I in fact never want to leave the Loire Valley. This past weekend my program took us on a tour of this fairy tale-esque region of central France to four of its most fabulous chateaux: Blois, Azay-le-Rideau, Chenonceau, and Chambourd. We spent the weekend enjoying wine and cheese tastings, delicious fresh farm foods, and some of the most luxurious homes ever built in Europe. The sun came out for the first time in weeks and the temperature managed to barely climb above 10 Celsius, so it was certainly a weekend to be celebrated.
Despite the number of posts I have previously written reflecting on the splendorous and ornate nature of pre-Revolutionary French architecture (really anything the royal family had a hand in) I never cease to be amazed at how fabulously casual these structures are. Though some of them are now privately owned by families, they are still open to the public with gorgeous restaurants, parks, and rooms on display. However, the majority have been taken under government ownership and are just as open and accessible to the public, potentially with more signage and tricolor flags than would not have stood on the property previously. In general, these chateaux are treated as many of our national parks in the states; you can rent bikes or canoes to go around the property/moats, picnicking is encouraged, dogs are allowed in certain parts, and bathrooms are always there but tricky to find. Whereas we in the states work to preserve natural land formations and gorgeous forests, the French have simply chosen to preserve gorgeous relics of their fabulously aristocratic past. The grounds themselves are always stunning and open to the community. but there is a distinct emphasis on preserving and remembering the past in these parks.
I have spoken about American romanticization of French royal culture - and it is very easily done when visiting the castles that Walt based many of his Disney creations on - but it is refreshing to see how integrated and community-oriented many of these spaces are. Though the Loire Valley is a but more secluded, many such chateaux exist close to Paris and are perfect for day trips. With a metro pass one can train to these locations for free on the weekend and enjoy a stroll in the park/palace/extensive grounds. Given the opportunity and time I would likely attempt to do so in a Marie Antoinette style ball gown, but the greenery is refreshing and the scenery generally peaceful.
This was also one of the first weekends in month that I have spent time in real farm country. Though I do not live on anything resembling a farm in Ohio and never will, a part of me will always love the flat scenery, fields of wheat, and herds of livestock. Our hostel was in the perfect woods for a midnight game of Ghost in the Graveyard, and all of our meals were beautifully fresh and local. White wine and goat cheese were specialties of the region and they were thoroughly enjoyed, but the real highlight of the trip was getting to enjoy these beautiful natural spaces and run around in gardens that seemed to be designed by Hans Christian Anderson. We sang songs at night, raced through hedge mazes, and generally behaved like the children in a foreign playground that we were. The beauty of visiting a French chateaux is that everyone begins to idealize the space a bit. For a few peaceful hours anyone can be a French noble strolling through the gardens, feeding the chickens, yelling at the peasantry (only if they happen to be friends), and taking in the view.