By crstein1
One of the most interesting parts of living in Spain is that I’ve had the chance to understand some of the Spanish traditions. Of course, I was aware that Spain was famous for bullfights, but it wasn’t something I ever gave much thought to. From an American perspective, bullfights are cruel and futile. My recent trip to Pamplona, the capital city of Navarre, in Northern Spain, allowed me to view the traditions surrounding bulls from a new perspective. Pamplona is famous throughout the world for the historic and sometimes controversial San Fermín festival, which occurs every year from July 6th-14th. Part of the fame of this festival is due to its presence in Ernest Hemingway’s novel, The Sun Also Rises. San Fermín was the first bishop of Pamplona and spent much of his life spreading the gospel. He was beheaded in a preaching voyage and is considered a saint and a martyr of the Catholic Church. The festival of San Fermín exists as a way to honor the saint and has been a large celebration in Pamplona since medieval times. Although there is a religious component, and there is also fireworks, parades, dancing and music, the most epic and central part of the festival is the running of the bulls.
Each morning at 8am between July 7th and 14th, a rocket is fired signaling the release of the bulls. The tradition began out of practical needs- runners needed to guide the bulls from their holding place to the stadium where the fights take place. Those who choose to run, all fueled by massive amounts of adrenalin and perhaps alcohol, say a prayer to the saint and then run next to the stampede through the narrow streets of the city. The distance is relatively short, and the run only lasts several minutes, with each person only running for a few seconds. Those who prefer not to run stand nearby to observe the antics. Everyone wears all white with red handkerchiefs around their neck to represent the saint and the blood that resulted from his execution. The running of the bulls is dangerous, and there have been many injuries and even deaths.
I couldn’t understand why this festival still exists, or why the runners aren't limited to trained professionals. Surely in modern times the people and government of Pamplona would be able to realize how dangerous and unnecessary this outdated tradition is. Yet the festival still thrives, and every year thousands and thousands of people (Spaniards as well as foreigners) flock to Pamplona to participate or observe the festivities.
Our tour guide recounted the first time he ran with the bulls. He was about 13 years old. He approached his mother in the morning before he left.
‘Where are you going?’, she asked with tears in her eyes and a pit in her stomach.
‘Umm, I’m going out to get breakfast, mom,’ he replied in the high pitched voice that is characteristic of all guilty consciences.
‘No, you shouldn’t go, just eat here.’
‘No, momma, I’m sorry. I love you and I’ll see you later.'
He explained that he was anxious and nervous, but already by that young age the culture was ingrained in him, and the passion was so strong. His mother understood this, too, and even though she was scared for her son, she allowed him to run with the bulls anyway. The story of the festival of San Fermín is one of the most interesting and fascinating tales I have ever heard, and it has given me a new understanding and appreciation of Spanish culture.
The people of Pamplona see the event as an expression of passion and as a ceremonial appreciation of the glory of life and death. It’s a way to be brave and courageous and one of the most culturally important events in the country. Apparently, since the first day of the running of the bulls is on July 7th, which is the 7th day of the 7th month of the year, there are celebrations on the 1st day of the January (the 1st month), the 2nd day of February (the second month), the 3rd day of March (etc.), in preparation and excitement of the San Fermín festival. The people look forward to the festival all year and it is one of the most important and glorious parts of their lives. After the bulls run to the stadium they face an imminent death in the fight. The Spanish people view their relationship with bulls as beautiful. The fights symbolize the contradictions between life and death, man and the beast, and glory and sacrifice. From these contradictions comes a beautiful harmony. Survival becomes an elegant affair, and with this, the culture is born. I still don't support or condone the treatment of the bulls, but at least now I understand it.