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Tag: Scotland

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By keeganblogsfromabroad

This weekend I took a break from Edinburgh and headed north into the iconic Scottish Highlands and the Isle of Skye. As beautiful as they are rugged and misty, the mountains and lochs proved well worth the lengthy bus journey.  The trip was organized by the International Student's Center at the University of Edinburgh. About 200 students in four large tour buses embarked on the journey at about 8am on Saturday morning, later staggering to avoid flooding the way points with too many excited students at once. Rain was in the forecast but this being Scotland I expected nothing less.

The one thing I did not anticipate was the mud. Very few people did. The trip packing list, which called for "proper walking shoes for walking and hiking" did not reference the mud either. Now you may be thinking "its just a little mud, I'm sure it cant be that bad," and of course Edinburgh receives enough rain to be consistently muddy as well, but it is usually just a thin layer on top of solid ground. In the mountains of the highland things are just a wee bit different. The entire ground feels like a sponge and the vegetation on top doesn't do anything to change that impression. The mud is everywhere, on the path, next to it, under the vegetation just waiting for your foot to rip though.

...continue reading "No Country for White Shoes"

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By keeganblogsfromabroad

It is hard to believe I've already been in Scotland for three weeks. Of those three this most recent one was definitely the nicest weather wise. I still had to take my jacket everywhere for risk of showers but the weather was gorgeous. 60s, sun, I almost (I stress the almost) felt like this wasn't the overcast and dreary land that I was warned about (but then again, I've got no complaints.) I live in a school flat near Bruntsfield which is a bit to the southwest of the George Square Campus where I have all of my classes.

My three quarters of a mile walk to classes runs past and through the meadows, a large park. Half, the Bruntsfield links, (which I can see from my window) offers free golf, and the other half is just open land for sports or barbecues. The walk this time of year is beautiful, some of the trees are beginning to change colors while the grass remains a beautiful verdant green. For the 11 minute hike I get to enjoy a warm sun and a stiff westerly breeze while I take in Edinburgh's impressive intermingling of new and old buildings. The trees do warn that it wont always be this pleasant though. As I walk though the center of the park I can't help but notice they all lean quite obviously and somewhat ominously away from the prevailing winds which makes me glad I've got a good jacket for when winter hits.

I've been getting to classes a consistent ten minutes early, which appears pretty standard for the University of Edinburgh. Students gather to wait around the doors for the lecture hall to empty of students from the preceding lecture and almost everyone enters at the same time. Classes are large by my standards, but, being in the honors program at GW has meant that I was lucky enough to avoid a lot of the large lectures that I would have ordinarily been subjected to.

...continue reading "Classes and Castles"

Published on

By keeganblogsfromabroad

As the United 757 I was riding on banked around a large and ominous looking cloud formation on descent into Edinburgh Airport I stared intently out my window. I hoped that at any moment my eyes would pierce the lower cloud layer and catch a glimpse of what awaited below. I had never been visited Scotland  before, or any part of the United Kingdom for that matter, and despite the vast amount of information available on the internet to help me prepare I was anxious. I felt prepared, or at least I had until the plane's wheels left the tarmac. Then I thought "wow, we're really doing this." Almost 7 hours after that moment I caught my first glimpse of Scotland off in the distance, verdant, hilly, and dotted with rays of sun. It was a huge relief. In the foreground ships lie at anchor in the ocean and as we dropped lower I spotted the iconic Fourth Rail Bridge. A few minutes later the plane made a smooth landing, slightly ahead of schedule, and my day went downhill from there.

...continue reading "Arrival in Edinburgh"

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By Hannah Radner

It is weekends like these that make me so glad I chose the program I chose and that remind me why study abroad is so special. I am lucky enough to be a part of a program, the LSE General Course, that organizes more or less weekly excursions to places around the UK and Europe. I only signed up for one, this past weekend, which was a weekend in the Scottish Highlands.

Anyone who knew me at all in high school knows that I am a little obsessed with Scotland and it carries some of my most cherished memories, as my first ever trip outside the United States was to Edinburgh. I spent ten days there with members of my high school drama company, exploring the wonders of the city during its Fringe Festival as well as performing in it. We all had the most incredible time and since then, Edinburgh and Scotland have held a very special place in my heart.

At first, it might not sound that appealing when I say we spent the majority of the weekend on a coach bus, but for this I am quite grateful. We saw so much on Saturday; the beauty of the scenery is not to be believed, especially in autumn when everything is different shades of red, orange, yellow and green. We first stopped at Stirling Castle, a place I remembered well from my last visit. I was happy to reclaim my throne in the throne room. We continued up through Loch Lomond and Trossachs National Park, and I am pretty sure we saw the Hogwarts Express because obviously there is only one steam train in the entire United Kingdom and it is definitely the Hogwarts Express. We stepped outside for two minutes at a scenic overlook in Glen Coe; it would have been longer but it was raining fairly heavily and to say the wind was gusty would be an extreme understatement. We then went to a place called the Clansman Centre, where we watched a rugged old Scottish man (proudly of clan Robertson) speak of how utterly disgusting and brutal life in the Highlands was hundreds of years ago as well as demonstrate how to properly pleat and put on a kilt. We then drove up the entire length of Loch Ness. Fun facts about Loch Ness: It contains more fresh water than all the lakes in England and Wales combined, Nessie has not been sighted since early 2013, and there is a monetary prize of a million pounds for someone who can provide concrete proof of a legitimate sighting (i.e. a good photograph). For anyone who doesn't know how much the exchange rate hurts us Americans over here, that's about 1.6 million dollars. Needless to say, we were somewhat disappointed we didn't see her.

We stayed Saturday night at a hostel in Inverness. If that sounds familiar to you, it's probably because you had to read Macbeth for school at some point, because Inverness is where (spoiler alert) King Duncan was murdered. I'm actually a big fan of Macbeth so I was busy geeking out just being there. Our tour guide recommended a pub called Hootenanny's to us, and I must say the Hootenanny's experience was my favorite night I have had abroad so far. It had live music and a lively crowd, and being the strange Americans we stood in the front but didn't know how to move to Scottish folk music until a seemingly random man walked in and showed us how to dance and wouldn't let us stand still. After that, we were not the strange Americans sitting on the floor but the strange Americans who were trying to have a Ceilidh (basically a Scottish dance party) even though we couldn't dance. I have had the chorus of a folk song about Thomas Paine stuck in my head for 24 hours now.
On Sunday we mostly drove so we could make it back to Edinburgh in time to catch our train back to London. We did make three stops: Culloden Battlefield (think Braveheart), Clava Cairns (4000 year old rocks and burial grounds), and the Hermitage, a beautiful wooded walk with waterfalls. I geeked out here too, as the Hermitage was the setting for Birnam Wood in Macbeth and I thought of those great prophecies and multiple smacks to the face all laid out for Macbeth. Well done, Shakespeare.
It truly was the "Americans take over the Ceilidh" night that made it for me. Even as I danced, if you can really call it dancing, I thought to myself how special Scotland is to me and how this is an experience I would have never been able to have without study abroad and indeed without this particular excursion. To think I'd made it all the way back to this place four years later, and made a new, unique memory that makes it that much better. I didn't think it was possible for Scotland to get any cooler, but clearly I was mistaken. I can't wait to go back.

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By nmbutler3

The end has finally come…Most of my fellow abroad students have made their way back to the States by now. I cannot look at Facebook without seeing statuses about leaving various countries and returning home for Christmas, and I cannot help but be reminded that I only have a week left before I too have to make my way back across the pond. It sounds incredibly cliché, but the thought of returning home is an immensely bittersweet feeling. On the one hand knowing that I’ll be coming home to a warm Christmas-y welcome from family and friends that I have not seen or really talked to in ages, is a nice thought and I cannot help but look forward to it. It also means I’ll finally be able to catch up with friends that have also been abroad and hear all about their stories and adventures. On the other hand though, going home means leaving Edinburgh, and to be entirely honest, I don’t quite think I am ready to do that yet. Leaving means saying goodbye to good friends and fond memories, challenges and struggles, adventures and exciting experiences. It means I have to say goodbye to a new life I’ve established and return to the familiar grind of regular life.

Coming here was in many ways, like starting college all over again. I knew no one, had no idea how the system worked, but thought I knew myself and understood at least my own outlook on life. And just like freshman year, I am leaving behind wonderful new friends and taking with me a much refined perspective on the world around me, along with a much improved understanding of myself. Knowing no one and not having a program of fellow American students to fall back on for support forced me to reach out of my comfort zone and open up to new people almost immediately, which is admittedly not one of my strong suits, but I eventually managed and in addition to making close friendships with people from all over the world, I was reminded how to relate to people, especially people who come from very different backgrounds from what I am normally accustomed to. In reflection, this was probably my biggest challenge while abroad. The similarities of British and Scottish cultures to American culture, as well has my personality, made most other adjustments relatively easy, especially compared to the adjustments other study abroad students had to make; however, remembering how to make new friends and relate to diverse individuals, with whom you often have to navigate between the cultural similarities and differences, can be incredibly difficult. That being said, it can also be incredibly telling of yourself and a, albeit slightly forced, perfect opportunity to connect and relate to others.

More importantly though, studying abroad, flipped and twisted and confused, a lot of what I thought I knew about the world and myself. Living in Edinburgh reminded me how beautiful and exciting cities could be, an appreciation I had started to lose in DC, and traveling throughout the UK and Europe rehydrated my thirst for adventure and taught me to not be a traveler, rather than a tourist. Actually taking challenging classes outside of my usual focal areas led me to new academic interests and made me reconsider my future academic and career plans. Most importantly though, studying abroad has taught me to see everything as an adventure, to see even the familiar through the eyes of someone who is experiencing it for the very first time, to allow life to unfold before you rather than set expectations that constrain and limit your future, and to appreciate even the small details as something wonderful. When I think of my fondest memories here, most are of experiences I had set no expectations for or had not anticipated. From the Scottish national anthem at the national rugby matches to adventures in Belgium to traditional Swedish Christmas carols sung by friends as a St. Lucia Day surprise this past weekend, the unexpected unprecedented moments have been among the best. This is probably because when you approach a situation, not with expectations, but instead with an open mind, everything comes as a pleasant surprise and you can actually genuinely experience and engage with what’s going on around you. Looking at the world in such a way, also taught me to appreciate the smaller details. Back in DC, I walk past famous monuments, national agencies, and international institutions on a daily basis and rarely bat an eye. In Edinburgh though, since everything is this new, exciting experience abroad, every little statue, street sign, painted door and bird are each unique and beautiful details that you cannot help but notice. I have learned to look at the world around me, not has this static imposition of concrete and stone around me, but as a dynamic integration of color, history, culture and art that flow together to create an ever changing, multidimensional picture. I’ve been reminded how to see the beauty in what’s around me and not just see that beauty with my eyes but as an actual tangible experience. I suppose it can’t get much cheesier than that, but then again, that might be the point. I’ve learning this past semester, that when you are traveling, whether it be across the world, or just around the corner to the store, if you are open to the experience, the world has to much more to offer than you could possibly imagine to expect. And with that, I bid adieu to Edinburgh, at least for now.

Published on

By nmbutler3

With only two weeks left here in Scotland, I probably should be writing about preparing for exams while abroad and balancing the travel and academic aspects of studying abroad. However, as a fairly typical exchange student, I am writing instead about what I learned while traveling over the past week instead of studying for my upcoming exams. This past week was the university’s reading week, so naturally two of my flatmates and I took the spare time to make our way through Europe, moving farther southeast and farther from English as we went. We started in Amsterdam for a day and then moved to Brussels for two days. Following Belgium, my other American flatmate and I made our way to Barcelona for two days, and then I headed off on my own to Siena in Tuscany to visit a friend finishing the semester there. I could tell you about all the beautiful buildings and lights, and coastal waves, and songlike languages of the locals, but you can see all those in the movies and postcards. Instead, here are the most important things I learned in each city:

1. Plan your visit, or at least make a bucket list of what you want to do in your destination. Just exploring a city on your own and discovering what it has to offer through your own experience can be exciting, and can often lead you to things you would have never found in a tourist map. That being said, never underestimate the importance of a backup plan or at least some planning at all. I learned this in Amsterdam the hard way. Since we were only there for one night and two half days, we hadn’t planned too much of what to do. As a result, we missed out on a lot of really amazing things the city has to offer because we either didn’t’ know about it until it was too late or because we didn’t plan the travelling and directions ahead of time. Luckily, one of my flatmates had done some research and had looked into an art gallery that featured predominately Dutch painters and artists, including several pieces by Van Gogh, so the day was not wasted. We also learned that Van Gogh is actually pronounced Van “Ouaff” (as though you are hacking up the word). Just a nice little fun fact.

2. Make friends with other travelers, not tourists. Belgium was probably one of the most beautiful and lively cities I have ever visited, and the two nights and days we spent there were some of the most fun my flatmates and I had on our trip. A huge part of the fun was the people we met while there. There is a very distinct difference between people who travel and people who are tourists. If you haven’t already experienced this difference, you will as soon as you travel. It is difficult to understand until you experience it, but the easiest way to describe it is that a tourist sees a city, while a traveler experiences it. Needless to say, you should always aim to be a traveler and surround yourself with the like. The travelers we met in Belgium, two Australians, a Canadian and a Brazilian, helped us to experience the city not through the lens of a camera, but instead through appreciative and open eyes.

3.  Try to understand some history and culture of your destination before you get there. Barcelona certainly put my Spanish to the test, and while I knew enough for us to get by, it was a limiting factor in many regards. What was arguably more limiting though, was our lack of knowledge of the culture and history of the city. While there, in addition to the classic sites, we went on an alternative tour that explored some of the darker aspects of the city, like its anarchist roots, street art, community structures, social issues and various other topics you don’t normally hear about on a typical tour of buildings and dates. While it was fascinating and mind-opening, I was left with so many unanswered questions and lost appreciation that could have been avoided if I had taken the time to familiarize myself more with the history of the city. I’m not saying you have to pull a full research report on everywhere you visit, but a few hits on a google search, or even better, a few pages in a book, will significantly enhance your perspective on, appreciation for, and understanding of your destination.

4. Be prepared to visit friends outside of the normal context. It is fairly standard to visit your other friends studying abroad during your travels, which can be very comforting and help to keep you connected while on across the pond. That being said, it can also be a very strange and in a way mildly isolating experience. It’s difficult to keep in mind, that just like you, your friends have been spending the semester making new friends and sharing experiences with new people, which can be strange to come into from the outside. Of course, seeing your friend is exciting and definitely worth it, and your friend will be excited to see you and their new friends are likely just as excited to meet you. Just be prepared to miss out on some inside jokes and group dynamic things. Don’t worry too much though; the same things will inevitably happen when friends come to visit you, and it’s all just part of the experience.

Published on

By nmbutler3

Christmas, particularly the time leading up to the holiday itself, is without a doubt my favorite time of year. Since I don’t get back to the states until JUST before Christmas, spending the season abroad was initially a bit concerning – no family, no secret santas, no warm house smelling of cookies and pine to come home to, no rush of Black Friday shopping or trying to sneakily hide gifts. But as the holidays draw nearer, I am starting to really appreciate Christmas in Edinburgh and the UK more generally.

Some things are a bit different of course. The most apparent is probably the lack of holiday buffer. Now I realize that this may sound strange, but allow me to explain. The buffer time that Thanksgiving provides between Halloween and the winter holidays is key to making the season such a magical time. In the UK though, with no Thanksgiving to impede the oncoming headlights of Christmas, garland and ornaments and Santas start appearing just after Halloween-that's an entire extra month of Christmas prep! Not that I am complaining, a little extra holiday cheer never hurt anyone, but it does take some adjustment to get used to not hearing people gripe about decorations in shops in November. There are some benefits though to not having Thanksgiving though, mainly the appreciation for pumpkin pie. I cannot count the number of British people I've met that have never had real pumpkin pie before. Needless to say, I racked up some serious friendship points last Thursday. Now that the Thanksgiving buffer has officially passed, I'm finally able to appreciate all that Scotland has to offer during the holidays. There have been two experiences in particular that have really upped my holiday cheer. The first is the scenery of the snowcapped highlands in the winter. Although the middle and southern belts of Scotland don't really see any snow until late December-January, the highlands up north are already a winter wonderland, with snowy mountains and twinkling lights and little villages full of cottages, all with smoke rising from the chimney. It's just like falling into a Christmas card. Not to mention, up in the Cairngorms National Park, there is an actual reindeer center where you can see an entire herd of reindeer. The other holiday experience was right here in Edinburgh at the city's Christmas Village festival. With so much extra time for prep and anticipation, Edinburgh spares no expense when it comes to the holiday. The entire central Princes Street Gardens are transformed into a Christmas village to rival the north pole, complete with ice skating, a slew of hot beverages, holiday bakery and other foods galore, Christmas crafts and gifts, and a Christmas theatre where the show a different play each week. There is even a giant Ferris wheel that overlooks all the lights and sights of the city. It's literally like being a kid at Christmas again! Of course, even with such magical experiences, being away from friends and family at the holidays is still very difficult, but you just have to make the most of it and enjoy the holiday traditions with a new twist.

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By nmbutler3

When you tell someone you’re studying abroad in the UK one of the first questions you hear is “oh, have you been to London yet?” London – with the queen and Big Ben and the Thames – is one of the quintessential European cities that everyone seems to want to visit. So naturally, it was near the top of my list of places I wanted to visit while abroad and this past weekend I was finally able to check the iconic city off my bucket list. To be entirely honest though, I didn’t fall in love with it like I had expected to. Now before I write anything else, London IS a wonderful city. It’s bustling with a lively energy and bursting with a rich history, and there is never a shortage of things to do and see. That being said, after visiting, I felt there was something lacking in the impact the city had on me.  Up until now, most of my traveling has been to more rural and lesser-known locations, like Galway, Glencoe and Perthshire, which although all beautiful, at the time had me worried that I was somehow missing some necessary abroad experience. After this weekend though, I realized just how wrong I was.

For me, studying abroad is about trying new things and experiencing new cultures and ways of life, and while big cities like London are exciting and new, they are often highly international, and in many cases Americanized, so you tend to miss out on getting a unique experience. Again, please don’t get me wrong. There were so many things to do in London that couldn’t happen anywhere else. We saw the Big Ben, Buckingham Palace, Westminster Abbey, St. John’s Cathedral, Abbey Road, 221 Baker Street, Tower Bridge, the Tower of London and the Eye. We went to the London Food Festival and the local markets and took the underground and, even took a train out of King’s Cross Station – all things you can only do in London. But, these attractions are not what define a culture or even an experience for that matter. Sure they were all very interesting and beautiful and exciting, but none gave me that unimaginable new view or unexpected cultural understanding. To be honest, it seemed like the sights of big buildings and lots of people were all I was really getting out of my time. I interacted with few actual locals, and there were no instances of surprise or shock or bettered perspective, not to mention, most of my experiences were rushed along either by other tourists or our goal to see and do everything in such a short time frame. As a result, when I compare London to the other places I’ve been, I view the more rural areas much more fondly. With other places I have visited, I was able to really immerse myself into the local culture and environment. With “smaller locations” you can easily lose yourself within the city or town or village and actual enjoy the experience without rushing. People in these more lesser-traveled locations also tend to be much more open, friendly and personably accommodating, so you are able to better experience and embrace the local culture and actually learn or try something entirely new. Personally, I’d take experiencing a new culture like that over fighting other tourists to see an impressive building any day.

So, don’t stress about jet-setting across Europe to see all the major cities. Instead take the time to explore what’s around you. Trust me; it’ll pay off more than you know. And again, just for the record, I’m not saying to skip out on London or some other major city. I’m just warning you that not loving London (or whatever other city) is a very real possibility, especially if you’re looking for more than just another city.

Published on

By nmbutler3

When people think of UK and European sports, football (or soccer for us Americans) tends to be the first, if not only thing to come to mind, and while I am by instinct an avid soccer fan, I've learned that here in Scotland, it’s rugby that holds the hearts of the people. Don’t get me wrong, football matches are still very much an integral part of Scottish recreation, but that being said, nothing seems to unify people together quite like a rugby match.

The Scottish National Rugby team is currently in the middle of their autumn tests, and living in Edinburgh means I am able to see a few matches. So far I’ve been able to go to the Scotland v. Japan and the Scotland v. South Africa games, and I have to say that watching a rugby match in Murrayfield Stadium is one of the must-dos of Edinburgh. The opening of the match alone is one of the most inspiring experiences I’ve ever encountered. Youtube Flower of Scotland at Murrayfield Stadium and you’ll get a hint of what I mean. Flower of Scotland is the unofficial national anthem of Scotland (God Save the Queen is the British anthem) and to hear the stadium resound with the prideful verses sung by every Scottish person present is unlike anything you would ever encounter in the States. Sure, Americans will hum and quietly sing along with the national anthem at sporting events, but never like this. The Scottish auxiliary band plays the first to verses of the song while seemingly every Scotsman in the arena proudly belts out the words as though they were the ones standing down on the pitch at the microphone, which in and of itself is beautiful, but then when the third and final verse rolls around, the band cuts out and the continued resounding sound of the proudly sung words literally reverberates through your entire body despite the fact that there are no loud speakers echoing the song, just the voices of the rugby fans. It is absolutely amazing. Just look it up, trust me, or better yet, go to a match because I cannot even begin to convey the awe and powerfulness of the experience. Not to mention, the tangible united pride aside, the fact that you can tell just by looking that every Scottish person there not only believes the words they are singing, but actually feel them. In any other circumstance, a group of professional rugby players and gruff fans, all with the glimmer of a tear in their eyes would be a strange sight to see, but at Murrayfield it would be hard to imagine it any other way. The song is actually that powerful.

Anyway, moving past the opening, the match itself is an amazing experience. Fans are incredibly dedicated, but not in an obnoxious or oppositional, trash-talking way that you sometimes see with American sports. Rather, Scottish rugby fans seem to be almost exclusively supportive and never, and I do mean NEVER, give up on their team. The score of the South Africa game was Scotland: 0 and South Africa: 28 and the fans never dwindled or lost faith. People also seemed so much more interested in the plays and details of the game than you see in a many American sporting events.

The entire experience was positively inspiring, which sounds a bit exaggerated, seeing as it was just a rugby match, but trust me, it is unlike anything else. The energy, the unity, the pride; it is like experiencing one of those inspirational sports movies in real life. Absolutely a must-do for any bucket list.

Published on

By nmbutler3

I've written a lot about the new experiences and opportunities I've had thus far, which are definitely the more exciting and interesting aspects of the study abroad experience. Admittedly though, they don’t include the majority of what I've actually been doing while abroad. When people think of studying abroad, they usually imagine tasty foods and exotic places, lots of travelling and unique experiences, but that doesn't really capture the “real” abroad experience. So, in honor of the first relaxed weekend I've had since arriving in Edinburgh, I figured I would write about the day-to-day life of studying abroad.

First thing’s first, as I've mentioned in other posts, studying abroad actually involves a lot of well, studying. So naturally, most of my day is occupied by studying and course work. I’m taking four upper-level classes here, all ecology or plant biology focused, which take up quite a bit of time. I usually start the day fairly early in the morning with classes, which are about a half hour walk from my dorm, and am occupied with lectures, labs and coursework until mid-afternoon or early evening. The nice thing about the studying culture here is that while it is common, and almost standard, to study during the day and between classes, studying during the evenings is not usually the norm. So, most afternoons are occupied by study sessions in the library or a nearby café, leaving the evenings generally study-free.  Instead, evenings are usually spent at meetings or outings with various student organizations. Personally, I have joined the Hill Walking Club, which is actually a hiking/mountaineering club, and the Beer and Cider Society for the semester. As an exchange student, societies (student organizations) are definitely the best way to meet people, and fortunately, the societies here are all very active and usually meet three to four times a week. Other weekday evening activities typically include the weekly flat mate dinner, a quick swing by the pub, a trip to the gym and other regular errands. As you can probably guess, it’s really not the most exciting of times, but nonetheless, it all manages to keep you busy and active throughout the week.

Luckily, the weekends tend to make up for the normalcy of the weeks and remind you that you are actually in a new country surrounded by a different culture and exciting opportunities. Even quiet or relaxed weekend can be a refreshing reminder of how exciting the experience you’re having is. Take for example this past weekend. I mentioned it was my first relaxed weekend, no trips or excursions out of the city or country, just a trip to the local Portobello beach and a few café study sessions. It all sounds fairly boring, but in addition to just giving myself a chance to recharge, it was a pleasant reminder of the fact that even the small, seemingly insignificant features around you, such as a short beach strip and pier, the local pub, or a small café, are part of a unique and exciting new culture and landscape that you can constantly be soaking in.

 

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