake and a lot of Danish flags. I was excited to learn more.

We arrived at the birthday party, where about 30 adults and children were busily moving about a small house. It was cramped but the mood was happy. Our hosts greeted us and even though we were full from lunch we were encouraged to eat more -- this time a pork goulash with rice, a kale salad, and garlic bread. I used as much Danish as I could remember: tak (thank you), undskuld (excuse me), nej (no), plus several longer phrases. The family seemed impressed, but when they tried to ask me more complicated questions I had to switch over to English.

When dessert rolled around, we were already stuffed but we made room to sample the ice cream, meringue cake and cream puffs that were laid out on the counter. On the tables were big bowls of licorice gummies. Here is where I messed up -- I took a licorice candy and put it on Carly's plate, daring her to eat it. She refused, throwing the dare back at me. Of course I ate it.

"Ashlyn ate a licorice!" said my visiting dad, impressed. "One of the strong ones!"

"That one wasn't very strong," said my visiting mother. It was going to take more to impress her. I asked which gummy was strongest. "Hold on," she said, and disappeared into the back of the house.

A few moments later, she came back with several jars of frightening-looking licorice candies. "These are the really strong ones!" she said, while the rest of the family cheered. All eyes were on me. Was the American going to eat the strong salted licorice, or was she going to back out at the last second? Of course I was going to eat it. I couldn't get out of this now.

I began with a smaller piece of the salted. The puckery taste of the candy stuck to my teeth but wasn't too bad. It went down okay. I moved onto a larger piece that was a bit less appetizing. It was difficult to finish but I did it. The Danes encouraged me, collecting around the table as they watched the scene unfold. The final piece was a licorice candy dusted in salty licorice powder and with an extra-strong licorice core at the center. The moment I placed it in my mouth I was filled with regret. This had not been my best idea.

"You don't have to swallow it," Carly said, which brings us back full circle. But I did. I probably shouldn't have, but I did. And afterwards I had to lie down for a bit to let the nausea subside. Let me just say that nothing can prepare you for the awfulness that is salted licorice. Nothing.

My visiting dad leaned in to me. "That was very impressive! You have our respect!" Score -- it was worth it after all. Meanwhile, I watched the school-age children dip their hands into the jar eagerly, snatching up the strongest licorice they could get and eating it like it was... well, like it was candy. I suppose that's one thing I'll never understand.