By ahblackwell
As I ducked to slide under the rusted barbed wire that Ahmed held taut a few feet above the ground, my boot slipped in the mud, soft from rain, and I felt the nylon of my backpack catch on one of the reddish-brown barbs. He pulled me free, and I continued to follow my new host father over fields and brooks and several other fences until we reached our new home. Ahmed, tall and slender with tanned smiling cheeks, which peeked out from behind a bushy beard and a green wool cap, called out to Zahra and Miriam as we approached the grey concrete house that stood on a bouldery landscape surrounded by gardens and grazing animals. Zahra, our host mother, emerged from the house first, her head scarf tied up behind her ears, revealing her face and neck which were soft and brown from years of work and wear in the sun. She pulled me in to an embrace and gave me the customary kiss on each cheek to say hello. Miriam repeated the gesture and immediately made it clear that, as our eighteen-year-old host sister, we would be spending the majority of our week with her. After a brief lunch full of small-talk in Darija (the Moroccan dialect of Arabic) and some French - Ahmed, after only completing an eighth-grade education, can speak perfect French - Miriam took us on a tour of the house and its surrounding grounds. Their house - “daar,” in Darija - consists of four enclosed rooms, a kitchen, a bathroom (complete with Turkish toilet), and a courtyard area that connects each of the sections of the house. It is surrounded by a beautiful fenced-in back yard where the chickens are free to roam, several enclosed fields for the cows and sheep to graze, a fairy-tale garden, and rolling hills and babbling brooks that descend into the valley, below. The family lives on the outskirts of Ait-Ouahi, a rural Amazigh village that settled as a tribe about 30 kilometers from modern-day Oulmes, a very small town in the Middle Atlas Mountains. Julia, Alex, and I lived with the family for the week and enjoyed their home and hospitality while we experienced village life in Morocco with our classmates. ...continue reading "The Tribe in the Valley"