Skip to content

By ldanielowski18

Currently, my semester runs from August 15th- November 26th. This means that I am wrapping up my finals this week, breaking ground on my independent study, and I’m about halfway through my program. I cannot believe it! There are a lot of reasons this feels exciting but also a little weird, the first being that it’s already October and still 100 degrees everyday in Madurai (I may often have a flair for the dramatic when it comes to temperature but this whole 100 degrees business is a true, hard fact).

So basically, the days are only getting hotter and I am living in an eternal August. Although I can’t complain too much about the heat when its very presence is the reason that coconuts and papayas are as plentiful and bodacious as ever. And if there’s one thing I know I love in this world it’s a ripe and tender coconut.

Every time I do something new (whether that be learning how to cross the street without getting hit by a cascade of city buses or pronouncing every fifth Tamil word with even the slightest bit of accuracy) I feel like I am learning more about myself which is really cool! It’s definitely not one jolly stroll along a flowery path to self discovery because with all this fun self discovery comes a little but of growing pain. The onslaught of well intentioned but ear piercing honking that seems to forever be echoing from the streets can be in a word, frustrating.

...continue reading "Learning New Stuff is Cool and Fun and Sometimes Involves Mosquitoes: Midpoint Reflection"

By ldanielowski18

Hands down, one of the best parts of my study abroad experience thus far has been indulging in the heavenliness that is South Indian food. South Indian food uses a lot of lentils, chickpeas, rice, coconut (!!!), and veggies (one of the most interesting veggies present in a lot of the dishes is the drumtree, a fibrous okra-like vegetable). For non-veg south Indian, one can find mutton or chicken. Currently, the best non-veg meal I’ve had is mutton biriyani, which is a rice dish with onions, sometimes a little tomato, and a sauce. The mutton falls off the bone and is so ridiculously tender I am often entranced.

Every time my ammaa places a new dish in front of me for dinner, I emit a noise that can only be compared to that of a wild grizzly bear reveling in its spoils (table manners were never exactly my strong suit). In my first two weeks of being in India, I fell in love with the greasy, flaky, decadent egg parotta. However, it was not long before new foods caught my eye and led me astray from my first true love. Lately, I have been quite taken with dosa, which can only really be described as a sourdough crepe served with a number of chutneys.

...continue reading "I’m in love with south Indian food and I don’t care who knows it"

By ldanielowski18

I was able to attend a Hindu wedding ceremony at a wedding hall in downtown Madurai as a guest of my host parents. The entryway boasted two, tall, freshly cut banana trees as well as an assortment of small colorful ornaments hanging from the top of the threshold. Women sat at a table outside of the wedding hall with (yellow paste), kum kum, red flowers, and sugar crystals to distribute to guests.

All of the women in attendance were wearing ornate sarees, most of which featured a number of intricate gold details and vibrant colors. The men in attendance sported western clothing that was significantly more casual, typically a button-down shirt or t-shirt and jeans or slacks. This casual style carried over to small boys, who similarly wore sandals or sneakers with a graphic t-shirt or button down. The groom was wearing a white kurta and pants with sandals when he arrived, but later changed into a suit to receive gifts with his new bride and take pictures with guests. Upon his arrival, a queue of women met the groom at the entrance holding plates with rupees fanned out, fruits, and painted figurines depicting couples in love. Each woman and girl offered the gift and was given a gift by the groom in return.

...continue reading "Observations at a Hindu Wedding Ceremony"

By ldanielowski18

One of my favorite parts about my study abroad experience thus far has been living with my host family. I have found them to be one of the greatest sources of comfort and support when I encounter a touch of culture shock and general uncertainty in my day to day lifestyle. My family has been hosting students for over ten years and has seen the kinds of challenges students encounter while living in Madurai and as such have become old hats at helping students adjust accordingly.

We are encouraged to call our host family members by Tamil kinship terms (ammaa for mother and appaa for father, etc.). In the Tamil language, using kinship terms to refer to others even if they are not biologically related to you is often a sign of respect or affection. For example, children may refer to older women they look up to or know well as aunty and people may refer to men outside of their family who they respect as tampi (younger brother).

...continue reading "Finding Support in Your Host Family"

By ldanielowski18

In my program, my coursework is centered largely on anthropological theory and concepts with a decent amount of overlapping sociological themes. One of my favorite classes I am taking this semester is a sociology/women’s studies course entitled Gender, Caste, and Politics. The course is taught by Professor Tiphagne, an incredible professor from Lady Doak College, the largest all-women’s college in Madurai.

Professor Tiphagne is a wealth of knowledge about how sociological phenomenon play out in India’s caste system and how these broader concepts are intrinsically tied to and greatly influence definitions of gender in society. Professor Tiphagne’s lectures and discussion of the coursework was not unfamiliar to me; my sociology classes are continually taught by professors engaging with coursework with an intersectional framework.

...continue reading "Studying Sociology in Madurai"

By ldanielowski18

As part of my program, students are encouraged to take an “Expressive Cultures” class in addition to their regular coursework. There are a variety of classes offered, ranging from lessons on the Veena (Indian guitar), Henna art, Silambam (Indian stick fighting), to classes on Indian cooking and yoga. I like the idea of integrating classes like this into my experience abroad because it really allows for me to engage with some of the broader cultural concepts I am learning about in my academic coursework. I also think the act of attending these classes pushes you to be more present rather than constantly being occupied by concerns regarding upcoming assignments and just generally being too preoccupied with future tasks.
For my Expressive Cultures class, I have elected to take a beginner’s Bollywood Dance class. Naturally I shy away from activities that require me to have any sense of rhythm or strategic coordination of my arms and legs. Typically, my favorite (and only) kind of dancing may affectionately be described as “enthusiastic” (or more accurately enthusiastically spastic).

...continue reading "The Adventures of an Uncoordinated American in a Bollywood Dance Class"

By ldanielowski18

I can easily say that my first two weeks in India have been full of awesome new experiences and a lot of delicious food. So far my personal favorite is egg parotta, which is egg, onion, drum tree leaves, and a number of spices mixed in with a flaky, buttery bread (parotta) that is chopped up. In addition to trying a number of tasty south Indian dishes, I am continuing to learn how to adjust to the seriously hot South Indian climate and working my way through a functional Tamil class. Tamil is spoken language of Tamil Nadu and is chock full of beautiful characters but has definitely proven to be a challenge to read! I have also stocked up on salwar kamiz, a traditionally north Indian style of dress that, in south India, is most commonly worn by young women.

...continue reading "Greetings from Madurai!"