Skip to content

By paigebradford

On the list of Reims tourist attractions, next to the plethora of famously acclaimed champagne distilleries, is the Notre-Dame Cathedral of Reims. The Gothic masterpiece is known as the traditional coronation site of the kings of France, and is hailed for its rich body of sculpture. My first encounter with the Cathedral was on my first day of arrival, when my host mother family generously offered to give me a short driving tour of the city. The Notre Dame Cathedral of Reims was our first stop, where I was instantly stunned by the sheer size of structure. Julliette, my host sister, told me how most people are often surprised to hear how the Reims Cathedral is bigger than the one in Paris.

The exterior of the Cathedral is the epitome of royalty. Along the front façade and on the sides, are beautifully decorated sculpted figures ranging from French royalty to biblical figures. In the center is a colorful rose window framed by an arch, which draws the viewer in. I also couldn’t help but notice the buttresses flanked on either side of the Cathedral, for they are also beautifully decorative and representative of the Cathedrals grandeur. One interesting detail my host mother pointed out to me was the Smiling Angel statue, which looked as though it was looking down at us as we walked into the Cathedral. The Smiling Angel is the most beloved of the Cathedral’s statues, and has become a symbol of the place

When I first stepped inside the Cathedral the gaping space from the floor to the ceiling was unlike any architectural formation I have witnessed. The first thing which caught my eye were the stained-glass windows which line the Cathedrals walls and apse. The windows are made up of a mix of 13th and 20th century styles, for after the First World War most of the windows were destroyed. Therefore, the more modern styled windows were a part of a restoration project which is still underway today. As I walked down the side of the aisles I read about the history of the Cathedral and how it was originally the seat of the Archbishop of Reims, and was the coronation site of Frances first King, Clovis.

...continue reading "Notre-Dame Cathedral of Reims"

By paigebradford

Normandy, a region in northern France, is one of the 18 Départements which make up mainland France. Luckily for me I had the good fortune to travel to this region as a part of the GW Paris program along with other GW students. I feel guilty to say my knowledge of the history of Normandy prior to the trip was limited to the D-Day landing and a vague understanding of The Battle of Normandy during World War Two. Therefore, it was an eye-opening experience when we arrived at our first stop, the Normandy Memorial in Caen, because I learned a lot about the brutality Normandy faced under the occupation of Germany, and the hardships soldiers and civilians underwent during the many battles.

The battle of Normandy is often referred to as the battle which won back Europe. It was a movement which began on June 6th, 1944 where the Allied forces launched the biggest and the arguably the greatest maritime invasion in history, which was intended to free all those under the suppression of the Nazi regime. Walking through each room within the memorial made me feel a deep sense of remorse and respect towards all those involved in the conflict. Reflecting now on the significance of the battle I believe D-day and the other Allied invasions of Normandy represent all that is virtuous in modern liberal democracy.

...continue reading "A Trip to Normandy"

By paigebradford

 

Three unusual french dishes I have experimented with while abroad are escargots, frog legs, and quail eggs. I first tried escargots when I visited Paris after I graduated high school, so the taste was not fresh in my mind. After my first week in Reims a few other exchange students and I made plans to go out to dinner at a brasserie near campus. After debating over whether we ought to step out of our comfort zone and try a new dish, we came to the consensus that instead of each of us trying something new, we would all together share a plate of escargots. We were served a dozen snails, just enough for each of us to try three. The texture and taste is similar to clams and oysters, but drenched in a butter garlic sauce. Although escargots are not typically something thing I would order from a restaurant menu, I enjoyed getting to experience the French dish a second time around.

...continue reading "Unusual Eats"

One of the reasons why Reims is a unique city in my eyes is because it lacks the large franchises which typically characterize cities. In Reims one can find a long list of boulangeries (bakeries), patisseries (pastry shops), charcuteries (meat shops), and poissonneries (fish shops) all run by local artisans who are passionate about their business and products. Just from my encounters with local business owners, it seems much of the businesses are family owned and have been passed down for generations. A few of my favorite and most recommended locally owned businesses in the city are Fossier (biscuit making business), and Colpart Bernard (Bakery).

I first learned about biscuit Fossier from my host mother, because it is her family’s company which has been passed down through the generations since 1756. These biscuits are a regional specialty, unique to the city of Reims. The historic tradition of biscuit Fossier was that the biscuits were meant to be had with champagne, for their airy texture was intended to soak up the champagne. The classic Fossier biscuits look like pink dominos lined up in a box coated in white powdered sugar, however today there are numerous different types of biscuits produced and sold by Fossier. There are three factories scattered around the city of Reims where the biscuits are made, and one shop in the center of the city dedicated solely to the sale of the biscuits. Fossier biscuits can also be found in larger food markets like Carrefour and Monoprix.

...continue reading "The best of Reims"

By paigebradford

Translated to English as “liberty, equality, fraternity,” is the national motto of France, and can be spotted on top of government buildings, national monuments, schools, and sometimes on the doors of local artisan stores. However, just recently I found the phrase in a new environment. When protestors took to the streets last week against President Emmanuel Macron’s plans to make the country’s staunch labour laws more flexible for employers, there was a day of strikes and demonstrations where people were seen hoisting up banners and signs reading “liberté, égalité, fraternité”. Although the protests in Reims weren’t as tumultuous as the ones in Paris, bus lines stopped running, and a few Sciences Po professors commuting from Paris were unable to make it to class.

What I have learned so far during my time in France, is how this triangle of core values is able to summon emotions of pride and solidarity even in a society growing increasingly diverse both culturally and politically. It reminds people of how they have a right to demand that their voices be heard whether it be in favor or against the establishment. In class discussions and casual conversations with my classmates, I find that the general consensus towards Macrons new labour regulations are positive. Most argue the reforms will bring France’s labour model closer to the German and the UK model, and will help tackle France’s high unemployment rate which is currently around 9.5%. On the other end of the spectrum people believe the reforms will make it easier for businesses to fire employees for arbitrary reasons, and will overall reduce the rights of employees both individually and collectively.

...continue reading "Liberté, égalité, fraternité"