clairemac93 – Page 2 – GW Blogs from Abroad

Johannesburg

AdminOctober 22, 2014December 14, 2018

Unlike during my previous time living abroad, this time around I’ve been content to stay around the area of Stellenbosch more than travel around the region. Some of this is to do with mullah, but a lot of it has to deal with simply liking the area I’m in. However, something I also like a lot are my friends here- and one of my closest asked me to come stay with her in Johannesburg when the term ended. And if you know anything about me and my way of traveling, it’s that I’ll take someones home and a local guide over a hostel or hotel any day.

But that doesn’t come without sacrifice. In the small capacity in which I thought about my trip, I never ventured a guess at how long the car ride would be. Similarly, when I was told to be ready at 4am in the morning to depart, I failed to ask myself why anyone would want to leave that early. I think I might of even told myself at some point that my friend was simply a hardcore morning person. This was all in a scheme of lying to myself as to avoid admitting that it takes 16-18 hours to drive to Johannesburg. Additionally, what lies in-between Stellenbosch and Johannesburg is an abundance of nothingness, like driving 18 hours through the state of Ohio (for those of you who have had the absolutely thrilling experience of doing so). So much nothing, that if South Africa could export nothing, it would be the world leader in nothingness. It was to the point that I would point out when I saw a tree, or utter sentences like, “Hey, that’s a cool hill”. Nothing.

Johannesburg, on the other hand, would never be described in terms of nothingness. With large skyscrapers and huge shiny billboards, fancy cars, and fancier people driving these cars, its contrast to Cape Town did not go unnoticed. It’s perfectly cosmopolitan, and yet manages to mix an African flavor- in fashion, music, and food. Imagine a woman wearing a traditional African headdress and Dolce and Gabbana. That’s Joburg.

I’ll start off with those things I did which I would recommend, as I know Johannesburg is a fairly popular tourist destination. I’d recommend hitting up Oriental Plaza. It’s full of traditional Indian food and shops, and is a good place to stop and explore. We also had a picnic at the Botanical Gardens, which has a natural waterfall and hiking trails. I would then suggest the Cradle of Humankind, which is possibly the coolest museum I’ve ever gone to- with games to play and even an indoor boat ride, and is a testament to where humankind originally started. I would also hit up the Neighborgoods Market on Saturday mornings for some delicious local food, live music, and inspiring people watching (I saw three year olds hipper than I’ll ever be!). Surprisingly what I wouldn’t recommend would be the Apartheid Museum. For a museum so important to this country’s history, its exhibits are poorly up kept.

The most memorable part of my trip was visiting South Africa’s most famous township, Soweto, or South Western Townships. After a scarring experience visiting Gugulethu, a township outside of Cape Town, in a huge bus where it felt more like visiting a zoo than experiencing a lifestyle, my friends and I made sure to visit Soweto with as much respect as possible. We found a local woman, Angie, whose a retiree (or pensioner, as South Africans call them) locally from the township making some extra money by showing visitors around Soweto on foot. Set off as just my friends and her, we spent morning til evening walking the streets, meeting her neighbors, riding from district to district via mini-taxi-bus, and still seeing the tourist sights but in what I felt was a more intimate way. Its important for me to show my respect in whatever way I can. I think to sit on a tour bus of places like this make it seem as if you are afraid of the population outside the bus- that you want to see the sights, take your pictures, and climb back in as though Africa is going to eat you alive if you stay too long. But to walk next to people, to buy a meal at a local shack instead of a touristy restaurant, to sit in a mini-taxi-bus crammed next to strangers instead of taking a taxi or renting a car, that’s showing respectful curiosity. And why visit if you aren’t truly curious?

Anyhow, during the day I was able to see where the Soweto Uprisings took place, Nelson Mandela’s home, Desmond Tutu’s home, and even Winnie Mandela’s current home, of which I could hear her television on. I visited a local daycare and saw Freedom Square.

All around, the trip was amazing. Alongside seeing some of what Johannesburg has to offer, I got to stay at the home of my friend’s family, eat homemade food, and sleep in a good bed. For that, I can be nothing short of thankful.

The Tim Noakes Diet

AdminOctober 13, 2014December 14, 2018

By clairemac93

I’m rather surprised that the subject of Tim Noakes would inspire me to write a blog entry. However, ever since I heard of the diet that Tim Noakes advertises I have been flabbergasted by how many people follow his plan here in South Africa.

The Tim Noakes diet entails eating no sugar, no carbs, but having a high protein-high fat diet. The people advertising the diet claim that new studies have shown no association between such a diet and things like high cholesterol or heart problems. Coming from a Western country, the diet seems nuts. I’ve seen TV advertisements here where they create a typically Tim Noakes meal in which butter on butter on butter is added and grease in encouraged. One thinks, “Who would actually follow this?”

Well, apparently a lot of people. In school, it seems as though everyone’s parents or they themselves are following this diet. Added to this, they are having results of massive weight loss. These success stories, like in the days of the Atkins diet, only spur more people to join.

It’s an appropriate diet choice for South Africans. South Africans love their meat, especially red meat, and tend to look at all vegetarians with a look of shocked curiosity. In fact, I know many South Africans who don’t consider it a meal unless there is meat on the plate.

There is also a huge market for dried meats, or biltong, as it’s called here, as well as dried fruits. This is out of the fact that in many places on the African continent, there is no electricity or refrigeration available. As such, they tend to dry most of their fruits and meats to reduce the flies and potential of spoiling. This became such a staple that even now that there’s refrigeration available- to some, dried fruits and meat are still a standard snack.

Anyhow, although it seems like a small cultural phenomenon, the diet of Tim Noakes is fascinating to me as it not only is catered specially to a South African audience, but is only an option for those who can choose what to eat and what not to eat- meaning predominantly whites. Meat is, all over the world, a luxury good, and most sugary items and processed foods are the staples of the lower income. A diet based purely off of vegetables and fruits, as well as meat and fat, is the most expensive dietary option that could be chosen here.

Though I myself would never start the diet, I’m curious to see whether the fad lives on and what the results will be. Truly shows a difference from the western mindset on diets!

The Idea of Learned Consumption

AdminOctober 6, 2014December 17, 2018

By clairemac93

In skyping with my parents tonight, I finally put to words something that has been building within me since I arrived in South Africa last January. It was under the context of, with less than two months to go here, what will potentially give me reverse culture shock when I return to the United States. Though there are expected potential culture shocks such as the proportion of black people to white, the presence of interracial couples, or lack of intimate daily contact with extreme poverty, the biggest issue I can see myself facing is the idea of consumption and the idea of deserved consumption.

I dealt with this in Germany to an extent too. You walk in a grocery store, and whereas in America there might be 20 cereal brands to choose from (this is a conservative guess) in Germany there would be 2-3. This was not thought of as abnormal, as “how complicated can cereal get?” Additionally, Germans just really like musli, so there’s that. Here in South Africa it is something similar. Though South Africa is certainly much more developed than I think the Western world gives them credit for, the average yearly income being $1,164 (as opposed to $60,526 in the States) does not inspire consumerism for the sake of consumerism. As such, at the grocery store there are a couple options for each item. Nothing deprivational, just food. You can find things in season, and you can suck it up when they aren’t. The most purchased good food-wise is a loaf of white bread, as for many that alone serves as nutrition for the coming day.

So in evaluating what might shock me in coming home, I realized that pure consumption- much of it for consumptions sake- will be the hardest to witness coming home. The idea in the United States that every product must be exactly personalized to every preference and need- gluten free, low fat, low sugar, high fiber- is slightly ridiculous after spending time here. We have grown up to believe that these products which we like, these things that we regularly buy, are parts of our very character- as if without these items we, as a person, will cease to be 100% us. We tie our personality to our product choices, and feel deprived when those products are no longer offered. We import for year-round fruits and vegetables, as to prevent ever being “deprived” of these foods we love. We buy that new product simply because we’ve never seen it on the shelf before. We pack our kids lunches with the snacks that have been branded to them or serve them Spongebob Mac n’ Cheese because they believe it tastes better when its shaped like him—I myself am guilty of this specifically!

But the problem I have is not in our desire to consume, but in our feelings of deprivation. We, in reality, require very little to survive. We do not specifically need those avocados. If that store went out of business, I would find other clothes. If my favorite cereal went off the shelves, I will find something else to eat. However I know many who get truly upset at the thought of these products disappearing. We are taught to believe that lack of choice is against human expression, but much of the difference in products we consume are small and inconsequential- only to the benefit of the producer/marketer for the product.

In thinking of home I can already see the long lines of items on shelves at grocery stores, and I can feel a sense of confusion of why its all necessary. If more choices were the key to happiness or health, America would be the happiest healthiest place on earth. But it’s not. So why do we think all the hoopla is necessary? Is it a distraction? Are our lives, down to every product we eat, meant to be so personalized? And what does this constant personalization teach our citizens about what they deserve and what is necessary for living? Does it make any difference?

I don’t know. What I know is that in comparing myself to the average South African here I am happy to eat what is provided, and having not been exposed to the choices that are provided in the U.S., many here are happy with a smaller amount of choices and never stop to ask why there aren’t more. Though a couple of years ago there was a phenomenon of youth burning money and cars to show they “didn’t need it” as to indicate wealth, on the whole I find South Africans much less apt to shamelessly display wealth and much less apt to ask for more. This is humbling. However, my stepmom once asked me, “If America is perfectly capable of providing these products and importing goods in season, why shouldn’t they?” And aside from the environmental ramifications of the transportation of these goods, I still don’t have an answer. In this way, my culture shock will be more of confusion, than anything, about how I feel about the contrast between the two countries and how they define what they need.

Making Friends: A How-To Guide

AdminSeptember 29, 2014December 17, 2018

By clairemac93

When I came to GW as a freshman, I had switched schools every year since I was 13. In fact, coming back to GW for my sophomore year was as much of a foreign concept to me as starting at a new school is for most people. In each new location- Pennsylvania, South Carolina, Germany, and elsewhere, I faced that first day of school and the acquisition of friends with a deep breath, a lot of humility, a sometimes forced sense of humor, as well as walking in the doors with the bar set low.

Doing this abroad takes that much more hutzpah, as in the chaos that is cultural differences and language changes, you sometimes find yourself going mute. I once was quoted that I felt like Ariel from the Little Mermaid abroad, where in exchange for this wonderful experience I lost my voice. But it’s no sob story, rather just a phase in the cultural adjustment pattern of living abroad. Due to my many start-overs in new places, I’d like to suggest some tips for becoming integrated into a new community and how to make friends abroad.

Join organizations, but only ones you actually care about: There is an emphasis on the latter part of this statement, “only the ones you actually care about”. Though I agree that, especially abroad, its good to try new things and go wherever there are people to meet, I also know that I get along better with people who have common interests. I’m also not the best version of myself if I’m doing something I think is a waste of time or not my jam.
Invite people, don’t expect to be invited: I know, it sucks when despite you hitting it off with classmates- you seem to never actually be invited to things. You only hear about them after-the-fact. I also know that inviting yourself to things is both uncomfortable and unsustainable. Rather, instead, invite people. Going to a class at the gym? Invite a friend from class to go with you. Friends on a budget? Host a dinner at your dorm. Want to see a tourist attraction? Invite a local instead of a fellow foreigner. The worst people can say is no, and by way of experience, that “no” rarely happens.
Don’t travel in large groups of Americans: I love me some America, but I’ll be honest in saying that many drop the ball in meeting locals via the simple mistake of moving in large groups of Americans. You are completely unapproachable in a group, and much more approachable on your own. Additionally, recognizing staying among Americans as a crutch of sorts, or a safety blanket, might help you branch out on your own. Why travel if you create your own America abroad?
Capitalize off of your foreignness: I’m not saying you should buy a megaphone and sing the national anthem in the streets (in fact, avoid that very thing) but do let people know you’re interested in learning the culture and ask them to show you what they like most about their own countries. Remind people that you’re only around for a short time. Additionally, find locals who are interested in travel, international relations, or who have gone abroad themselves. They will be the most likely to want to pay it forward and take you under their wing.
Start early: What a shame it is to hit it off with someone only to find yourself with a few weeks to go of the program. Rather, reach out right away, join things immediately upon arriving, and don’t wait until you lose momentum later in the semester/year.
Don’t get discouraged and reach out if necessary: An unfamiliar culture may mean that you just don’t hit it off as easily with people as back home, don’t quite understand their humor, or maybe have less in common. Don’t give up. It’s a hard process to find friends, and it’s the easier option to just settle on foreign friends. But making local friends is a huge part of why you’re abroad, and how you can both learn about the country and teach about your own. So keep trying! Keep putting yourself out there. However, if things start to feel lonely- reach out. Call someone for coffee, go to the movies, skype with a friend back home. Just because you’re struggling to make friends doesn’t entail forced social deprivation.

Hopefully some of these tips are helpful. It is no easy process making local friends, but I think its just as much a part of studying abroad and sightseeing and learning the language. I was lucky enough to make my two best friends during my first couple weeks here through our common interest in German language. See here:

Navigating in Cape Town

AdminSeptember 12, 2014December 14, 2018

By clairemac93

I learned through growing up in a small town in Pennsylvania that if you wanted to go somewhere, it was going to take a lot of creative energy to do so. It was my first introduction to transportation issues, and one that lasted quite a long time until I got my driver’s license and a car half way through my last year in high school. As such, the way to get around in a place is one of the first things I notice.

In Stellenbosch there isn’t much to share. Stellenbosch is out on its own- about an hour outside of Cape Town. Within the town, almost everything is walkable and the streets are friendly. Even at night I have had no problems walking home from any distance. You rarely, if ever, see a taxi here. Though I know they exist, I’ve never seen one. Instead, as is the case all over South Africa and more accurately speaking- all over Africa, they take the mini-buses.

Mini-buses are vans of about 14 spots on a packed day, which have specific routes they go on. In some places, you have a hand signal that you stand on the street with to show which route you’re looking for. Other places, such as in Cape Town, you either catch it at the mini-bus station, in which case the route is marked, or you stand on the street and the mini-bus wingmen scream out where they’re going. If you want to get in, you holler. When I say though, that there is a “specific route”, I mean only that there is a general direction they are going. Once on the bus, you tell the wingman to the driver (he’s the one who opens and shuts the door, takes money, arranges seating, and screams out of the bus as to let the driver concentrate on driving) where you want to stop at. Additionally, this isn’t a taxi, so cross streets just aren’t what they want to hear. Rather tell them, for example, to stop outside the Shoprite near the KFC in a certain area of town. They drive these streets every day, so they’ll know where you mean.

I, personally, love the mini-buses. This is for a couple of reasons. Firstly, speaking from a college student perspective, it’s cheap. A ride of 20 minutes across the city will cost you about R8, that’s US 0.80. This obviously depends on which city you’re in but nonetheless the trip will never cost you much more than a dollar. Secondly, it’s safer than a cab. Cab drivers here are skeevy, to put the most accurate adjective to it. They don’t run on meters, which they don’t do on purpose as to try to rip off unsuspecting tourists or to make up excuses as to why the fare has risen. You have to haggle almost every time you get into a cab, and even then things go wrong. Thirdly, the mini-bus is the most South African way to get around. One of my proudest moments upon getting here was my first ride in the mini-bus, crunched in among 13 locals, speeding across the streets of Cape Town. Lastly, it prevents you from being taken advantage of. Mini-buses don’t leave the station until full most of the time. This is good for you as a tourist, as if anything happens, 13 people just saw it. For example, I was once told a different fare than the rest of the mini-bus, being an obvious foreigner, and the entire bus went into uproar. “Unacceptable”, they said, “Everyone pays the same price”.

The second form of transportation here which is less frequented but still pivotal to the functioning of a work week, is the train. Now, having lived in Germany before, I had to lower my expectations a bit with the train. Germany was exceptional, and to this day I haven’t seen anything as efficient, or dare I say, shiny. South African trains may be a bit more like Septa in the United States. Rickety and outdated, but nonetheless used, these trains are busiest around 7am and 4-5pm. Though many would suggest to you to never take the train due to random gang activity or muggings, I’ve never had an issue. Like the mini-bus, trains are full of people. I take third class instead of first as to increase the amount of people around me. It costs about R11 to go the hour to Cape Town, about US 1.10. As stated, the trains don’t have a great reputation. No one rides them after dark. In fact, you’ll see them sometimes speed past at night and look through the windows to not see one human soul sitting in them. This is a shame, as sometimes the fear of violence breeds violence itself. Or it just breeds a rather inefficient way to run a train system.

Aside from the train and mini-bus, it’s an even mix between driving and walking. When I was in Johannesburg, at the end of a work day you would see huge throngs of people walking home to the townships from various parts of the city. There are deep paths made by many feet before you to wherever you want to go. It’s difficult to tell how many people actually have cars, as living in Stellenbosch is not representative of the greater population. However, considering how spaced out South Africa is, a car could be a beneficial thing to have.

As far as further distances, like Europe- South Africa has domestic airlines like Mango, which offer cheap flights across the country. This is because many people commute for work between Cape Town and Johannesburg. You can also take commuter buses. In fact, Greyhound is in South Africa. Though local travel is quite cheap, flights within South Africa and especially between African countries are incredibly expensive. I believe it’s because less people are using them, and those using them are usually quite wealthy, meaning prices aren’t driven down by higher demand. This means little country hopping like you would do elsewhere but easy travel within the country! I encourage that if you’re ever in South Africa to use the transportation that the locals use. It’s a great way to meet people, and more importantly, to show respect that you are open to seeing, even in the little ways, life from their perspective.

South African Markets

AdminAugust 29, 2014December 17, 2018

You find yourself with nothing to do on a Saturday morning, but the weather is beautiful. What to do?

Well among the typical South African answers of hiking a mountain, going biking, or any variety of outdoors activities [South Africans love the outdoors], a staple of a weekend morning is going to the market. Now when I share this with friends back home, I can just see their thoughts resorting to the select pictures of far-away markets they may have seen in some National Geographic issue. As such, I want you to take whatever market you are imagining, and upgrade it.

South Africa has markets like what you’re imagining- wooden crates full of fresh fruits and veggies, staples for a week of cooking, maybe even something hot and cheap to eat. However, what few may imagine is that South Africa has some of the most beautiful, diverse, and lively markets out there. Markets like the Neighborgoods Market, which exists in both Johannesburg and Cape Town, sell locally made goods from upscale jewelry to different spreads to fudge to Rooibos flavored beer and beyond. It’s the type of place that you can celebrate the weekend by strolling with friends, tasting tidbits of everything, splurging on something you probably don’t need but must have, and listen to live music. It is, by far, my favorite way to spend a weekend morning and gives you a nice chance to celebrate small businesses and local flavors.

Here in Stellenbosch, despite being a small town, we too have our markets to offer. One being the Stellenbosch Slow Market, and the other being the Route 44 Market. Both, unsurprisingly, are hosted at vineyards, as Stellenbosch is in the heart of South African wine country.

saturday market 3 — Checking out the delicious food

True to form, the markets are, though joyful, also a reminder of wealth inequality within the country. Though the prices of goods may not seem high for a Western visitor, or a wealthy white South African, they are not the “place to be” so-to-say for the normal South African citizen. If the cost of your meal at the market is R60 (about $6) or the sweater you buy is R150 ($15) and you are paid the South African minimum wage of R10- that’s 1 U.S. Dollar an hour, these markets just aren’t feasible to visit, nor do they supply the types of goods that you’re looking for. As such, and perhaps this is the case too of Farmer’s Markets in the United States, these markets attract a specific section of the population and though fun, are only representative of the more upscale version of the market.

However, markets of a different kind are a staple nonetheless. I’ve gone to township markets where everyone from grandparents to children are playing and eating. In fact, it was there that I first tried a “smiley” which is a barbequed sheep’s head. I’ve also been to markets in Johannesburg that sell locally grown staple foods and working-man’s food for R2 ($0.25). No matter what market you attend, you will find something adventurous to eat, a true taste of the country, and friendly locals who will be glad to have you there. So if you ever have the chance in any country, my biggest suggestion is to find the markets!

Discovering Capetonian Music

AdminAugust 22, 2014December 14, 2018

By clairemac93

It’s funny how when you’re abroad, you realize that once familiar things are actually of foreign origin. Case in point- the band Goldfish. I’ve been listening to Goldfish for years in the States, assuming they were some West Coast phenomenon or just someone’s weird yet awesome basement creation. Turns out, to my astonishment, that the band Goldfish hails from Cape Town. I was half shocked that this band had made an influence all the way across the world, and half disappointed that I had not discovered a diamond in the rough, but conversely a band quite established in South Africa.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CAYltftiBwk

In a way, it hardly surprises me that Goldfish would come from the Western Cape. Though kwaito music is the most popular music genre by numbers, house music or DJ-remixes are much more popular in the Western Cape and among the younger generation. Pretty much anything you can fist pump to is of preference to my fellow students at Stellenbosch as well as many in Cape Town. I like Goldfish because they’re upbeat and different from most bands that are popular these days. Additionally, perhaps inspired by the band the Gorillaz, they use self-created animations in almost all of their music videos. If you can, check out their old music- including songs like Hold Tight or Soundtracks and Comebacks which ties in a lot more jazzy-feels than their current music!

A second band which is worth a listen, also hailing from Cape Town, is Nomadic Orchestra. I was lucky enough during my recent trip to Johannesburg to be able to see them at Kitchener’s in downtown (similar to the Black Cat, for my Washington readers). They were by far the best band I've seen perform live. They’re comprised of a guitarist, tuba player, drummer, saxophonist, and trumpet player. Their music is almost entirely instrumental and has a slight middle-eastern influence. Check ‘em out!

A New Semester

AdminAugust 12, 2014

quad — The Quad at the University of Stellenbosch

It’s hard to explain how it feels to have just finished the first week of my second semester here at Stellenbosch University. After a long semester break, of which I stayed in town to save money and explore, I was happy to see the town slowly fill back up again with excited students greeting each other and catching up. For us here in South Africa, our academic year runs from January-December, with this semester being the second of the two.

South Africa has the top three universities on the continent- University of Cape Town, University of Pretoria, and the University of Stellenbosch (where I attend) as well as seven of the top 11 universities in Africa. The closest top tier universities are in places like Nigeria and Egypt. As such, students from Southern Africa flock here for their studies, making for a diverse population of students from places like Namibia, Botswana, and Lesotho, as well as South Africa. This being said, both the University of Stellenbosch and University of Cape Town are predominantly white- with 68.5% of Stellenbosch and 38.6% at UCT. Many of the universities have historical racial relationships, as universities such as the University of Witwatersrand, or Wits as they call it, was created for black students to study at, University of Western Cape was for only coloured students (mixed-race), while universities like Stellenbosch only admitted white students.

Seeing as policies regarding which racial groups could apply to which colleges only changed in the last several decades, the university’s demographics remain largely the same nowadays. However, more and more non-white students are attending college here every year.

Students doing the same major at university take a set sequence of classes each semester and each year. This makes it a little difficult for someone coming from the looser American system, in which I can take a second year course, fourth year course, general education requirement, and an elective all within one semester. Additionally, different degrees take different amounts of years, so college is not considered a 4-year process, but rather dependent upon degree (no surprise here- science degrees take longer than humanity degrees). Seeing as the South African university system was set up by their lovely colonizer, England, schools concentrate on lateral learning as opposed to rote memorization- something I appreciate coming from a system which many times focuses on regurgitation rather than engrained knowledge.

Unfortunately, South Africa- like many developing countries, has a problem with “brain drain”. With only 12 of every 100 high schoolers in ZA qualifying for university, and university drop-outs outnumbering graduates, there is a lack of highly skilled labor in South Africa. Even still, those who are educated rarely remain in the country, opting instead to work in places like the UK or various places in the developed world. In an interesting read by Business Future’s in 2010, it is stated “The African human resource pool is continuously depleted as the educated choose to emigrate and apply their skills abroad. It is estimated that since 1990, some 20,000 skilled professionals have been leaving Africa on an annual basis, depriving the continent of the doctors, nurses, teachers, and engineers it needs to break the cycle of poverty and under-development” (Roux 2010). It sort of connects ZA having such good universities and yet poor leadership, eh?

The bibliotek at the University of Stellenbosch

This being said, universities are universities, and college kids are the same everywhere. Between hazing first-year students, to professors who seem to have it out for you, to the library having an exponential population spike just before exams- it’s really not so different than back home. For me, it’s mind-blowing that one semester here has already come and gone, but I am so happy with how it turned out. My first semester was full of exploring cities, making friends, and attending events ranging from competing in a cooking competition to a masquerade ball at the student theatre. Based on this week, I am confident that my second semester will be no different!