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Tag: Ireland

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By kennatim

Looking back, the biggest shock when I arrived in Ireland was how American I realized I was. I have been fortunate enough to travel overseas prior to this trip, but to become a resident of another country was not an easy task. The change forced me to realize how much I relied and focused on American culture and way of life. I hunted for Oreos in numerous supermarkets, wore my backwards hats, and overly embraced my foreignness. Now my room here at DCU is filled with an American flag, an American flag towel, American flag backpack, American flag flip flops, and an American flag duvet cover with a matching American flag pillowcase.

While I have continued to embrace my home culture and individualism, I have slowly embraced a more European way of life and made sure to try new things. At the very minimum, I have evolved from my over-the-top American flag shopping spree. Throughout our time in Ireland and our travels to other cities, we have frequently used the adjective “euro.” My wardrobe is now a little more “euro” after buying a couple pieces of clothing at a local store. I am a little more euro in that I can now look the right way when crossing a street. I say “sorry” instead of excuse me, which is an easy way for Irish to spot foreigners.

When I was in Brussels, I visited European Parliament, and on nights out I made friends from Austria to Egypt. In Scotland we visited a local food market and I made sure to try as many local fares as I could (but I could not bring myself to eat haggis.) In Paris, I became an expert on the sprawling Paris metro system. This time I was a bit more adventurous when I tried roasted duck and absolutely loved it. We drank wine and ate croissants and crepes in every corner of the city.

I am so glad I have been evolving into someone more comfortable with a culture, attitude, and home that is not my own. It has been great to get to mainland Europe as well to compare/contrast not just the U.S. and Ireland, but the U.S., Ireland, Scotland, France, Belgium, etc. I have a few trips left and about a month in Dublin. I will be leaving behind so much but come back a person with a better level of cultural understanding. The transition back might not be easy but I will make it through. Even if that means covering everything in my room with an Irish flag.

 

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By kennatim

The first time I heard the phrase “your man” was in a phone conversation with my Irish cousin. He was referring to my good friend Luke whom he had met at a Gaelic football game when we had first met as well. I was intrigued by the phrase, mostly because of the distinctly Irish pronunciation: “Yer maan Luke.”

Now most Americans writing about Irish slang would immediately be drawn to the word “craic.” Craic is a word that means fun that can be used in a variety of different contexts: “What’s the craic”= “What’s up,” “Any craic last night?”= “Did you have fun,” etc. Based upon the pronunciation bearing striking similarity to an illegal drug, it is a tough phrase for foreigners to get used to.

To me, “Yer man” embodies Irish culture in a way that “craic” does not. My cousin Joe has been kind enough to take me on a couple trips exploring Ireland. We went up to the North, exploring the still-divided city of Derry and stopping at small towns along the way. A week later we took the long drive south to the Dingle Peninsula and a portion of the Ring of Kerry. This beautiful area of spectacular scenery was only made better by a beautiful day and some of the freshest fish and chips consumed steps away from the boats that had caught it.

Spending time with Joe was when I heard the phrase used the most. But I have heard it plenty from my Irish roommates, in classes, and just about everywhere in everyday life. Why it so peculiarly reflects Irish culture is it’s use. Similar to the American phrase “your boy,” it describes good friends. But it is also used very frequently with a sarcastic tone. For example, I once heard someone mention “Yer man Graham Dwyer.” Graham Dwyer is a former architect that was recently convicted of a brutal and sadistic murder in a case that consumed Ireland. Once in the mall, I witnessed a man, most likely just very drunk, lying in the middle of the hall right as the police arrived. I went, did my shopping, and when I returned to get a new SIM card and leave, he was still there. When I asked the phone kiosk employee what had happened and why he had been laying there for over 30 minutes, he explained that he was not sure what “yer man” was up to.

Irish people are very laid back, somewhat sarcastic, and have a very tongue in cheek tone to their conversations. They approach serious topics with a level of humor to make them easier to swallow. It is a set of attitudes that I am very fond of. “Yer man” embodies of the many reasons I am so happy I chose Dublin to study abroad.

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Protesters blocking traffic

One of the most pressing issues in Ireland and one I do not fully understand is a proposal for water charges. From my understanding, the Irish government is proposing water charges for water use in homes across Ireland, a by-amount charge they do not currently receive, as it is viewed as a public resource. There has been a huge backlash from many citizens, either politically or fundamentally opposed to the idea, or who simply do not want to pay for water.

It seemed like an incredibly interesting debate at first. I have witnessed large protest marches and many people simply standing in the middle of busy downtown intersections, with honking cars for miles, with a sign saying “no water charges.” At some point recently though, these protests went from intriguing to comical to me.   After hearing the government’s justifications, it just makes sense. Citizens in just about every Western country pays for water, and the charges could also be seen as potentially eco-friendly. But if it is hurting someone’s wallet, you know there will be some backlash.

I was actually fortunate enough to experience this debate firsthand. My cousin set me up with a visit to the Irish Parliament in Dublin city centre, called the House of Oireachtas, which consists of the Dail, or House, and Seanad, or Senate. There I was met by a member of the staff of my cousin’s TD, Derek Keating. I was given a guided tour of their House and Senate, which was a lot smaller and more intimate. We had a cup of tea at one of two bars inside of the building. I even got to sit in on a committee hearing regarding coverage on the national television station, RTE.

The coolest part of the visit, however, was sitting in on the Dail for Leader’s Questions. This is a procedure where a representative from each opposition party is given the opportunity to publicly ask the Prime Minister two questions. I got to witness the two main Irish political figures I was familiar with duke it out with words: Enda Kenny, Prime Minister, and Gerry Adams, the leader of Sinn Fein with strong IRA ties and a reputation stemming from “The Troubles” of the late 20th Century. They were debating about, what else, Irish water. Adams did make some interesting points against the measure but he did not change my mind.

The visit to the Dail was interesting and gave me a better understanding of numerous issues in Ireland including the water argument. The day was topped off when I met the opposition leader, Michael Martin, on my way out of the building. My cousin told me that there is a good chance he will be the next Taoiseach, or Prime Minister. I will spend my final weeks here enjoying my water, but I would not be upset if I have to start paying for it!

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By Shannon McKeown

Northern Ireland, and specifically its capital Belfast, has a long history of inter-community violence rooted in a deep ethno-sectarian divide. This divide stems from clashes between Protestant Unionists, who want to remain a part of Britain, and Catholic Republicans, who wish to be a part of the state of Ireland. Violence began as early as the 17th century when the English and Scottish came to Northern Ireland (then considered ‘Ulster’) in order to establish plantations. The conflict came to a head in the 1960s, which began a period known as ‘The Troubles’ in which there was an increase in violence on both sides, usually instigated by paramilitaries, and many causalities. In the 1990s, an initiative for a peace process was established, ending in the Good Friday Agreement of 1998. More than fifteen years later, the ceasefire has continued to hold and with the exception of a few rare cases, politically motivated violence has ceased to exist in the city of Belfast. However, although the city is now a much safer place to live, there is still a substantial lack of trust and interaction between the two communities. While peace was established on the surface, there is still a lack of a deep-rooted peace.

Living in Belfast during their period of reconciliation has been an eye opening experience. Many aspects of living in the city that may seem strange to someone from the United States are a part of the daily life of Belfast citizens. There are protestant communities and catholic communities, and they do not interact with one another. In some cases, peace walls higher than the Berlin wall separate the neighborhoods in order to avoid confrontation between them. While there is technically ‘peace,’ it is a separate peace.

Interestingly, one of the issues that has the most potential for a violent confrontation is the flag. In the United States, it is an ordinary sight to see the American flag hanging from houses and buildings. In Belfast, the flags are a symbolic reflection of the divide. In unionist neighborhoods, the British flag is present, while in republican neighborhoods, the Irish flag is used. You immediately know which side’s neighborhood you are entering. Due to this, parades and marching are also a form of contention here in Belfast. The unionists celebrate the protestant victory against the Catholics in battle that took place in the 17th century every 12th of July. There is a great deal of political tension on this day if the Unionists march near a Catholic neighborhood.

This semester, I am able to participate in a service learning aspect of my Irish History course. This past week, a classmate and I spoke to two men who are in charge of a community watch program. These two men grew up throughout the Troubles and have seen the worst of the violence here in Belfast. These activist programs, and their leaders, hold a great deal of respect in their given communities. Throughout the Troubles, there was a great amount of distrust of the police force on the Catholic side. To this day, many citizens feel more comfortable approaching these activist organizations than the police when issues arise. While the organizations will suggest going to police depending on the issue (as the trust in the police force has grown stronger in the past decade), they can often resolve the issue more effectively on their own, consulting with the leaders of the other community’s activist groups if need be. One of these men explained a situation in which he helped to defuse a potentially serious clash. There was a Protestant gathering during one of their holidays and out of mere curiosity, a group of Catholics travelled to the other neighborhood to see what was going on. However, the Protestant community perceived the group of Catholics as a threat and were fearful of them. The Protestant community knew to call this man, the leader of the community watch organization, in order to call back the Catholics. He came and they listened to him, and the problem was resolved quickly. However, if police had come to breakup the gathering, there was a chance that it could have escalated from an interaction born of curiosity into a violent clash acting upon instinct and distrust.

While this distrust between communities is very evident, community programs are currently at work that aim to bridge the gap. While the older generations grew up throughout the Troubles and are naturally more distrustful of the other side, there is a substantial effort to unite the youth in workshops and activities in order to work together towards a more united future.

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By kennatim

IMG_6515While I can appreciate a good work of art, I am not much of an art museum person and would not exactly call myself an art aficionado. Rather, my most exciting experience involving art has been witnessing the giant politically charged murals in the cities of Northern Ireland this past week. The tension is still very much in the air, after hot conflict known as “The Troubles” occurred all throughout the area between Catholic unionists and Protestant loyalists from the 1960s to the 1990s. The violence, bombings, and riots tore the area apart, and neighborhoods are still visibly divided.

Last week I went for a 2-day, 1-night trip to Belfast with each member of my CIEE Dublin program. It was incredibly interesting to tour the City Centre, neighborhoods which had experienced so much violence, and even the dry dock where the Titanic was built. What made it even better was that I got to take it in with 32 friends. The most interesting section to me was the murals and the memorials surrounding the Catholic and Protestant neighborhoods where violence took place. They were colorful and diverse in nature: involving memorials for murdered children, hatred towards the other side, people picking up arms, commemorating a bombing, international figures like Nelson Mandela and Martin Luther King Jr., support for Palestine, and general intimidation and territory-marking in what could essentially be considered a turf war.

We spoke in hushed tones during our tour, as the city is still vibrant and the effects still lasting. I could not get over how well done artistically many of the murals were, but also the differences in rhetoric between Catholic and Protestant neighborhood murals. While a Protestant mural might reference a heinous crime by a “republican murder gang,” a Catholic mural referencing the same event might commemorate the “heroic IRA freedom fighters.”

The only thing that could come close in tension to Belfast was Derry. I found Derry (called “Londonderry” by loyalists) to be even edgier, as it was a majority Catholic city in Protestant Northern Ireland. Therefore, the majority that felt repressed by the minority (where the famous “Bloody Sunday” took place) was very active in their speech and action against the British and loyalists. There was no shortage of fiery murals here as well. Included in this post is a picture I took with a pro-British mural, an obvious reference to British dominance and destruction of Catholics in Derry, taken in one of the small Protestant neighborhoods. There were murals of children approaching tanks, men ready for war, of more international peace leaders, etc. Some black & white and some in vivid color, some the size of entire buildings, and some accompanying a memorial garden.

I found Derry to be more interesting than Belfast, mostly because I was given a tour by my distant cousin from Galway, Joe McDonagh, who grew up hearing about new violence occurring in Northern Ireland on the news just about every other day. He gave firsthand insight of the importance of the sites, and helped me to understand how different the environment was less than twenty years ago. I also recently found out that a distant cousin of mine was an MP in English Parliament who fought for the rights of Catholics in Northern Ireland, named Bernadette Devlin.

My two escapes to the North were eye opening. We as young Americans can have such an American-focused view towards the world that we do not realize how much emotion and conflict can consume a country we consider to be well civilized and modern. The many murals in Derry and Belfast helped to give me this insight. I hope it is not the last time I visit the North, and I hope the next time I do, it will be continuing its journey to a peaceful society as it has been for the past two decades.

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By kennatim

The academic culture here at Dublin City University is remarkably different than at GW. What the difference boils down to is an emphasis on independence. Long texts are simply assigned at the beginning of the semester for reading over the course. There is not much class time during the week and when there is, classes are often near empty. There are no pop quizzes, no assigned readings, minimal presentations, and very infrequent class discussion.

I can handle all of that, but my least favorite new academic component is that the professors here are much less approachable than at home. Fortunately, our staff here at my program, CIEE have been wonderful at bridging that gap.

What the entire semester comes down to is that final paper or final exam. That gives me the chills just writing it. But it seems Irish students are less competitive when it comes to grades. That must be why they can actually withstand eight semesters of waiting for four months to see if you actually understand the material or not. The system has its pros: helping students to become independent, allowing them to explore parts of a subject they might be interested in rather than making certain sections compulsory, and really drawing a line between the go-getters and the slackers. I personally enjoy my American experience, with a more in-depth, hands-on approach. The classes I have done the best in include very active professors and courses that involve frequent quizzing and testing to keep you on your toes. I never thought I would say that I wish I had more tests and quizzes, but they say studying in Europe is all about finding your true self, so here we stand.

While I cannot say I have really enjoyed the differences between Irish and American college education, I have chalked it up as a “cultural learning experience.” It will definitely help me in my approach to unconventional learning in the future. And it has definitely led me to truly appreciate how lucky I am to attend such an amazing university with a system I am so familiar with.

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By kennatim

Yes, Belgium. Although I am studying in Dublin, this weekend I visited my cousin and awesome tour guide Megan who lives in Brussels. I have loved every second of my Irish experience, but Brussels has exceeded my expectations outright. Here are my top five spots in Brussels.

Honorable Mention: Maison Antoine is steps away from my cousin's apartment. French fries originated in Belgium and no one does them better. This place is to Belgium as Pat's Cheesesteaks is to Philadelphia.

5. The view from the Military Museum-our first stop in Brussels after the airport was this giant structure in a park that looked interesting. Turned out part of the building was a very interesting military museum. For the extra curious, there was a corner door that lead to some stairs. At the top was one of the most amazing views I have seen of our new city we were set to explore. It also helped that we had a beautiful sunny afternoon, which in Ireland happens as frequently as finding a leprechaun.

4. Musical Instrument Museum- a very interesting musical audio tour exploring the world of instruments. Only two euro for students for an extensive museum! The view at the cafe at the top is also grand. A nice Belgian beer with a view goes quite well with a day full of music!

3. Grand Place- the city square full of tourists with selfie sticks. Very neat to walk around, but what was even better was the walkable streets surrounding this area, the same area you might have seen on postcards from Brussels.

2. Delirium- right at the end of the alleyway near Grand Place is a bar that once set a Guiness World Record for over 2,000 beers offered. With 3 floors and a large Belgian beer selection, the best part of one of Europe's most popular bars is the wide variety of clientele: from older Belgians to international students and everything in between.

1. Random yellow waffle truck- I've heard good things about Belgian waffles. But I never expected an authentic Belgian waffle to be this good. My cousin instructed me to find a truck, as trucks make them fresh, and eat it plain like a true Belgian would. With a gooey inside and crispy outside, consuming the waffle was an otherworldly experience. I don't think I will ever be able to eat an Eggo again.

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By kennatim

I have had a hard time determining how the Irish really feel about Americans. Obviously, being American myself, opinions are probably held back. In my classes, my peers often attack U.S. foreign policy, but in conversation, everyone mentions their cousin on Boston, or wonderful holiday to New York City. It almost seems as if the Irish do not want to like Americans, but with the overwhelming influence of American pop culture here, from Burger King to House of Cards, it is impossible not to.

Being in a modern, international city like Dublin made me figure the consensus I have been witnessing is skewed. I thought that opinion skew would change when I made my way to Cork City. Cork is about three hours by car southwest of Dublin, much more off the beaten path, with rarely an international flight out of the airport. Though still one of Dublin’s larger cities, I considered it to be a better representative of the small town nature of Ireland outside of Dublin. Is location on the southwest coast is a bit remote and many Dubliners poke fun at the distinctive Cork accent. This was going to be real Ireland.

As soon as we got off the bus, I found the Cork accent to sound much different than I was expecting. The international influence was very surprising, and the “Cork accent” to me was any accent that did not sound Irish. I totally underestimated the cosmopolitan nature of the city. We met some Eastern European friends, stayed in an Airbnb with a Portuguese woman and German man, and ate at a restaurant owned by Brazilians. By the way, the food in what I thought was a quaint little Irish town made Dublin look like my middle school cafeteria.

We had a great time exploring churches, the waterfront, the nightlife, and even got a chance to kiss the Blarney Stone at Blarney Castle. I learned that Ireland is truly a modern, living, breathing organism with a large variety of people and places that might not necessarily agree on anything, let alone their views on Americans. I have never felt uncomfortable, and with my red, white, and blue backpack I purchased here (getting ridiculed by my American friends, no doubt), that is saying a lot. So if you are looking for an international experience, or just looking for really good Brazilian food, look no further than County Cork.

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By kennatim

I have been eating a lot more fish here in Dublin. I have also been trying to do more swim workouts than usual. One of my goals in my study abroad experience has been to try new things and forge new habits. Most of the time, that involves immersing myself in some type of Irish culture. Swimming and fish are not exactly tied to Gaelic history, but nevertheless, engaging in different activities is overall what I came here for. That is why, when I received an out-of-the-blue, random email inviting me to teach retirees how to use computers, I was immediately interested.

The “Intergenerational Learning Programme” here at Dublin City University is a program that invites retirees (or “pensioners”) from the area to come to campus and receive free tutoring from students in anything from the basics of using a computer to how to trace your genealogy or write music using one. The program is sponsored by the Irish government and originated as a scheme to get older people to complete government services using the Internet.

I attended a short training session in our cozy classroom of nine PCs, which explained how many learners are on different levels of Internet proficiency. The volunteer coordinator established a schedule and explained the process. I have volunteer experience working with children, but never with adults. I was eager and a little nervous for the opportunity.

On our first day, we were matched with either one or two learners for the next four weeks. I was paired with two very nice ladies named Maura and Marie. They were friendly and eager to learn. Throughout our two hours, I taught them the bare basics: from turning the computer on, all the way to how to Google, use multiple tabs in Google Chrome, and save a Word document. Throughout the session, it was great to frequently hear them exclaim, “Oh, I always wanted to do that but didn’t know how!”

We talked about America and they gave me their recommendations on what to do while in Ireland. It amazed me how much we take for granted when using a computer: for example, when I asked them to go to the start menu, they asked where it was. They were here to learn, and I realized only someone who grew up on computers could know these things like second nature. It was a great practice of patience and understanding.

After leading a quick final review session, I promised we could work on using their personal laptops next week. They had very kind words about me for the volunteer coordinator, and remained very appreciative and eager to learn until the end. I knew it would feel good to help people out, but I had no idea that, as they say in Ireland, it would be such great craic (fun). I am happy that I continue to take the leap into trying new things because I have not had one regrettable experience yet. I am looking forward to my next seven sessions with Maura and Marie and watching them progress into computer wizards!

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By sjm510

From my time here, I’ve realized there’s a lot that the Irish and Americans can learn from one another. To begin, the US could most certainly learn from Ireland’s advanced recycling system. I’m still amazed that plastic film, plastic bags, styrofoam, and more can all be recycled together here. My involvement with Green GW inspired me to get involved here with UCD’s Environmental Society, Eco Soc. Eco Soc is only a year old, possibly because there are already such good environmental practices in place and not as much demand for an advocacy group like there was at GW. Green GW is 9 years old in comparison. Eco Soc has some really strong goals in place such as to participate in the Green Campus Programme, which encourages a partnership approach to environmental education, management, and action in third level institutions. While brainstorming ideas of how to bring sustainability to campus, they were very receptive to hearing about what worked with Green GW, such as encouraging students to sell and trade used items, trashion show, online surveys, working with administrators, etc. I look forward to staying involved with this group and hopefully helping them to implement strategies that worked well at GW.

I also recently got involved with UCD’s chapter of Engineers Without Borders. I’ve been involved with EWB at GW for the past year and find the differences between the two chapters interesting. At GW, most of what EWB does is in preparation for our compost latrine project in El Salvador. At UCD, they hope to soon set up a similar project. For now, however, they are focused on hosting workshops and volunteering events as a way to get students interested in sustainable development. I participated in their 3D printing workshop as well as a workshop held by Concern Worldwide. I look forward to imparting some ideas that worked well at GW onto UCD’s chapter and continuing to learn from them as well.

Finally, I also participated in a “soup run” this past week where a group of UCD students got together and walked around the streets of Dublin, offering food and tea to the homeless. I’ve never participated in something like it before, but it was an eye opening experience. Towards the end of the night, most of the homeless we approached let us know that we were the fourth or fifth soup run that had come through just that night. I know similar organizations exist in the United States, but I think it’s yet another show of the friendly nature and kind heartedness of the Irish people to see 20+ students in just our group alone giving up three hours of their night nearly every night to help others.

I’m excited to keep learning from the Irish as well as share some ideas of my own from back home. It’s a really unique opportunity to experience first hand the differences in student organizations at the two schools and I’m lucky to be in a position where I can offer guidance both to UCD organizations based on what has worked well at GW and to once I return home, to GW organizations based on what worked well at UCD.

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