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My different communities abroad have made me think critically about my identity in many ways. Per my first post, where I elaborated on the complexities of blackness around the world, it has been interesting having now been in Dakar for over two months and seeing where I fit in. I am one of the few students of color in my program that is composed of university students from around the US. This has been an interesting adjustment to make because my social circle back at GW is mainly black students and other people of color. On top of that, this is my first time traveling and living anywhere in Africa with a group of other Americans. At my study center, one of my greatest sources of community here, there is also a law school that is composed solely of Senegalese students. There is no forced separation between the two schools, and we are encouraged to talk to the law students and make friendships, etc. However, there is a natural separation that comes with taking different classes on different floors of the building, and the language barrier that still persists with French and Wolof. This dynamic - especially compared to my friend groups at GW - has caused me to reflect on what it means for me to be an American abroad because at least in this instance I am definitely seen as a part of a larger group, and that is something that I have never had to do so vividly. Furthermore, what it means to be one of a few students of color in a large group of Americans.

The running route that I have in Dakar was another community that I referenced in my last post. I think that more than anything, this has supported and strengthened my notion that I am independent, but it has also reassured me that there are parallels between people when we least expect them. Running has solidified my sense of independence because I made myself familiar with my running paths without any guide. That is not to say that the paths are challenging, and that people have not run them before, but in a new city with a completely different climate I was proud to do this alone. The feeling of independence is also matched with a feeling of comfort because of all the other people that I pass whenever I am on a run. A simple head nod, smile, or thumbs up from a fellow runner is enough to remind me that being in charge/control of what I am doing does not  mean that I have to be completely isolated. I am running alongside people from completely different backgrounds, and with a wide range (young to old men and women, some running in flip flops and some in tracksuits), and this has reminded me that even in the midst of minor identity confusion I can still feel a part of something.

 

By teniolab

While living in the Southern Africa region, I have been able to encounter and learn about the lifestyles of people from South Africa, Mozambique, Namibia, and Zimbabwe. I have begun to understand the territory that comes with living in a developing country.

One recurring struggle that I have encountered is the issue of with water insecurity. Botswana is a land-locked country. Water is imported from dams in South Africa. Also, rainwater is collected in dams situated in cities all over the country. Having running water available across campus and in the dorms was expected just as you would expect the sun to be shinning every day. Then when I least expected, the spout in the 3rd-floor bathroom of UB's Main lecture hall ran dry. Just like that, you start to become more conscious about how much one relies on running water to complete tasks.

For Batswana, the inconsistencies in water is not a major issue. Most families in their homes store water in empty soda bottles or in giant storage containers. If you are able to afford it, some people will have the ever-so sustainable rainwater collection tanks on their properties. My first reaction to the lack of water shock, but then I became overwhelmed with a calming sense shortly after. I understood that the water issue was something I was eventually going to have to face (shout-out to the CIEE student blog posts for preparing me). More or less, I wished I knew to what extent would a region-wide water shortage affect me on campus. A notice was delivered by my program director. My roommate told me the day before that the water tanks on campus would be turned on for these purposes. With the help of my type-B personally and two 5 liter bottles of water purchased from the nearest Spar, I was able to make it through my first week-long water shortage. I had assumed that the Gaborone dam water levels must be low. But it turned out that a water pipe had broke, so all water was "shut off" in the Greater Gaborone area and surrounding parts. Most of the campus had running water. There were just a few campus buildings here and there that did not.

...continue reading "Metsi! Agua! Water!"

By Teniola Balogun

I love hearing about all of Batswana’s perceptions of Americans. Some are pretty accurate and while others are so far-fetched. Most of the perceptions come from television and from the media. During our program orientation, our program volunteers mostly referenced shows like the Real Housewives franchise, and “Keeping Up With the Kardashians” to come up with the ideas about the American “culture”. Also, some of the Batswana perceptions of America came from interactions with previous international students.

The biggest shock I have received while in Botswana is the perceptions that Batswana thought ALL Americans embody. When , the perceptions that they had only characterized small pockets of the vast country of USA. “Do you all walk around wearing crop tops and thongs to walk your dogs?” My jaw literally dropped when my friend asked me this question. She wholeheartedly believed that this was something that all Americans did. I quickly explained to her that this is probably something you would see in an American Hip-Hop music video. While music plays a huge role in, I guess the American culture, they do not accurately depict our dressing style. My friend said she believed we all dressed like this because it is shown in music videos and at public events like Coachella.

A different friend of mine asked, “Is America really as bad as it is portrayed in the media? I want to go but it seems very scary.” She is not wrong. It is quite scary right now to live in America. Yes, the terrible events do happen. And the media does tend to fixate on them, so much to the point that it can be overwhelming to watch the news any longer. But the media should not stop her from coming to experience the country for herself. I explained to her that the media often blows things out of proportion and controls the information it feeds to the public.

...continue reading "“Americans are allowed to say, ‘Shut Up’ to Their Parents”"

By teniolab

March 4-11th. The week that everyone was dreading/looking forward to. March 4-11th was the week that the Community Public Health students would get the chance to observe rural medical practices in a nearby village named Kanye (which is in fact, West of Gaborone).

I spoke with some local students in my classes, and they would laugh at the fact that I called "Kanye" a village.  Little did I know, there is a KFC, Nando's, Chicken Licken, and many more mainstream shops in Kanye. Even though the program had deemed Kanye as a "village", others would call it semi-urban.

I was excited about the homestay aspect of the village trip. I was on the fence about doing either a dorm or a homestay for my semester abroad. The Kanye homestay allowed me to experience the best of both worlds given that I had chosen to live in the dorms. I really enjoyed my experience and my Kanye family. They were so welcoming and ready to share their lives with me. My homestay experience and life as a Kanye local would not have been the same without them.

...continue reading "Dorm Student Takes on the Homestay Life"

By Teniola Balogun

There are so many things to do in Gaborone. Whether you are in art buff or a foodie, there is differently something for you in Gabs! While I do try my best to not be super touristy, hitting all the sights is just something you have to do. When I first became acquainted with the city, I made sure to throw in a few local spots here and there.

Here is the Teni-approved guide of local yet touristy things to do in Gabs:

  1. No. 1 Ladies Coffee House's Naked Soul Sessions
    • If you are a fan of the No. 1 Ladies Detective Agency mystery book series, you have to come here. It is a coffee shop based off of/dedicated to the mystery book series based in Gabs. The vibe is calming and relaxing. You are guaranteed to have a great time here. The people and the atmosphere really draw you in. Every first Thursday of the month, they have live music/spoken word called "Naked Soul Sessions". It is so great to hear Batswana showcase their talent and talk about their experience with artistic expression.
  2. Go on a game drive
    • One can never get over the thrill of spotting a giraffe or rhino in the distance. Game drives are my absolute favorite. There are a lot of reserves in Botswana. The animals you see will differ amongst all the Botswana game drives. My two favorites have to be the game drives taken in Nata and Mokolodi. Spoiler: you might see some elephants!!
  3. Visit I-Tower
    • I-Tower is located in the central business district. Here we can find great frozen yogurt shops, a movie theatre, Italian restaurant and many more. Best of all, if you climb to the top of I-Tower, you can get the best view of the city. I was able to venture up there one night and see the lights light of the sky. Hopefully, before I leave, I will be able to catch the wonderful Botswana sunsets from the great vantage point. 
  4. Hawkers 
    • Hawkers are the vendors who sell food right along the streets. I usually buy from the hawkers right across from the UB campus. When I'm not feeling the on-campus food, I would usually go to the hawkers for dinner. For 10 pula ($1), I can get a whole meal that will leave me full for what feels like forever. Most hawkers will often all sell the same things like beans, beets, drinks, hotdogs, and braii meat. You gotta pick a special vendor and stick with her for the entire semester. She will probably keep track of the times that you come and make sure the food you get is hot and delicious!
  5. Braii
    • Braii (or BBQs) are quintessential to the Botswana lifestyle. They are usually potluck style where the host provides and BBQs the meat and the guests will bring a dish. They are always very entertaining. My program has had two braiis so far. We great getting the chance to bond more with some of the homestay families as well as the volunteers in a more informal setting.

 

By teniolab

I am so thankful that we are required to take the Setswana language course as a CIEE Community Public Health student. As a CIEE Arts and Science student, you are given the option to take the course. I cannot imagine why you would choose not to take the course because I having the best time learning the language.

The official language of Botswana is English. English is mainly spoken in Gaborone, where I am studying. Setswana is also spoken by the majority of the country. Every Motswana that I come across has said, "Setswana is so easy. You will be fluent by the time you leave!". I usually follow their statement with a laugh. Setswana is not too difficult to learn, thankfully due to my fabulous teacher Mma Phono. From learning the "Survival Setswana" on the first day of orientation to learning the different forms of greetings (very important in Botswana culture), we have come so far. Mma Phono's teaching style is unique in itself. She pretty much acts out a dialogue with specific body language and we just play a guessing game. The students and I continuously impress the locals we come across, given that we have only been here for five weeks. Unfortunately, the expectations are higher for me because everyone here assumes that I am a Motswana. People insist on speaking Setswana to me, even though I tell them I do not. They literally won't stop. It's just something you get used to though.

I have a couple of favorite phrases. One is specifically related to the struggle I knew I would face with people assuming that I was a Motswana. "Ga ke bua Setswana." If you haven't guessed it yet, the phrase means: "I do not speak Setswana". I throw that phrase around about a handful of times a day. 🙂

...continue reading "I Setswana Learn the Language"

By teniolab

On the "Rollercoaster of Study Abroad" schematic, I definitely think I am in that "initial adjustment" phase. More or less I have found myself to be comfortable in my surroundings and have figured out what works and does not work for me to be successful during my time abroad. While in this stage, I have found myself retrospectively criticizing my packing situation. I constantly think that if I had known "this", I would have brought "that". I tried my hardest to not overpack. After many attempts at packing and repacking, I somehow packed the items that I "wanted" as opposed to packing the items that I "needed". But when it comes to being away from home for four-plus months, it is important to pack smart but also pack the items that make you feel the most like yourself.

It is challenging to now realize that I didn't pack certain (sentimental) items for the sake of saving room in my suitcase. So here it is, a list of items I wish I had packed:

...continue reading "5 Things I Wish I Had Packed"

By teniolab

Hello everyone!

Tomorrow officially marks the start of my fourth week in Gaborone. Now, I can thankfully say I have tried almost every form of public transportation. Gaborone is the capital of Botswana, and a fast-growing city at that.

Living in the University of Botswana Dorms has given me the unique experience of navigating around the city with ease. While in the first few weeks, trips to the grocery store and to dinner were taken with the lovely help of the CIEE driver. Bethel, who has worked with CIEE for seven years, pulls up to the UB dorms donned with the biggest grin ready to share his Gaborone with us. And just like that, a person would pay 30 pula in total, roughly 3 US dollars, for a "special" taxi.

A “special” taxi is taken alone or split among friends. While this is still cheap, taxi drivers will try to trick you into taking a special when you don’t need one! If you are not in a rush or simply do not want to pay a lot for transportation, you can take a regular taxi. The "non-special" taxi will cost 4.10 pula, about 41 US cents. Often times, the driver will either pick up passengers along the way or wait at your pick-up location until passengers fill up the car.

...continue reading "Navigating through the City"

By teniolab

Hello!

I am just arriving back to campus after spending the weekend in Bahurutshe Cultural Village. The village is located in Mmankgodi which is about 22 miles from Gaborone. It is deemed a “cultural village” in that it is a village that tourists can go to participate in and experience the culture of the Bahurutse tribe. From the food to the dancing, two moments stood out to me the most.

 

1. Foreigner Acceptance Ceremony

Traditionally, when a foreigner arrives at a village, they must be accepted to stay by the chief and by the ancestors. The "ancestors" adorn animal skin on their bodies, paint on their faces and shells around their legs. They perform traditional dances that involve quick footwork. It was always a shocker to see the dancers throw in a backflip here and a back-tuck there. Accompanied by their impressive dance skills were their wonderful harmonies.

...continue reading "Bahurutshe Cultural Village: Unforgettable Moments"

I believe that the most important thing for anyone in this world is knowing who you are. When it comes down to it, the anxieties and realities of life are often easier to handle when someone is confident within. That being said, because a sense of self is such a valuable thing to hold, it tends to be really hard to find. Throughout my life my background has been a source of contrasted emotions. Isolation coupled with belonging, confusion mixed with understanding and embarrassment matched with pride. I think that the majority of this is a result of having parents from two completely different places; my dad is black from Namibia, and my mom is white from America. It was not until recently, say the last couple of years, that I realized that this conflict of emotions is one that will last forever, and that knowing who I am is accepting this ongoing internal battle.

I am black. I know that there are many layers to identity, and that having a mixed race background does not cancel out the fact that I am black. However, I also know that black is perceived and defined differently around the world as a result of different experiences and encounters with other races throughout history. Living in America, where sometimes even just one black grandparent can categorize someone as black, it is interesting to observe and compare this complexity of blackness when I am abroad. In Senegal, for instance, I am much closer to being white (I have been called white already), and I am often referred to as a ‘toubab’ which is basically a name to describe white or wealthy foreigners. It is also different having travelled in South Africa and Namibia where the term “coloured” historically differentiated people who appear like they could be mixed race from black people, but who would still be considered black in America.

Although I have only been in Dakar for a little over two weeks, my sense of self has already been greatly impacted. Something that I am still coming to terms with is how visible I am, which comes from looking obviously different from the majority of the population. While my hyper visibility is sometimes really uncomfortable, I am going to make the effort to use it as a mediator; to embrace puzzled glances or long stares, and to answer questions about where I am from, confidently. I am being challenged everyday (or every time I step outside) to confront the fact that other perceptions of who or ”what” I am are not defining. My name, which is Namibian (and clearly not American), leads to further questions about my identity, giving me the opportunity to elaborate on my background to people in a new place who are genuinely curious. The constant explaining that my mom is American, and dad is Namibian has brought me a newfound assuredness in who I am because it solidifies that that will never change, no matter where I am.