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By juliaraewagner

As the fifth week in Buenos Aires rolled around and we began to wrap up our end-of-semester lessons, our country coordinator led us through an activity that I found really helpful in "reading" the city. She split us into groups and asked that we each identify four elements of the city, its strengths, weaknesses, opportunities, and threats. Many people have probably heard of this activity as the SWOT exercise and may have used in professional or team-building situations. In our context of urban planning, the exercise helped us to review what we'd studied this semester, but also revealed some interesting quandaries in relation to the city.

Buenos Aires' strengths were obvious. The city has a strong downtown, cheap transportation, a highly educated population, and strong political involvement. We soon noticed, however, that many of these benefits also lead to some issues of their own. For one, the strong downtown that has grown up around the Plaza de Mayo means insane traffic congestion. It is not uncommon to sit on a bus for more than an hour when coming in from downtown. Furthermore, the city lacks a strong road network that runs along the outskirts of the city; most roads leading from North to South run straight through downtown, only adding to the congestion. This has led to a severe division between North and South halves of the city, which is not only a physical, but cultural.

Though few would claim that the portenos' strong political involvement is a weakness, or even a threat, the framework upon which this involvement stands is deteriorating and is prone to collapse. Of the many parties that comprise the political representation in the country, most of these consider themselves "Peronists." Peronism is a political movement that takes its underlying values from the Peron's, perhaps the most popular political figures in all of Argentine history. Juan Peron served as the country's first populist president, and his wife, Eva Peron, won the hearts of the masses. Today, however, Peronism is a blanket statement, that nearly every politician claims in order to gain popular support, though it doesn't necessarily mean that he carries popular sentiment. Many Argentinians claim that this label allows politicians to say they represent one thing, while their policies say another.

Another point of contention in our discussion was the villas, the infamous informal settlements that run along the outskirts of the city. Many have labeled these settlements as a threat to the city. They are known as hotbeds for crime, the black market, and illegal immigrants. Still, further investigations into the villas have revealed that property values are worth the same as some of the most posh neighborhoods in the city. Many legal immigrants as well as people moving in from the outer provinces of Argentina populate these areas because a municipal law requires people lacking strong familial connections in the city from renting their own property. Furthermore, the villas each support their own micro-economies, which subsist despite their lack of formal recognition. Under this light, the villas seem less like a threat and more like an opportunity for Buenos Aires to expand and integrate these densly urbanized areas.

It is discussions like these that have propelled my classes these past four months. Deciphering the strengths, weaknesses, threats, and opportunities in these cities has been incredibly informative and eye-opening. Nothing is ever as simple as it appears at face value, but that makes this field of study vibrant and interesting. I will carry this with me as I continue to "read" more cities.

By juliaraewagner

During this past year abroad, I've had to navigate a solid lifetime's worth of awkward conversations with host families as well as other people who I've met regarding my perceptions of their countries. When this question rolls into conversation, I usually respond with some iteration of the following:

"Oh I just love the people here in [insert country name here]. And the [insert popular national dish here] is so great too!"

It's not for lack of wonderful things in each country that propels me to give this bland response; it's just that developing an understanding for a place takes a lot of time and reflection. I was talking to my homestay brother the other day, however, and he called me out on my typical PC response, saying, "No, really. Why do you even like it here in Buenos Aires?"

I stuttered for a moment, collecting my thoughts. I had never really been forced to articulate what I find so magical about this city, but I'm glad that my host brother prodded me. The following was my response:

"I love the way that every woman here whether 16 or 76 commits to wearing platform shoes because she is not afraid of expressing herself.

I love the pink light that shines on the city in the late afternoon and how it makes the buildings pop in contrast with one another.

I love that while the city is always bustling, people always take enough time to  sit down in a cafe to drink their cup of coffee, rather than carrying it out into the street.

I love how everyone grows gardens on their balconies.

I love how people will take their 3 year olds out to dinner at midnight.

I love how people protest in the streets every single day, if for no other reason than just because they have the political freedom to do so.

I love how graffiti is legal and how every spare wall is painted with a beautiful mural.

I love that, if you look hard enough, you can find an immigrant from almost any country in the world.

I love that the city is devoted to its artists and even subsidizes many cultural events, making them easily accessible with my student budget.

I love that of all the traditions that they've stolen from their Italian immigrant population, they've really managed to get gelato right.

I love that everyone from the Pope to the President addresses people with the word 'che'."

If it had been any other person, I think my response would have been too much information, but as an Argentine, my host brother had a poetic appreciation for it. He smiled and said, "that's the answer I was looking for."

After this yearlong adventure, I am booked to return home in exactly one week from today. In addition to a suitcase full of souvenirs, an SD card of photos, and a year's worth of memories, I hope to carry with me the small beauties of Buenos Aires. I only hope that I can integrate their obsession for art, their staunch insistence for expression, and their appreciation for taking time for small moments of the day.

 

It's been a beautiful week here in Buenos Aires, Argentina. I have enjoyed getting settled back into the city that I came to love after spending a whole semester here last year with the GW Latin America exhange program.

It has been fascinating to see the city in a whole new light. Last semester, I studied at a local university, taking classes in their International Affairs department, and this semester, I've been taking courses on the politics, planning and culture of cities in a classroom with 32 other students from US universities. As such, the dynamics and the structures of these two classrooms have been distinct and each has had its pluses and minuses.

For instance, learning in an Argentine classroom gave me a very clear understanding of the nuances of the culture. The information that I heard was not tailored to me as the audience, but rather was the unbridled Argentine perspective. One of my most rewarding classes last semester was on the history of the Americas, in which one of the sections was a history of the US. It was fascinating to hear how a foreigner interpreted the notable moments of US history. My professor had a lot to say about racsim in the US; he also thought that Obama was pretty WASP-y.  Additionally, it was also the first time I was expected to memorize all of the US presidents.

This semester, my classroom has been much more experience-oriented. Our facilitators have given us incredible access to academics, professionals, and locals in all aspects of the city. Our most recent adventure included exploring the city's hidden wholesale district, Once, where the owners of all the city's posh boutiques purchase their base materials. Not only is it a great place to shop for some bargains, it has a lot to say about the immigrant culture of Argentina. Like the US, this country has been a landing point for immigrants from all over the city for centuries.   Some of the most recent waves have settled in Once, to sell their wares in the stores and on the streets. In under an hour and within a 5 block radius, our group was able to interview people from Peru, Bolivia, Ghana, Senegal, Ukrain, Israel, and more. I was very excited to use some of my Wolof greetings that I'd learned during my stay in Senegal. And here I thought I'd never be able to use Wolof again!

Needless to say, its been a year full of distinctive and unexpected learning experiences. Often times, the most telling lessons have appeared between the lines of my textbook lessons or even outside of the classroom. I look forward to brining these little lessons back and applying them during my last year at GW!

By juliaraewagner

Today concludes the end of my first full week with the IHP Cities program. We have been prepping for our 3 month journey through India, Senegal, and Argentina with an orientation in New York City. We have already hit the ground running, examining the biggest questions in urban planning happening in our country's most vibrant city.

This week, most of our work was based out of the Chelsea neighborhood, which is home to one of the most diverse communities in New York City. An old manufacturing neighborhood, Chelsea has transformed into a mecca of art galleries and new urban design. Starting in the 1990's, it became the home of NYC's gay community. Today, it is one of the most trendy spots for the wealthy to settle into their multi-million dollar town homes. Meanwhile, Chelsea serves as a home to the older manufacturing communities and residents of the long-standing public housing facilities on 26th Street. Thus, the nieghborhood is a bustling mish mash of  personalities and privalege.

Meanwhile, our group has been living at a hostel in Long Island City, Queens, a world away from our classroom in Chelsea. The site is also an old manufacturing center, but has not yet been touched by development or gentrification. Many believe, however, that the neighborhood is set to change in the coming years. MoMa has already established a satellite museum here, and a developer has recently kicked out longstanding graffiti cultural center, Five Pointz, as he prepares to develop and sell the space. Change is most definitely on the horizon for LIC.

We have also used New York to help us prepare for our travels in the coming months. Earlier this week, we tested out Indian, Senegalese, and Argentine restaurants so that we could have an idea of the foods we would be experiencing later on. I ordered the baked fish at the Senegalese restaurant and recieved a plate piled high with a huge fish, head and tail and all. Its going to be an interesting semester! It is truly amazing that this diverse city has been able  supply us with such a rich backdrop in urban planning in the world today. As we continue to study how cities work across the world, I look forward to comparing these cities with New York and DC back at home.

By juliaraewagner

As I sit here, I am one day away from departing on a tri-part adventure to India, Senegal, and Argentina to study urban planning with the SIT-International Honors Program, and to be honest, I have yet to start packing. Its not that I'm a disorganized person or not excited to set off; I've been working on getting my visas in order for the past six months. My unpreparedness stems from the fact that I simply do not know what to expect! 

I spent last summer and fall semesters abroad in Costa Rica and Argentina with GW Latin America, I know better than to set expectations. Its not that my experiences fell short of my expectations (quite the opposite in fact), but rather the experiences were far from what I could have imagined. Sure, I expected to go hiking in Costa Rica; I had not anticipated gliding above its forests on a zipline. I expected to go to some tango performances in Argentina; I did not know that I would participate in the country's interactive entertainment. 

In fact, one of the first tidbits of advice our Argentine program director imparted on us was to immediately drop all expectations. The Argentines do not hold expectations, he explained, not the way Americans do. In a country that as only escaped from the grasp of authoritarian rule in the past 30 years, where the currency's value is constantly in question, and where industry depends upon foreign investment, the Argentine people do not dump all of their hopes into expectations. Instead, they focus on the joys of the present and remain unflummoxed when all does not go as planned.  Essentially, the Argentines have a penchant for making the most of the unexpected.

I like to think that I have adopted a bit of this open Argentine ability to roll with the punches. Some of my most beautiful experiences abroad thus far have been the result of a wrong turn or a missed bus, and I would not trade them for any of the expectations I had at the beginning.

Argentina and Costa Rica were not the countries I had imagined before arriving. In fact, they were so much more complex than I could have ever conceived, full of cultural subtlties and unspoken norms. Thus, I learned studying abroad what I could have never picked up in a classroom. I cannot wait to learn from more experiences. Maybe this notion is the only expectation that I'll carry with me this semester.

And so I'm off! I've got my backpack and open mind in tow, but I've left the expectations back at home.

By DandyLion

As my long, extended study abroad experience comes to a close - the semester here started at the end of July/the beginning of August - work at LBV has settled down a bit. The last month or so has been filled with the same old, same old, but as LBV grows and hires more interns and employees, it isn't quite as overwhelming as one might imagine for a small, local tourism company. The good part about the bit of research I was doing in obtaining information about popular lodging was that even if the office was full and computers therefore occupied, I could continue the online portion of that research from home! GoogleDocs is really a handy tool that LBV definitely utilizes in the best ways.

I would say that this was also a challenge - the office being so tiny, finding workspace where everyone is situated has been a little speed bump recently. Scheduling becomes very hectic with so many employees doing a plethora of jobs in every aspect of the company - from the mechanics to the receptionists to the walking tour guides to the biking tour guides to the vineyard tour guides and between the administration and business that comes with the upcoming summer travelers - not to mention the recent presidential, senate, deputado, and other official elections here in Chile - it is sometimes easy to get lost in the masses! The work I had been doing in the maintaining of good relations with the hostels and hotels is definitely not overshadowed as it is an integral part of keeping a good customer base, but sometimes finding new avenues and ventures tends to not be the primary focus.

The most rewarding part of being a part of the LBV team for me I think is the feeling that even when I am not present, I am still guiding and directing people to the office to take advantage of all of the wonderful tourist opportunities that the company offers. Whether it is between perhaps family members, friends, other visitors, or locals here from the city, it is really neat to be able to feel like a part of something here, especially considering Santiago is such a great place that I can see myself returning - even after the upcoming semester in which I have decided to stay and extend my study abroad experience! The impact may be fleeting in the sense that tourism is not exactly a permanent state of location; however, the efforts made at LBV can't be undermined and I will continue to advocate for them regardless of where I am!