By allisonray94
I think Amman is one of the most beautiful cities in the world. I know, the end of the semester is making me really sentimental. But I feel a sense of awe here that I didn’t in Germany or Switzerland or the US. Jordan is special.
“Can you back that up with some reliable evidence, Allison?” No, not really. I mean, Amman is dirty — trash piles up in every empty lot, sidewalks are dusted in sand, cafes are a fog of cigarette and argileh smoke. Maybe it’s the hills. Take a taxi anywhere in this city and you’ll find yourself looking down on valleys and hills of city, or at buildings perched ledges and ledges above. It’s best at night, when all you see are rolling waves of lights.
This past week, we went to Marj Al-Hamam with Nadi Istikshaf (Adventure Club! A program-led activity that has met all of three times this semester and yet we still inexplicably refer to it as a club). You drive to the outskirts of the city and there’s this field on the side of a cliff. You can see trees and valleys and the Dead Sea in the distance. We sat down and watched the sun set over the hills surrounding Amman, which is about the most sentimental experience I’ve ever had. We left right as it grew dark, though, because the desert gets COLD at night.
I love how Amman can offer an experience like Marj Al-Hamam and at the same time all the fun of a big city in neighborhoods like Al-Weibdeh (the arts district) and Rainbow Street (the foreigners-looking-for-a-good-time district). Last night, I (a foreigner looking for a good time) went to Rainbow Street to see a thrash metal concert. You all know my insatiable passion for thrash metal (the screams speak to me), but I was surprised by how large of a metal scene Amman has. After listening to the music for what can only be described as way too long, we ventured outside to talk and drink. Nights like these, when I get to do something new and meet new people, are some of the only times where I feel like I am more a part of Amman than a passive observer. I wish I had more time to explore the city from that vantage point, even if it meant further cultivating my interest in thrash metal.
So, these are just two areas of a very large city. Considering them to make up a complete picture of Amman is like going to Central Park and thinking, “Okay, I guess this is what New York City is like.” Still, I think the juxtaposition of the two shows how Amman is in some ways a city of contradictions. It’s a mix of nature and city, wealth and poverty, modernity and tradition, in a way that isn’t manufactured or maintained like in other cities. It’s crazy beautiful.
Stray Observations of the Week:
- Finals? What finals?
- End of the year party is next week and there’s a talent show. You know, like the end of the year parties you used to have in elementary school. Anyway, I’ve got a week to develop a talent…
- Before you ask, YES, Christmas is celebrated in Amman. There’s actually a giant tree covered in Christmas lights at the end of our street.
- You know your Arabic has improved when a foreigner gets into your cab (note: it’s normal to share taxis here) and you and the taxi driver can secretly make fun of his inability to understand what’s going on.