By allilopez
I realized that in the four months since I’ve been in Brazil I have not once mentioned soccer. If you’re a soccer fan I know what you’re thinking….that my negligence of the topic is almost criminal since it is the Brazilian national pastime. However, never fear! Today I will finally write a blog post about ‘o jogo bonito (the beautiful game).’
About two weeks ago (Saturday, October 24), CIEE finally took us to go see a soccer game. Good thing they paid because each ticket is on average R$60 (roughly $25), which may not seem like a lot when you’re thinking in dollars, but when you think that the minimum wage here in Brazil is R$800 ($200 give or take a couple dollars), then R$60 is a LOT of money.
Anyways, we went to go see our neighborhood team (Palmeiras) play Sport, a team from Recife (in the state of Pernambuco in Northeast of Brazil). Although I would have liked to have seen Palmeiras play another of the four major soccer teams from São Paulo (São Paulo, Santos or Corinthinas, preferably), CIEE told us that it was not a good idea since the intense rivalry between these four teams can sometimes get violent.
That day, the Verdão (Big Green a.k.a Palmeriras) played Sport at the Pacaembu Stadium rather than its home stadium, Allianz Parque (which is literally right next to my host parents’ apartment), because Muse was playing there. Since I have never actually seen a soccer game in person, much less one in Latin America (where the passion for the beautiful game is upped to the power of 10), I was very excited. Although our team lost 2-0 to Sport, the experience was far from disappointing. From the chocolate-filled churros to the torcida organizada (organized fan cheer squad), everything was perfect.
One thing really stood out from me from the experience: the torcida organizada, an organized group of super loyal fans. Although similar to the barra brava found in Spanish-speaking countries and the European ultras, the torcida organizada is not as prone to hooliganism. It doesn’t mean it doesn’t happen, it just means that it happens less frequently….unless for example, two rival teams from the same city are playing. Generally speaking, the torcidas organizadas sing all the time, usually the anthem of the club or songs that are known even to those that are not part of a torcida. These songs are usually played along with drum beats and other musical instruments, although most are not allowed inside the stadiums. They also make and wave enormous versions of their team’s flag, logo, or official team shirt.
Since we were sitting near the torcida organizada (separated only by a fence) I got to see their behavior up close and personal. I have to say, it was quite a colorful experience. You could really see how passionate they were by the fact that they chanted Palmeiras songs throughout the WHOLE game -only stopping during half-time- and by the vast number of curse words uttered en masse. It came to the point where I lost track of the number of words they uttered after a mere 15 minutes. It was VERY different from seeing a baseball or a basketball game in the States, nonetheless I had fun.
Até mais gente! (Until next time everyone!)