GW Blog Abroad – Page 2 – GW Blogs from Abroad

Rocking the Daisies!

AdminOctober 12, 2014December 14, 2018

This past week was another memorable one, with the highlight being my weekend at Rocking the Daisies. As the largest music festival in the Western Cape, and Rocking the Daisies is an event many students in the area eagerly await for every year. Located on a large wine estate in Darling (about an hour north of Cape Town), the venue is absolutely beautiful and attracts crowds from all over South Africa. Between the seven stages and three days I was there, I was able to listen to countless South African artists as well as a few internationally famous bands such as Crystal Fighters and MGMT. Listening to great music out in the hot sun was definitely a great way to start my last month as a student at Stellenbosch. Although several thousand people attended the festival, I felt very much at home as I ran into familiar faces and friends from Stellenbosch every few minutes.

In this week's blog post I want to focus specifically on an issue that I have been meaning to cover for weeks now - violence and crime in South Africa. South Africa is consistently ranked as one of the most violent societies in the world, and this culture can be clearly seen in everyday life here. Anywhere you go, buildings are surrounded by tall electric fences and security precautions can be seen everywhere. Here in Stellenbosch, stories of muggings and robberies are very common. Earlier in the year, there was an attempted kidnapping of a student, which has since prompted the university to bulk up its security and create a Green Route that is heavily patrolled by security officers. When I first arrived here, the general recommendation was to never walk alone during when it is dark outside, and to avoid carrying or displaying valuables in plain sight. Public transportation specifically is often seen as a very dangerous space and most white South Africans will either have never taken the trains here, or will highly recommend finding alternatives. Thus far, I have become quite comfortable here and have thankfully had no incidents. However, for most South Africans - violence and crime is inevitable.

To elaborate on that, I've come across many stories and first-hand experiences that can help paint a picture of what crime is like here. When I first arrived, one of my South African friends told me about a time where she was robbed at gunpoint directly outside of her house in Cape Town. Robbery at gunpoint is quite common here, but I can't imagine what it would be like if that occurred right outside my house. About a month and a half ago, this same friend was a few blocks away from the center of campus when a man assaulted her and tried to rape her. Fortunately, she was able to force her way out of the situation and run to safety. The fact that something like this could happen so close to campus makes one acutely aware of how bad the situation here is. One exchange student friend who lives off-campus in a student accommodation with high electric fences has told me that people have broken into her complex multiple times since she moved there in July. Another group of exchange students were held up with knives during a hike just outside of the town and were robbed. The incidences continue to grow, but it seems that this kind of pervasive crime will take generations to push out. From my conversations with students here, it seems like the situation has gotten worse in the previous several months. I truly hope the trend reverses, as South Africa and more specifically Stellenbosch continue to be held back because of this "culture" of crime that keeps people paranoid, separated, and in the end suspicious of their fellow South Africans.

To the North: Lille, France

AdminOctober 11, 2014

This weekend was the first of several that I'm anticipating this semester. Although I could have traveled to another country (which is absolutely mind boggling, still), I was very fortunate to be able to visit my friend, who lives in Lille (in the north of France). I can't wait to tell you about it!

Upon arrival, I explored downtown by myself for a bit. At the heart of the city is Le Grand Place, a huge, bustling square with restaurants, hotels, and shops lining its edges. There, you'll find the Opera, the Vieille Bourse (or the Old Stock Exchange), and the city's bell tower. Just a few minutes' walking will take you to their cathedral, which is called Notre Dame de la Treille, or to their arm museum, Le Palais des Beaux Arts. I also fell in love with a bookstore there called Le Furet du Nord - basically eight floors of any book you'll ever need!

After exploring, I met up with my friend for lunch at a place near her campus. She studies at Lille 2, a university specifically for law. I also got to attend one of her law classes, which was basically two hours of the professor lecturing at 300 students... with zero interaction from the class. This teaching style is typical of French university classes, and I'm very glad that I don't have to deal with it at GW!

To get around Lille, we either walked or used the metro system. In contrast with the Parisian metro (or even the one in DC), this one only had two lines! Furthermore, each metro only had two cars for passengers. Despite being France's 5th largest city, this kind of illustrates how small the city actually is by American standards (of a large city, that is). There are a large number of students who live there, and my friend described it as the best French city for students. In fact, the university I'm at in Paris - SciencesPo - has a campus in Lille, as well.

Overall, Lille was a wonderful break from the fast city life in Paris. Tomorrow it's back to classes though, so we'll see where this next week goes!

The Differences Between the UK and DC

AdminOctober 11, 2014December 14, 2018

By Jess Yacovelle

I've been living in the UK for about a month now, and some stark differences between my host country and the US have started to pop out at me. Here are 5 major differences between living in the United States and living in London.

1) There are no trashcans anywhere. I was in King's Cross train station earlier this week, carrying around an empty coffee cup for over an hour because I couldn't find a trashcan. And the surprising thing is that the London streets and businesses are all incredibly clean. Unlike in the US, there's hardly any trash on the floor, and there's certainly no gum glued to the cement. But how on earth do they keep the city streets so clean without any trashcans?

2) It rains a lot. Everyone knew this already; it's one of England's stereotypes. What you didn't know is that though it may rain 4 out of 5 days a week in London, it will only rain for an hour or two at a time. I've been here for over a month now, and I still haven't experienced a long rainstorm like we get in DC. The endless days of rain just don't happen.

3) The London subway system rules. Sorry DC, but your metro has nothing on London's public transit. Most working people in London take the subway - or the "tube" - to commute every morning to their jobs, so the underground system in London has to run quickly and efficiently. Trains arrive every couple of minutes, so it's never the end of the world if you miss one. Even better, your underground ticket or pass will also work in the London bus system. You can literally get anywhere in London via their public transit.

4) People generally keep to themselves. It's very rare in London to see strangers start talking to each other on the subway or while in line. Unlike in DC (and within the US in general), people don't feel obligated to make small talk with strangers. That's not to say that Londoners aren't friendly, though; far from it. If you're lost and you ask for help, people will kindly give directions - they just won't chat with you about the weather.

5) Travel is really, really easy. There are trains, buses, and planes leaving from London and going to literally anywhere in Europe multiple times a day. You can take a bus to Cardiff, a train to Edinburgh, and then a plane to Paris all in the same weekend if you so desire. The opportunities to travel are so vast that it almost feels like a waste not to go.

Vale, Vale, Vale

AdminOctober 10, 2014December 14, 2018

By makenadingwell

It's official - one month in Madrid already gone by. In true Spanish fashion, I spent the morning on a bus on the way back from Bilbao to get back in time for a bullfight in Madrid. I read bits of a spare Spanish newspaper and constructed a brief list of do’s and don’ts in Madrid.

Say “que chulo” & “vale” – “Chulo” can mean many things, but mainly cool, good-looking, or cocky/arrogant. My host mother told me that pure Madrileños are definitely chulo. “Vale” is basically “okay” and is a response to anything anybody ever says to you ever.

Live on the street – Not in a homeless way. Anytime in the afternoon or evening, every Spanish city is filled with people watchers sitting in plazas or bursting out of tapas bars. Usually with a glass of wine, a beer, or a good-looking partner, everyone lives on the street.

Give directions in apples – I made a rookie move one afternoon in an attempt to sound like a local. I was on a walk and an older, hurried man stopped me on street to ask for directions. I told him to continue “tres cuadros,” or three blocks, which would have been fine if I were back in Colombia. However, here in Madrid, blocks are “manzanas” or apples.

Applaud for forever – So far our program has been to two ballet performances and one comedy show. After each show concluded and the performers came back on stage to bow while the audience clapped ferociously. Arm in arm, they walked backward and then forward again to bow. However it never stopped after the third or even forth time. It went on for ten minutes, until our hands were red and tired and we had to sit back down.

Have an opinion about Cataluña – Last weekend, our program had an excursion to Barcelona. Whenever we mentioned our plans to anyone, professor or peer, there was a response, positive or negative.

Do Not

Go into a restaurant hungry at 7 or 8 pm – Don’t expect to eat dinner before 9 or 10 anywhere unless you prefer eating in empty restaurants. Everyone is too busy living on the street with their glasses of wine to be seen eating during daylight.

Dress casually for a bullfight – Everyone looks like they were going to a country club or date night. Long-sleeve collar shirts, structured dresses and cardigans surrounded us in the arena. Although we were high up and in the heat of the afternoon sun, the “corrida de toros” was unexpectedly a fashion event.

Expect the check to arrive – Eating a meal is a social event and entails substantial conversation during and especially after. There is no “quick bite to eat” mentality and no rush for a check.

Keep one hand in your lap while eating – Elbows or wrists on the table. Always.

Watch a football game in silence – Watching football requires passion and it should be clear if your team is winning or losing.

Making a Home out of a Foreign City

AdminOctober 9, 2014December 14, 2018

By Hannah Radner

London is the largest city I have ever experienced, both area- and population-wise. Exponentially bigger than both Boston and DC, it is a daunting task to make it my own. Based off some of the things I have done (or have resolved to do) since I got here a week and a half ago, I compiled a short list of things I can do to make a big city feel a little bit smaller and a lot more familiar.

1. Take public transportation. In my last post, I discussed the joy of walking. There is also joy in not walking, especially when nearly every place to which you need or want to go in London is rather far. I have taken the Tube (Subway, Metro, T, whatever you call it) a few times, but even more joyful is the bus. Buses in London go everywhere. The perks of taking the bus include a low price and sights of the city you would not otherwise get taking the Tube. In addition, all the buses are double decker; that is not a myth, that is real, and it is great. To ride the bus, you need an Oyster Card. To ride the Tube you really really want an Oyster card, as a one-way trip is around £4.70. I have abandoned all thoughts of the exchange rate, so you can do that math on your own. It is not fun, but the Oyster Card makes it bearable. The Tube is arguably the fastest form of transport, for it does not encounter traffic like the bus will. New York may be gridlocked, but at least it is a grid; in the wise words of my tenth grade history teacher, London (like Boston) looks like "spaghetti threw up on your window" when seen from above.

2. Do familiar things! Being in a new city is weird. I have attempted to make it less weird by doing fun things that I would do at school in DC. London is a great city for music lovers, as I am. I love small concerts by small bands in small places whether or not I've heard of them. Luckily for me, one of my favorite bands from the states has just done a two-night stint at a hole in the wall near Hyde Park, so of course I was there for it. I look forward to exploring different venues on weekends and finding new things to listen to. In addition to music, London's theatre scene is unparalleled. I live in the theatre district, not far from the Phoenix Theatre where I saw my first (and only, so far) West End show over four years ago, across the street from where Memphis is playing and down the block from War Horse, Matilda, and Miss Saigon. I love going to shows, so hopefully I will be able to avail myself of the West End's offerings very soon.

3. Do unfamiliar things! I have one shot at this "study abroad" thing, so I may as well make the best of it. I am not an athletic person. I have no endurance. I have a low pain threshold. I am often shy with new people. So, naturally, I am joining LSE's Girls Rugby team. It is not something I was expecting to do, but this is a great year to try new things, push the envelope, and go out of my comfort zone, and I am accomplishing all three by joining a sports team. I look forward to this new experience.

4. Find a favorite place to eat. I have not done this yet. I will probably not be able to answer that "where is your favorite place to eat?" question for quite some time. At this moment, I love the 'My Old Dutch Pancake House' across the street from my dorm. For anyone who has never had a dutch pancake, they are really just very large pancakes. This place makes them like crepes, both sweet and savory, and they are about 20 inches in diameter. Think Crepeaway on steroids, but also with whipped cream or ice cream on top, but also waffles and poffertjes. It really makes one wonder, in true Leslie Knope fashion, why would anyone eat anything besides breakfast food??

Weekend-Get-Away

AdminOctober 8, 2014December 14, 2018

By bevvy2212

Since my roommate left me for the weekend to go travel with her mom, I was feeling quite lonely all by myself in Paris. Hard to imagine, right? Paris is great and everything, but sometimes it gets a little bit routine-ish. I think I’ve gotten quite lazy recently as the hype of being in Paris finally dissipated. Sure, it’s cool to visit Musée D’Orsay or the Louvre on a casual afternoon but they get old eventually. So on Friday night, I was on the phone with a friend and he suggested that we should go to Le Havre at 8am the next morning. It sounded crazy to me at the time, and super exciting.

So we took the train from Paris Saint-Lazzare station to Le Havre. Round trip was around 34 euros with my carte de jeune. It’s funny because the trains don’t have a physical barrier that bar passengers from entering the platform unless they have the tickets so it seemed totally possible for someone to just sneak on the train and not buy the ticket. As I was commenting about this loophole in the transportation system (because the previous times I have taken trains, no one checked my ticket), the conductor came around to do the ticket inspection. The guy sitting behind us actually didn’t have his ticket and he was fined.

It took approximately three hours to go from Paris to Le Havre. Le Havre used to be one of the biggest sea ports in France before tradings increased in the Mediterranean and Marseilles over took Le Havre’s importance.

After living in Paris for a while, Le Havre was a nice change because it was such a quiet, cute, little town. Sciences Po actually has a regional campus in Le Havre. I wondered if I made the right choice of going to the Paris campus as I was sitting on the beach, watching the sun set, because it was just so peaceful and the people there were so nice and genuine. But I think, at least for me, who grew up in the city, I’d be really bored in Le Havre if I’m actually studying here so, I guess we can’t always get what we wanted.

Most tourists come to Le Havre to visit étretat. They are a set of cliffs that are shaped like elephant trunks because of wind and sea erosions. Because we got to Le Havre around 12pm, we missed the bus that goes from Le Havre to Etretat at 10 in the morning. Make sure to check the bus schedule because buses to Etretat are rare during off-seasons (after summer). So we decided to go to Etretat on Sunday morning and go to Honfleur, a really small town nearby, instead.

To be honest Honfleur is the cutest French town I’ve seen by far. It felt like a typical European town with its old buildings and hanging flowers from the balcony. Honfleur used to be a sea port as well and it has the largest wooden church in France as well. It was my first time being inside a wooden church and I liked it a lot more than the usual stone churches because it was very quaint and also quite warm inside. (stone churches are usually colder because of the texture)

Another thing about Le Havre is that it’s in the Normandie Region and it’s known to be really rainy out there. Make sure to bring your umbrella and footgear that’s somewhat water proof because the rain and the cold does not make a good combination for traveling. We were lucky enough that Sunday was a sunny day, the only sunny day in fact, for the following week. I highly recommend going to Etretat because you can hike up the cliff and have an incredible view of the area, kinda like the Scottish highlands actually. After being cooped up in the city scene for a while, the cliffs, the sea shores, and the horizon were very liberating.

Also, AMAZING sea food! Especially the oysters (“huitres” in french) and whelks (“boulots”)!

Third Time’s the Charm

AdminAugust 11, 2014December 14, 2018

By bevvy2212

You know how there are places that you don’t expect yourself to re-visit in the near future? Well, Paris is the exception. I first visited Paris when I was 15, too young to really appreciate its beauty, now looking back. I was like any eager tourist, snapping selfies with the Eiffel tower. (Were selfies even a thing back then?) My second visit to Paris was during my junior year of high school. I did not expect my return to Paris to be so soon but I wasn’t complaining. It gave me a really odd feeling of “coming home”, like when I was visiting Versailles with my friends, I knew the rooms and the stories to them. But still, it didn’t feel like I got the gist of Paris.

Part of the reason why I love traveling so much is because cities are like people too. I have to spend quality time wandering around their meandering streets in order to form deeper bonds with them. The touristy places, feel almost insincere at times. Here is a brief digression. I have just returned from a six-week-volunteering program from Peru. One of the main reasons why I wanted to go in the first place was because of Machu Picchu. I mean, who cares about educating the future generation of a country that has a 35% poverty rate? (Jokes, for those who couldn’t tell.) I was stationed in Trujillo, the third largest city in Peru, totally Peruvian. It was nothing like Lima or Machu Picchu where foreigners swarmed the streets and almost gave me the illusion that I was still in America, except the bathrooms were without toilet paper (A phenomenon that’s pretty much everywhere except in the US). In Trujillo, I taught English to kids from kindergarten up to sixth grade and they had touched my heart in a way that I never expected it to be touched. It was a very sad day for me to leave, and Peru forever holds a special place in my heart.

That’s the kind of relationship I want to form with a country, let people into my life and leave my tracks behind as well. I don’t expect my 6-week-English-lessons to change my kids’ lives, but to know that I have made impact on their lives is one of the greatest feelings I have ever experienced. So I hope that by spending a semester in Paris, I’d be able to get to know it personally. Who knows, the future is bright, maybe third time’s the charm!

Side note: for future references, those who wish to apply for a French visa should try to get it done in the United States. I did mine in China and it was the most painful experience ever. I couldn’t even get on the CampusFrance website without a proper proxy. (Thanks communism.)

First Week at Stellenbosch

AdminAugust 11, 2014December 14, 2018

By rbhargava

Hello friends and welcome to the first edition of many blog posts to come on my adventures and experiences at Stellenbosch University. Although I'm no expert on the region, I want to start off this post with a little background on the region and the university. Stellenbosch is in the heart of South Africa's Cape Winelands, and is 30 miles away from Cape Town. Today, its wine may make it famous, but the university keeps this city alive. With about 30,000 students, the university is ranked second in South Africa after the University of Cape Town, and is a major academic center in the country. As such, the city attracts some of the smartest minds in the country and is an important part of the Western Cape's economy. What I really want to highlight is the university's history. As the top Afrikaan university, Stellenbosch is unfortunately also known as the birthplace of apartheid. With that said, the university and city today ironically face many of the repercussions of the policies it helped create. The city is one of the most unequal places on Earth, with deeply segregated communities ranging from the wealthy whites on one side of town, coloreds on the other, and blacks in a far off corner. A foreigner would never see these differences, as Stellenbosch does well to hide these systemic problems behind the facades of beautiful Cape Dutch architecture and the majestic mountains that make Stellenbosch the beautiful valley town that it is. It is important to keep all of this in mind, as 20 years after apartheid - Stellenbosch is both the perfect example of the rainbow nation, and the perfect example of everything that has held South Africa back.

With the scene set and on a lighter note, let me talk more about my first week here in South Africa! As part of the CIEE study abroad program I am on (called Sustainability and Community), I spent my first week at the Sustainability Institute in a small town outside Stellenbosch called Lynedoch. Set in the midst of some of the country's best wineries, I had the chance to get my first exposure of South Africa from a sustainable development perspective - learning about issues of food security from a local farmer, hearing about one winery's efforts to become greener from a former VP, and talking to researchers about efforts being taken to improve the living standards and environment of the informal settlement in Stellenbosch called Enkanini. Hearing from these individuals and many more gave me a great overview of what Stellenbosch is all about.

Skipping ahead, after a fantastic praxis week at the Sustainability Institute, I went on a tour of the peninsula with my program (there's only two of us on the program) on Saturday. Having only been at and near Stellenbosch since arriving, I had yet to see the Cape Town. Driving there, we passed an endless line of informal settlements that was a strong reminder of the stark divisions that have come to define the country today. Cape Town of course was as beautiful as any city I've seen, and we had the chance to drive up Signal Hill, a beautiful vantage point from which most of Cape Town can be seen. Driving down the peninsula, we were able to stop at Boulders Beach in Simonstown, where hundreds of penguins were waddling around on the beach...a sight like no other! We also stopped at the Cape of Good Hope and Cape Point at the very end of the peninsula - the southwestern most part of Africa. Reflecting back on this day trip around the peninsula, the Cape Town area is full of absolutely beautiful places and is blessed with some of the most diverse wildlife on the planet, but the abundant inequalities among whites, coloreds, and blacks make it difficult to call Cape Town a great city.