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Month: October 2014

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By makenadingwell

“I know, it sounds weird. I thought I would want to skip it, but trust me. It’s the best thing the group does, I swear.”

I was hesitant. The former GW Madrid student seemed oddly enthusiastic about it at orientation, but how exhilarating could a burro excursion really be? It sounded a bit overhyped.

But there we were, an hour outside of Madrid and strapped atop donkeys strolling along the hillside and it was hilarious. The eleven of us looked ridiculous and very out of our element. It was a cold fall afternoon and we were all bundled heavily in anticipation of rain. The young man leading us in front wore a thin t-shirt on the other hand, and carried a cat in one arm and the reins to the first donkey in the other. He occasionally looked back at us with a bemused expression as we squirmed while passing large puddles or sharp turns. We were definitely not modern day Don Quixotes.

For an hour we wandered down the path, passing horses and cows and patches of dense trees. The shifting clouds changed the light in the valley and the strong breeze reminded us of our distance from the city. At first we were all lively, laughing and competing to get to the front of the pack. Each donkey was stubborn, determined to either not let another pass or determined to eat plants along the way. Some students shrieked with every sudden movement, but slowly we all grew quiet. Perhaps because it became colder as the far away storm crept closer, or perhaps because we settled into the stillness of the environment. It was so far from metropolitan Madrid life and somewhat demanded a more serious, meditative mentality. As we drew closer back to the cabin we started from, the breeze picked up and it slowly started to rain.

For the next two hours we huddled by the fire, assembled along a long wooden table, and feasted on Spanish tortillas, steak, chorizo, morcilla (blood sausage), stew, and much more. Everyone collapsed and fell asleep as we drove back to the city through the storm. As I started to drift asleep I thought to myself what I’d tell the next GW Madrid students about the burro excursion. It sounds weird, but trust me, it's the best thing the group does.

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By Hannah Radner

From the moment I knew I wanted to study in London I have imposed judgment on myself; judgment for choosing a country whose official language is English when I have studied French since the sixth grade. For a while assumed I would go to France to study abroad. Judgment for choosing a capital city not unlike the one I study in at home (they are more similar in nature though vastly different in size). Judgment for choosing a university that, in the grand scheme of things, is not worlds away from GW. There was always a voice in my head that tried to make me doubt myself, telling me that in order to make a study abroad experience worthwhile, I had to make things as difficult for myself as humanly possible and go to a place where I would actually get a healthy dose of culture shock. Obviously it didn't work, because LSE was the only program I applied to and really wanted to do, and now that I am here I am a. glad I went through with it and b. void of regret. As it turns out, while it is a first world city (arguably the most first world city in the history of first world cities), London can still dish out some culture shock in the form of "Things I Take for Granted at Home and No Longer Will" and "Things the USA Should Have But Seemed to Have Gotten Lost in the Shuffle of the American Revolution."

Things I Take for Granted at Home and No Longer Will:
1. Uncomplicated Traffic Patterns. I walk everywhere I need to go within a certain radius. It becomes clear on day one that pedestrians do not have the right of way while walking in the crosswalk. Jaywalking? Don't even think about it. They drive fast enough even in the most congested parts of the city that nothing will save you if you get in the way of a vehicle. This includes cyclists. They often have their own lanes (if not, they have to share with the buses, which I suppose shows that they don't really care about the cyclists' lives either) Wait for the walk signal or die, basically.

2. Clean Air. I'm not talking about the city pollution levels. I'm talking about cigarette smoke. This year abroad is going to take a chunk out of my lifespan because of all the secondhand smoke. Everyone does it. Take a random sample of Londoners in any area and I'd say at least 80% of them are smoking or will probably light up in the next five minutes. I will only ever tolerate (barely) the smoking culture here.

3. Easy Public Transport. Boston's system is easy, especially for me: I get on at Riverside and I take the D line into Park Street, Government Center or Haymarket. Then I stay put or walk where I need to go, as nothing is really that far away. Boston is small. DC's system is even easier. 5 lines, clearly mapped out, I know where I need to go. If you really put your mind to it and you have enough time, patience and energy, really anything in DC is walking distance. London is a behemoth. The Tube map, though not necessarily difficult to understand, reflects how expansive the city is. There are a lot of buses that go to a lot of different places and only run at certain times and then you have your night buses and buses with 24-hour service and some only come every 20-30 minutes. How am I getting home? Do I take this bus or that bus? The tube? Do I have enough cash for a cab? Does London have a Cash Cab? Whatever happened to that show? Whatever happened to that guy? Was that my bus that just went by?? UGH.

Things the USA Should Have But Seemed to Have Gotten Lost in the Shuffle of the American Revolution:
1. Real Honest-to-God Bicycle Lanes that keep Cyclists in Check. If I had a dollar for every time I have almost been hit by a cyclist who doesn't obey traffic laws in DC, I'd have enough money to buy myself a nice bike and use it the right way.

2. Food Compost. I'm a hippie and I think composting is great. At least in LSE buildings, they have multiple separate waste receptacles: brown for food scraps (yay compost!! feed the worms! make new dirt!), green for mixed recycling (with a separate little thing in which you may pour out your liquids), and black for general non-recyclable, non-compostable waste. My kitchen came with three recycling bins, one general trash bin, and a little caddy for food waste.

3. WiFi Everywhere. It is difficult to go somewhere London and not find a place that has some sort of free WiFi. I am on the O2 cellular network, so I have access to all O2 hotspots. There is a network called The Cloud, which is not great for surfing the web but useful when trying to get in contact with friends. My campus has eduroam, a fact I was delighted to learn because I can log into the secure network using my GW info - yes, it's here, and it works. It is near impossible to find free, functional WiFi in DC. Thank goodness we have it here so I can write my blog posts beyond the confines of my bedroom if I so chose.

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By bbarfiel

The most pressing question that I got when I first arrived in Milan was “Why study in Italy”? Honestly, I really don’t know. I mean it’s a combination of things, but there wasn’t one selling point that sealed it for me. First, the most important (for me at least) was the food. I mean, who doesn’t like Italian food? Secondly, there are endless amounts of places to visit from Milan, Venice, Florence, Pisa, Cinque Terra, Sicily and Rome. Lastly, the clothes! If you really know me, you know that I have always had a passion for dapper dress. Milan is definitely a place to allow my fashion sense take its course. Oh, I forgot to mention the beautiful Italian women!

However, not everything in Milan is as sweet as the gelato. I definitely have my share of rocky roads while studying here. When I first arrived in Milan, I requested to stay with a host Italian family for 10 days with the intention on renting for the duration of my study. They were really welcoming at first, but started to distance themselves from me by day 3. I wasn’t shocked when they explained how “I was lucky to stay with them because the Italian people can be really prejudice”. While this maybe true, they definitely didn't make me feel at home. On day 5, they asked me if I wanted to stay, because a family friend from Venezuela was coming to Milan and needed to know if he could rent my room. I told them that I was more than likely going to stay with them because it was too difficult to find a flat in Milan for less than one year. The next day, I went to discuss the details of my stay and what they expected from me. When I approached them, they spoke in Italian for a while. I could clearly tell something was wrong. The two sons got into a big argument, and one stormed out of the living room. The other son was irate but tried to assure me that nothing was wrong and that I would get the room. By the time the owner of the house (his mother) arrived home from work, I think things boiled over. She doesn’t speak English, but I knew that she was trying to calm her sons down and figure out what we would do. ...continue reading "Evolving Identities"

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By anuhyabobba

If you are planning to study abroad in Buenos Aires, here is your guide for some inexpensive places to eat at (in no particular order):

1) Pollo Trak: This is a chain restaurant, and so you can find several locations for it throughout the city. It is a heaven for chicken lovers. For 45 pesos (or near 4 dollars), you can buy a massive fried chicken sandwich with a side of fries that will keep you full for hours. You also have the option to buy a 1/4 chicken or 1/2 chicken, similar to Nando’s in DC. Essentially, for its cheap prices, the portions you will be receiving are massive and also the food itself is delicious.

2) Pekin: If you are craving Asian food, Pekin is where you need to be. From fried rice to curry chicken to more typical Argentine food like asado meat, you can pile on as much as you want and your bill will most likely not go over 50 pesos (or near 5 dollars). There is also an extensive salad bar, if you decide to opt for a more healthier option.

3) Taragüí: Do you like empanadas? Taragüí offers a wide variety of empanadas to choose from but also at a cheap price -- 11 pesos for one empanada (or near 1 dollar). Despite being inexpensive, the empanadas taste heavenly and are prepared within minutes for you to start eating.

4) Club de la Milanesa: This is a bit more pricey than the ones I have listed before, with the typical meal here costing around 90 pesos or near 9 dollars. Club de la Milanesa specializes in the typical Argentine dish of milanesa. Milanesa has Italian origins but is essentially a thin slice of meat (normally beef or chicken) covered in bread crumbs and fried in oil. The restaurant offers variations of the milanesa and has become one of my favorite places to dine. I normally order the -- wait for it -- Americana pollo, which is chicken milanesa topped with grilled onions, bacon, and a fried egg. For me, it is a taste of home at a relatively cheap price. I never finish the portion I receive, so it essentially makes for two meals.

5) Smeterling: While Smeterling is not where one goes for a meal, it is the to-go place for dessert. You walk into Smeterling to see a gorgeous display of cakes, cookies, and macaroons, and despite what you may order, it will definitely keep you coming back for more. One pastry here costs around 40 pesos (or near 4 dollars), while the cookies and macaroons are sold by units for around 10 pesos each (or near 1 dollar).

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By clairemac93

Unlike during my previous time living abroad, this time around I’ve been content to stay around the area of Stellenbosch more than travel around the region. Some of this is to do with mullah, but a lot of it has to deal with simply liking the area I’m in. However, something I also like a lot are my friends here- and one of my closest asked me to come stay with her in Johannesburg when the term ended. And if you know anything about me and my way of traveling, it’s that I’ll take someones home and a local guide over a hostel or hotel any day.

But that doesn’t come without sacrifice. In the small capacity in which I thought about my trip, I never ventured a guess at how long the car ride would be. Similarly, when I was told to be ready at 4am in the morning to depart, I failed to ask myself why anyone would want to leave that early. I think I might of even told myself at some point that my friend was simply a hardcore morning person. This was all in a scheme of lying to myself as to avoid admitting that it takes 16-18 hours to drive to Johannesburg. Additionally, what lies in-between Stellenbosch and Johannesburg is an abundance of nothingness, like driving 18 hours through the state of Ohio (for those of you who have had the absolutely thrilling experience of doing so). So much nothing, that if South Africa could export nothing, it would be the world leader in nothingness. It was to the point that I would point out when I saw a tree, or utter sentences like, “Hey, that’s a cool hill”. Nothing.

Johannesburg, on the other hand, would never be described in terms of nothingness. With large skyscrapers and huge shiny billboards, fancy cars, and fancier people driving these cars, its contrast to Cape Town did not go unnoticed. It’s perfectly cosmopolitan, and yet manages to mix an African flavor- in fashion, music, and food. Imagine a woman wearing a traditional African headdress and Dolce and Gabbana. That’s Joburg.

I’ll start off with those things I did which I would recommend, as I know Johannesburg is a fairly popular tourist destination. I’d recommend hitting up Oriental Plaza. It’s full of traditional Indian food and shops, and is a good place to stop and explore. We also had a picnic at the Botanical Gardens, which has a natural waterfall and hiking trails. I would then suggest the Cradle of Humankind, which is possibly the coolest museum I’ve ever gone to- with games to play and even an indoor boat ride, and is a testament to where humankind originally started. I would also hit up the Neighborgoods Market on Saturday mornings for some delicious local food, live music, and inspiring people watching (I saw three year olds hipper than I’ll ever be!). Surprisingly what I wouldn’t recommend would be the Apartheid Museum. For a museum so important to this country’s history, its exhibits are poorly up kept.

The most memorable part of my trip was visiting South Africa’s most famous township, Soweto, or South Western Townships. After a scarring experience visiting Gugulethu, a township outside of Cape Town, in a huge bus where it felt more like visiting a zoo than experiencing a lifestyle, my friends and I made sure to visit Soweto with as much respect as possible. We found a local woman, Angie, whose a retiree (or pensioner, as South Africans call them) locally from the township making some extra money by showing visitors around Soweto on foot. Set off as just my friends and her, we spent morning til evening walking the streets, meeting her neighbors, riding from district to district via mini-taxi-bus, and still seeing the tourist sights but in what I felt was a more intimate way. Its important for me to show my respect in whatever way I can. I think to sit on a tour bus of places like this make it seem as if you are afraid of the population outside the bus- that you want to see the sights, take your pictures, and climb back in as though Africa is going to eat you alive if you stay too long. But to walk next to people, to buy a meal at a local shack instead of a touristy restaurant, to sit in a mini-taxi-bus crammed next to strangers instead of taking a taxi or renting a car, that’s showing respectful curiosity. And why visit if you aren’t truly curious?

Anyhow, during the day I was able to see where the Soweto Uprisings took place, Nelson Mandela’s home, Desmond Tutu’s home, and even Winnie Mandela’s current home, of which I could hear her television on. I visited a local daycare and saw Freedom Square.

All around, the trip was amazing. Alongside seeing some of what Johannesburg has to offer, I got to stay at the home of my friend’s family, eat homemade food, and sleep in a good bed. For that, I can be nothing short of thankful.

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By bevvy2212

I am proud to say that after being in France for 51 days, I have finally successfully done my own laundry…. Sad, really. (I am not an un-hygienic person, it’s just the previous times, my roommate did it for me, so this time, it was my turn.)

Two things that I have learned in life thus far regarding laundry services is 1) Don’t complain. 2) Don’t tempt fate. Back in high school, I complained about spending a dollar, think about it, a whole dollar, on washing and drying. So I waved my fist angrily at fate, I dare you to give me worse laundry conditions. And fate promptly gave me college, where I now have to spend three dollars on washing and drying. Again, I thought to myself, watch me tempt fate, because it can’t get worse than this. (Mind you, I said it in a sarcastic tone, so it shouldn't count.) But fate did not disappoint, it sent me to a public Laundromat.

To be clear, I’m a selective germaphobe. I might be messy sometimes but when it comes to germs lathered on the clothes that’s touching my skin? Unacceptable. Which was why I put off doing laundry for a while because hey, at least it’s my own germs, not the germs of the entire Paris city being swished around in a washing machine. But eventually I caved, hence the outcome of this post.

I took a suitcase to the Laundromat while dressed like a hobo, because I had absolutely nothing else to wear and a toga would be too scandalous. Laundry here is expensive! Depending how much clothes you have, you select the washing machine ranging from 3kg to over 10kg, and they differ in prices. First you put your clothes in. Then you remember the number of your machine and go over to the paying machine. You key in your number, and it will tell you how much to pay. You pay, then you return to the washing machine, flip open the lid on top and pour detergent into the little containers. Start the machine and voila. It might look simple but to be honest, it took me a while to get everything going, especially since when everything was in French. 60k education per year and can’t properly operate in a Laundromat, Greeaat.

The wait took about 40 minutes. I just took some work with me and sat around inside the Laundromat because I was too lazy to go back to my studio. The drying cycle actually took a lot less time than back at GW. It was one euro per cycle and the wait was 20 minutes. So after spending 8 euros and fumbling around like a fool, I now have clean clothes. Fresh like a bunny.

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By rbhargava

Earlier this week I realized all my classes will be complete by October 24th, which is unfortunately in only 12 days. Two more weeks of class and I’ll be done with my studies here at Stellenbosch. I’ll still be in the area traveling around until November 20th, but the close proximity of the end of classes means many goodbyes are soon to come, which deeply saddens me. I’m hoping the next two weeks of class will be the best yet, although they will probably be the busiest too.
Besides coming to terms that my time here is almost over, I had another excellent week highlighted by a Saturday drive around the Cape Peninsula, which included my third time going to Cape Point and my fourth time going through Simonstown. I’ve now visited Cape Point and the Cape of Good Hope more than most local students here, but I’ve enjoyed every trip there. This time, I went there with the same friends I went with on my spring break trip (with one person swapped). Thus the day trip reminded me much of our trip in early September, which feels like it was only yesterday. As the navigator for the day, I was pleasantly surprised by how well I have come to know the roads and regions in the area. More than ever before I feel comfortable here in Stellenbosch and have realized I’ve become more knowledgeable of many of the big attractions in the area than many South Africans who take these places for granted…just like any local would. I’ve been so lucky to have had such an opportunity to get to know the Western Cape so well, and am really hoping now to come back some day…possibly for a Masters degree or even a job.
Speaking of feeling at home, I’ve been lucky enough to make some amazing friends here, including an English South African who lives just outside Cape Town in a suburb called Claremont. After going around the peninsula, I went to her house along with another American friend for her 21st birthday party. The party was Under the Sea themed, and her house was beautifully decorated to fit the theme. I went with a pirate hat and an eye-patch, and over the course of the night got to meet many of her friends from both high school and Stellenbosch, as well as many of her relatives. It was a fantastic party, and in the end I really felt like I was a part of the community and everyday life here. From hearing stories and following along with friends who have been and are currently abroad, it seems like many never really go past being long-term tourists and connect with their host country at a deeper level. I’ve been very fortunate to have made such amazing friends who are from South Africa and have connected with South Africa so much so that I often forget that I’m only here for a small period of time. Study abroad by definition is a very temporary experience, but my goal is to come away with new perspectives as well as long-lasting friendships a relationships. As my trip comes to an end, I am starting to anticipate the challenges of going back home and retaining those perspectives and friendships while life moves on.

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By anuhyabobba

The colectivo is a blessing but can also be a burden. Colectivos are the public buses in Argentina and my primary mode of transportation from place to place. To ride a colectivo, you have to buy a SUBE card (the equivalent of a Smartrip). Colectivos do not accept cash normally, and if you find a colectivo that does, it will only take coins. So a SUBE card is a must and that can be bought at numerous locations like major post offices. The SUBE can be used for both the bus system and also the subway (but I rarely use the subway).

Numerous lines run throughout the city, and so it can be overwhelming when you first enter Buenos Aires to truly grasp the system. But, once you gain a hold of it, you become highly dependent on it and will come to appreciate how cheap of a method it is for transportation purposes. A typical ride on the colectivo only costs around 3.25 pesos (less than a dollar). I charge my SUBE card for around 50 pesos (or less 5 US dollars), and that will last me for the week. You can charge your SUBE at what are called kioskos here. Kioskos are mini shops that sell snacks and drinks and are also places where you can recharge your SUBE or your cellphone. Just look for the sign outside the kiosko that reads “Hay SUBE” and go on ahead. While taking a taxi in Buenos Aires can also be cheap, the costs compound after multiple rides and will eventually be where you are channeling a lot of money to unknowingly -- a mistake I made in the beginning.

The website many of classmates and I use to know which colectivo to take to reach a certain destination is this: http://www.omnilineas.com.ar/buenos-aires/colectivos/. It will map out which line to take and from where and also if you need to connect to another line after a certain point. It is tremendously helpful and saves the trouble of getting lost in what is already a massive city.

Colectivos run regularly on weekdays, but becomes irregular toward the night. The same can be said for the weekends for the most part. But, the one major problem everyone faces with the colectivo is that there is no said schedule. You honestly will never know when a colectivo will arrive at your bus stop. There are times where I have waited for 25 minutes to catch one, and there are times where one arrives as soon as I get to the bus stop. It is really up to luck, and that can become frustrating when you need to be somewhere at a certain time. Also, during rush hour, people will be crammed into the colectivos. Maximum occupancy does not seem to be followed, so people just come and come until either the bus driver decides there is no more room or until there is physically no way for another person to fit. In these scenarios, do what you would do in the DC metro. Front pack your back pack or hold tightly onto your belongings. The less careful you are, the more likely you are to be pick pocketed -- this logic holds in DC and in general big cities.

Finally, one helpful bit of information: you can charge your SUBE up to negative 10 pesos or three extra colectivo rides in case you are running low and cannot find a kiosko that will recharge your card for you in time.

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By clairemac93

I’m rather surprised that the subject of Tim Noakes would inspire me to write a blog entry. However, ever since I heard of the diet that Tim Noakes advertises I have been flabbergasted by how many people follow his plan here in South Africa.

The Tim Noakes diet entails eating no sugar, no carbs, but having a high protein-high fat diet. The people advertising the diet claim that new studies have shown no association between such a diet and things like high cholesterol or heart problems. Coming from a Western country, the diet seems nuts. I’ve seen TV advertisements here where they create a typically Tim Noakes meal in which butter on butter on butter is added and grease in encouraged. One thinks, “Who would actually follow this?”

Well, apparently a lot of people. In school, it seems as though everyone’s parents or they themselves are following this diet. Added to this, they are having results of massive weight loss. These success stories, like in the days of the Atkins diet, only spur more people to join.

It’s an appropriate diet choice for South Africans. South Africans love their meat, especially red meat, and tend to look at all vegetarians with a look of shocked curiosity. In fact, I know many South Africans who don’t consider it a meal unless there is meat on the plate.

There is also a huge market for dried meats, or biltong, as it’s called here, as well as dried fruits. This is out of the fact that in many places on the African continent, there is no electricity or refrigeration available. As such, they tend to dry most of their fruits and meats to reduce the flies and potential of spoiling. This became such a staple that even now that there’s refrigeration available- to some, dried fruits and meat are still a standard snack.

Anyhow, although it seems like a small cultural phenomenon, the diet of Tim Noakes is fascinating to me as it not only is catered specially to a South African audience, but is only an option for those who can choose what to eat and what not to eat- meaning predominantly whites. Meat is, all over the world, a luxury good, and most sugary items and processed foods are the staples of the lower income. A diet based purely off of vegetables and fruits, as well as meat and fat, is the most expensive dietary option that could be chosen here.

Though I myself would never start the diet, I’m curious to see whether the fad lives on and what the results will be. Truly shows a difference from the western mindset on diets!

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By marisalgado94

The theme of my abroad program is Public Health, Race, and Human Rights.  The past three weeks, we have spent a lot of time grappling with the idea of race, of how we identify ourselves, and of how that dictates our interactions with people in Bahia.  One of the biggest challenges that I have had to work through is that in Brazil, race is defined as being phenotypical- people are classified and also choose to identify by the color of their skin.  Brazil is a country where the majority of the population is Black.  Before arriving, I knew that many people were of African descent and that Brazil had the highest concentration of Africans outside of Africa, but I did not know that this group made up a majority of the country- 97 million people to be exact.  In Salvador specifically, 82% of people identify as “not white” according to the most recent census, meaning they either identify as being Preto (Black) or as Pardo (mixed race).

In Brazil, although Afro Brazilians are the majority, discrimination and inequality are prevalent.  Race and social class are extremely intertwined in Brazil and the lower socioeconomic classes are made up predominantly of Afro Brazilians.  Many advances have been made in the fight for equal rights for all Brazilians, but there is still a ways to go.   Because of the connection between race and social class, the lighter your skin is, the more privileged you are perceived to be.  The background of students on my program is extremely diverse: African American, Hispanic, White, Sri Lankan, and Indian.  What we have learned in our 3 weeks here is that our different skin tones have, whether we want them to or not, places us into very specific racial categories here in Brazil.  The racial makeup of Salvador especially has made us all very aware of the color of our skin.  If I am just walking down the street or on the bus, my dark hair and facial features allow me to pass as a Brazilian.  The interesting thing, however, is that because of my lighter complexion, I pass as a white Brazilian.  Being classified by Afro Brazilians into a minority group of elite in Salvador can be a bit weird; my identity in Brazil is no longer tied to being Mexican American like it is in the US, but to having light skin and the privilege that gives me here.

Our academic director, after debriefing our first three weeks here, asked us a question: “Did you come to Brazil to fix something, or did you come to let Brazil shape you?”  The Brazilian concept of race and identity reveals a lot about the history of the country: it shows the legacy that over 350 years of slavery has left, it shows how the Black movement has some uphill battles ahead, and it shows that the stereotypical images that most people have of Brazil- of football, Carnival, and happy people on beaches- is not the reality for the majority of people in Brazil.  In order to get the most out of my time here, I need to set aside my own world view and preconceptions and understand the lenses through which Brazilians, especially Afro Brazilians, see the world.  When I begin my research into health care systems, conduct interviews, and interact with people who have been marginalized in Salvador, I need to be sensitive of how race plays a very real factor in the kind and quality of access to healthcare people have. Instead of being uncomfortable with how Bahianos may initially view me because of my own skin color, I need to allow Bahia and its people to teach me things about myself.  I need to embrace cultural differences and use this time to open my eyes even more to the world around me.  My hope is that through my time in Bahia, I will gain a new understanding of my own identity and be exposed to questions that I have not yet had to wrestle with in the US.  I hope to get a new perspective on the struggles that people who face inequality and racism confront every day.  Brazil still has much to teach me, and I am open to learning.  I am ready to let Brazil shape me in a way that only Brazil can.  Three weeks down, twelve more to go, and I can’t wait for what they have in store.

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